MandM

I see some USPs on the list... but no love for the HK45/HK45c? H&K makes some of the best hardware. I love my 45c.

I just found my last receipt for my last bulk purchase of 5.56 (back in March 2012). Natchez SS... 1000 rds. Federal XM193 - $299.95 + Shipping. Today... Natchez SS ... 1000 rds. Federal Xm193 - $399.50 + Shipping. Edit... just found my receipt for my last bulk purchase of .45 (April 2012)... SGAmmo - 1000 rds. Prvi .45 230gr FMJ - 299.95 Today... 1000 rds Aguila 230 gr FMJ... $297.95. I don't want this to become a political thread... but politics has GOT to be playing a part in the ammo prices, right? But why .223/5.56 more than .45? Because of the threat of another AWB? I'll be glad when the election is over, Sandy and the coming Nor'Easter are over and cleaned up, and life can return that that weird limbo we called "normal".

No competition... just experimentation... but my $0.01 on the matter: I have a Viridian C5L laser/light combo for my HK45c. Played around with it for... well.. still playing around with it, I guess. (Had it for about a 8 months or so.) I don't keep it mounted anymore. Or... if it's mounted for nightstand duty... it's set to "flashlight" only. The laser is fun at the range though. (Newer shooters seem to get a "wow... cool... lasers!" look on their face. But for new shooters I take to the range with me, I discourage it to focus on fundamentals.) Surprisingly... I do find it a helpful tool while dry-firing (snap cap) for watching my trigger control. Using a snap cap, aim the laser at a something on the wall and watch that blip of light dance. It's amazing how much you move even when you think you're rock steady. (First time I did it I thought I had the shakes or something.) For me at least, that seemed to encourage better physical fitness: grip strengthening, arm/shoulder strength, etc. (Then again, I feel any shooting drills or training, regardless if you have a laser, tends to encourage those things.) Again... as an alternative you could get that LaserLyte boresight/target thing for "home training" too. There are alternatives. TL;DR: Practical as a light, sure... but I might as well have just gotten a TLR-3 or something and saved some money. As a laser... it's not for me for more than just fun. I prefer regular sights.

I'll agree that shooting to wound is not a smart move. But as Wojo stated... it's only 1 beanbag round... lethal ammo follows. Not a compromise I would be uncomfortable with in his shoes. Heck.. even in my shoes. As to that 1 good reason not to use bean-bag rounds... Unfortunately Brian Terry was a border agent tasked with protecting the borders. Most of those "opponents" were people just trying to come to America. There usually isn't a need to employ deadly force to turn people back at the border. Unfortunately, this time his opponents were heavily armed and not just looking to immigrate to America. At the time, beanbags were probably not deemed hazardous to the officers.

I'm terribly sorry that my plan doesn't meet your approval. Do we even know each other? Do you know the layout of my house or my circumstances? The cold hard fact is that due to this such things as the layout of my house, more than one guns within pretty easy reach and my big over-protective dog... I most certainly have time to chamber a round before an intruder even begins to head upstairs to my bedrooms. Heck... I'm pretty sure I have time even if the intruder is Usain Bolt. And who said anything about hoping/letting the intruder leave? If he/she does leave, great... the cops can handle it. If they don't... I'm ready. And... since you brought up naive... who says all I have is one gun? Please continue playing semantics with the word "unarmed". I'm sure all the LEOs and lawyers and judges all see it your way. Also... "inferior projectile"? Really? Just because it doesn't kill someone it's inferior. Have you ever even watched someone get hit with a beanbag round? Go youtube it. Maybe a taser is inferior too huh? Not knowing the man... but knowing how a pump shotgun works, I sure if Wojo unloaded a beanbag round into an intruder... he'd have PLENTY of time to cycle to the next should he need it. And I can see a safety benefit. What if there's others in his house and in the heat of the moment he doesn't know where they are? Maybe he lives in a duplex or apartment where overpenetration is an issue... and legal implications. Maybe the thought of killing someone isn't something he takes lightly. There's plenty of reasons. I think people are answering your questions in the way they deserve to be answered. You're asking loaded questions geared to play toward what fits YOUR thinking as if we should all be asking you for how to do it right. Are you some super-secret-highspeed/low-drag-warrior that has any credentials saying that we should follow your tactical rulebook? Perhaps if learning is what you're after, you'd learn more, if you shat less on other people's info. There's better ways to ask questions...

