M1152

Sorry to see it go… As you may remember I did my s223 the same week. I’m currently waiting for phase 2, the BASTARD. Off topic but thanks for the tip one the SSA Geissele AR trigger a few weeks back. Today was the maiden voyage for it. What a difference from the original M&P 15 trigger. I know you had the higher end Geissele but the SSA works great for me, I was very impressed with the results. For me that two stage action is much more natural than what I had in the original. Nothing new to get accustomed to, pull up play and bang right where you aim it...

@ Wojo - If the trade-off for quiet and less power is worth the higher cost to you that’s your choice. I think most people want power. I’m not trying to be discreet nor was I trying to exclude appliances and devices from generator backup.. It was obvious I have a generator when street is blacked-out and my house was lit up with my outdoor lighting. If I want to go online, watch TV, make coffee, cook, wash a load of cloths, turn on the heat or turn a light on in a dark room that’s what I’m going to do. I wasn’t going to go with lesser wattage and get into that I’ll plug this in now and use that later when I could run it all at once. In fact, during the outage I threw an extension cord over to my neighbor and he powered up his refrigerator and turned on a few lights in his home. Needless to say they were pretty happy and I still had plenty of power to spare. I never had any issues with B&S engines on mowers but we will see how this one does. If someone else that buys into that story that B&S “aren’t what they use to be” there are plenty of other manufactures to choose from with higher wattage. My point is suggested MSRP price or $1800 is allot of money for a small 3000watt unit. However if it is quiet you want that thing better sound like a mouse pissing on a cotton ball for that kind of money. I agree for an apartment 3000 is good but for a home, 3000 watts may come up short. Only you could choose what you need to run

@ Wojo - Sure the Tri-fuel kit for the Honda is < $200 but for those on a budget take a look at the suggested MSRP price for that gen, it is $2329.95. If that suggested MSRP is anywhere near the street price that is allot of money for something that looks to be only capable of 3000watts @ 120volts according to the specs on the link you supplied, there is no mention of 240volts. It looks like it could only produce 240volts if you connect two Honda(s) together so 2 systems @ $2329.95 each, I don’t think so. Looking at them I would not suggest those to anyone just starting out unless they need Super quiet and have deep pockets but if you already have an RV outfitted with dual Honda(s) then have at it. Those systems are clearly designed for small power needs like an RV's where space is a factor and you don’t want allot of noise. To power your home there are many better options with a single generator solution at less cost IMO. Edit: I did go back and look at the 360 view and it does look like there is a 240 volt receptacle, that said still not a bargain

speaking as a DIY....No one could tell you what to get as far as coverage without doing a site walk-thru. Those big companies are making a killing on folks at $30 + a month. If you are handy you could do it yourself but if you go with an installer ask he (or she) if the system they are installing is an “Industry Standard System” in other words could the system be monitored by any UL Listed Central station? More than likely the local guys will be installing an “Industry Standard Systems”. That is important if your monitoring company raises the rates and you want to have your system monitored elsewhere for cheaper when your contract is up. Those nationwide companies tend to use proprietary panels, that means their systems could only be monitored by them so if want to change monitoring services with a proprietary panel you would need to change your system as well. Ademco makes very nice systems that could be monitored by any UL Listed Central Station.

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Thank you guys, I'm not an expert just passing along my experience as a DIY. A few more considerations if you opt to convert. If you convert it is “suggested” you use Conventional motor oil with “low ash content”, synthetic oil is not recommended, more about that here from the Tech over in the US Carb fourm. Second you would need to decrease your spark plug gap to burn NG (or Propane). Lastly if you are in the market for a generator (regardless of the fuel) and if you like your electronics devices you may want to look for a generator that uses True sine wave which provides cleaner power, that was another reason I went for my B&S, it plays nice with computers and TV(s)

Nice find With a kit Tri-Fuel I have it is whatever you want to use. I could toggle between NG and gasoline all day long, I don't use propane but if I did I would have to change fitting or two and adjust the regulator Load balance Below is my 5500 watt B&S generator w/ self-conversation kit from US Carb and my Transfer switch install. On the regulator image that is the mount fabricated and welded-up to secure the regulator and keep it out of the way. I hung an eBay tach/hour meter off it so I could easily track oil changes, all that does is wrap around the spark plug wire 5 times. On the regulator the top ball valve is not required however if you switch back to gasoline you need to plug the line on the regulator so there is no vacuum. That is why I added the value on top, you could use a pencil or something to plug the hose if you go back to gasoline but that wasn’t for me. On normal NG (or propane) operation top valve is open. Behind the top valve handle is the Load balance to adjust your NG or Propane flow. That takes some adjusting to get that correct mix, a ¼ or 1/8 turn at a time. In my case I had to find the balance where the system starts on 2 pulls and don't run too rich. Too much NG going into the system will make your exhaust get HOT and turn cherry red. All fittings from the regulator back to supply were not part of the kit and purchased separately by me. I used ¾ inch 90, short nipples, shut off valve flexible gas line w/quick disconnect and some pipe hangers I modified for mounting NG fitting to Generator’s frame just to name a few items. On carb side image you could see the adapter on the carb and the extension spliced in breather tube. The carb adapter comes with studs that extend beyond the adapter so you could reinstall your air filter. On my B&S engine I had to remove the choke lever before moving the air cleaner housing, you may see the hole on the air cleaner housing in my image where the choke handle use to be… For those looking to get a portable generator I’d suggest shooting for the 5000 running watts range (or higher). If you start there you could add in a Transfer switch or later on and pretty much run all the essential circuits in your home IMO. With a Transfer switch (or Interlock) system you could tie right into your panel. Some people prefer the Interlock over the Transfer Switch. Take a look at the link I added, this guy does a Interlock install and provides a nice Transfer Switch vs. Interlock overview. He is a DIY as myself and does a nice job with his overview IMO. That said I installed the Transfer switch but I took his suggestion and installed emergency lighting near my panel so I didn’t have to screw around with a flash light during an outage. It was a fun project and glad I have it

Yes I do, the factory stock was a little clunky but like you said this is NJ. I may even leave the foam off, I seen the Ace stocks before on the Saiga(s) w/o the foam and always wanted to get one for my Saiga but never got around to it, may have to do it now....I probably will go with the extension and thicker pad, hopefully I could get them from the same vendor to save on S&H

Bishop, the Post Office delivers... I couldn't wait for the wrench, took you idea and went with the pipe wrench... leaving the foam off for now so I could decide if I want extension or not.... Thanks for your help

here's the other side... Union officials deny non-union utility workers were turned away from N.J.

I posted in another thread NJGF thread here, you may find this helpful..

I got my system at HomeDepot last year for Irene, they were taking numbers just like at the deli probably the same this year. Anyway I had no intention of returning my system but someone mentioned at HomeDepot (last year) that the gens were a one-way item, they were NOT taking returns on generators. I always wanted a gen anyway. After last year's storm when I got a few bucks ahead I installed the Reliance 8-circuit Transfer Switch Kit. FWIW I picked a B&S 5500 watt gen last year. My primary fuel is now NG, I converted my gen to Tri-Fuel so I could use NG/Propane or gasoline, it is nice to be able to go back if needed. My Tri-Fuel kit was about $180 so for those with gens already you may be able to convert if you are interested. Here’s where I got my kit, http://www.uscarb.com/ the website is cheesy but the kit does work nicely and they are a good folks to deal with IMO. I don’t know about the dedicated systems(NG/Propane only) where they drill out your carbs but I’m very happy with my Tri-Fuel kit, Lastly I'm sure the install would be fairly easy for most members here but does take some mechanically ability, for example I had fabricate my own regulator mount and perform some basic pipe fitting for the NG connection. This is not a complete out of box install. Some systems require cutting the frame (which I was not going to do) and/or moving the engine. Also you could be looking at voiding a warranty on new systems, YMMV

ships in 2 ~ 3 days... since I have a personal account with UPS I received several emails titled "Hurricane Sandy Causing Delays Along Eastern Seaboard" so may not see it for a while,assuming they ship via UPS. That should be our biggest worry... Anyway I ordered a wrench off eBay like this one made by Tapco, do you think that one will do it?

I ordered the ACE ARFX-E Entry Stock ... it's on the way, Thanks again!

Thanks Bishop, I will give them a call this week depending on how the storm goes.I hope to get it ordered by end of week or early next week. Thanks again for you help! Be safe out there to you and yours with the storm.

So at minimum I would need the ACE ARFX-E and locate the correct wrench. Yes, I’d like to save the old parts even if they don’t go back on. Looking at yours you do have the extension in place, so I just the question is with your new configuration with the ACE ARFX-E and extension is that about the same as the factory stock length or does your upgrade give you a little more length? For me a little longer (no jokes) would be good, shorter no good. Thanks again!

yours is the the ACE ARFX ? That is a complete kit so all I would need is a castle wrench correct? Thanks for your help!

I’d like to upgrade to the stock but need some guidance so I get the order correct the first time. I placed a few links below; the first link is what I used to identify my tube, this is child’s play for most of you but being an AR newbie I have to ask… I’m 99.5% sure my stock use the Carbine with the keyed tube for lack of a better term. In the second link from the AR forum another NJ guy ask the same question. Assuming that is answer is correct does anyone have any experience with that setup and is that a practical solution or would you do something different? Is the product in link #3 all I need or do I need additional parts and the castle wrench? http://ar15barrels.com/tech/stocks.jpg http://www.ar15.com/...c=bottom#bottom http://www.jsesurplu...kace-short.aspx PS More importantly Best of luck to ALL with the upcoming storm. These early storm models don't look good for the NE

Yes, that is nice! can you share your parts list for the stock? I have Sport and would like to mirror what you have done since we can't have adjustable stocks TIA

@ vladtepes -I understand, I admit the Saw grips are funny looking and even look uncomfortable but I don’t have a problem with them. the point was (unless I’m wrong) you don’t need to stick with the standard AR shape when you could buy any AR grip upgrade.

@ cguiro- Here’s an AR Grip , same as I have on my M&P 15 Sport so if it's a AR grip they require I don’t see why it the Tapco would not work here. I like the Tapco Saw grips, I have them installed on my Saiga(s) as well. Yes the upgrade I mentioned in previous post is pricy but **if I had it to do over again** I’d go that route however not going to redo it, I’ll just upgrade to the TAKD Bastard just to get away from what I have now and be done with it.

outstanding, very well written and to the point!

should be able to use a Tapco Saw Style Pistol Grip STK9201 for AR, correct? In fact I just picked one up off eBay for my M&P Sport for $12 shipped. I'll probably upgrade because don't care for the previous version with the Saiga mag release right there. Let someone else shoot your gun at the range and they will continue to use the original release as well. I've had mind since summer and I'm still pulling original Saiga release 50% of the time. For those that don't know on the old version the Saiga mag release holds in the adapter (and mag) and if you pull the Sagia mag release by mistake the whole works is now disconnected from the rifle, not good.

I have the previous version but this looks to be a slight improvement over the old version as I have, after poking around this one looks to be the best one with the BHO, If I had it to do over I'd go with the one from Defensive Arms, pricey but looks to be the best IMO

You would be correct, I did say that. Keep in mind after the AZ movie tragedy CC could have played politics just like the DEMs but when asked about additional gun control he made the said statement described above which was there are enough laws on the books. So from my view (me not being a big CC fan) his stock went up in my book but obviously that did nothing for you. Now on the other hand the DEM’s mantra is "never let a good tragedy go to waste" which is why we are having this discussion. That is right out of the WhiteHouse's Playbook by Rahm Emanuel