I'm gonna follow the same principles outside my home (but still on my property) that I would use inside my home. If I have the time... no immediate threat... Assure that GF is secure, prepped and armed. Call 911. Report the important stuff (name, address, description of crime/persons involved if possible.) Leave line open, drop phone on floor/leave it with her (it's go time... need hands free). Warning #1: The Bandit (my dog of war). He's big and loud and protective of his pack. If you ignore him... you most likely have malicious intent. Warning #2: Loudly, verbally, warn intruders that I'm armed. Immediately follow with warning #3: Chamber a round. If those warnings are continually ignored... safety off, game on. Of course, this is a general plan all dependent on the proximity to the threat, and the crime being committed. If someone's breaking into my car... I'm it's a safe bet that I won't escalate to deadly force. (It might be an inconvenience, but I have insurance. And could probably use a new car anyway. ) If someone's coming after me or my girlfriend... I'm skipping all the other stuff and will worry about the repercussions later.

Now THAT, my good man, is thinking outside the box! Pelican case flotilla! I think I'm gonna outfit my Storm case with oar-locks.

I bought some about a year ago. Made some feet for furniture, a soldering iron rest, a couple drawer/door bumpers, bonded stuff like with regular epoxy... it's neat stuff. Has a nice rubbery texture, even after drying. When I bought it, you could only buy it from Sugru themselves. Don't know if that's the case anymore. My only advice is don't buy too much unless you know you'll use it in a short period of time. It doesn't have a very long shelf life. 6mos to a year at most, unsealed. All the stuff I had left over from my only purchase was dry and unusable in under 1 year.

Depends on what kind of base (if any) your RMR has... If your RMR has a base, then you just need a 45 offset rail... they're $30 or so at Midway to give you a ballpark. (Trijicon has one too... the RM55... it's $99. LoL.) If your RMR has no other mount than your ACOG.. you don't necessarily need to buy a base for it AND a 45 offset.... you can buy something like the Burkett (http://www.predatortactical.com/Burkett-OffSet-Mount-GEN-2-p37.html)

It should work just fine. You might be a little slower at first... but many people make ACOGs work for all aspects of shooting. But... you said you also have an RMR mounted... that could work in your favor too. Some people don't like the RMR up high (you go from a cheek weld to a chin weld.) Some put it offset with a 45 degree adapter. Some do away with it all together. Or... you can just run the RMR on it's own. If that's what you have... train with it. You'll get better. FWIW, I have a TA31H on my AR. I'm a happy camper.

I'm a medium guy with medium hands... and I find the HK45 and HK45c (and sort of by extension the P30) all fit my hand better than the USP does. After holding them all side by side, I ended up buying a HK45c. For what it's worth though, the USP doesn't feel uncomfortable to me at all.

My $0.02 (probably worth less than that but...) -Stripped lowers. There's a thread somewhere on Arfcom or one of the other forums that talks about how the majority of lowers are very similar and made by only a handful of companies... regardless of the brand. I've got a Spike's and bang-for-the-buck, it's great! Do I think you should go out and spend $400 on a Mega Billet lower... I don't think it's necessary. Spend the difference for more ammo or parts. -I have a 16" barrel with a comp. Plenty good enough for my use as far as reach/accuracy. I wasn't building a match rifle, or a 1,000 yd tack-driver. At this point, I think it's wise to look for and spend a little extra on the "buzzwords": Chrome-lined, cold hammer forged, etc. (Chrome lining for sure... cleaning is MUCH easier.) -Trigger upgrade (Geissele, Timney, RRA, etc.) is worth every penny you spend. (Geissele SSA here.) Once you do it, a stock trigger is instant junk. You'll never go back. -Longer gas system = slightly better recoil management. (Mid-length, rifle length... I have a mid-length. Very happy.) -Reliable MIL-SPEC components. (I don't think you really save all that much by buying commercial spec parts, so I don't understand why you wouldn't just buy mil-spec stuff.) -Keep it in good working order, clean and lube properly, especially if it sits for a while. Sure you probably want it to be reliable when the SHTF and it and you are getting knocked about, but that's no reason to neglect/abuse while we're waiting for TEOTWAWKI. Take care of it and it'll take care of you. -Spend a couple extra pennies per round on better ammo. Heck... spend a couple more pennies on everything. You're building it... so build exactly what you want.

There are plenty of mounts that say that your can attach and detach a scope with a minimal loss of zero. But I don't care if it's a $2000 machined chunk of unobtanium... chances are, it's shifted... even the tiniest bit. Ronald Reagan once said "Trust but verify." For any optics that I've removed and reattached... I always give myself a bunch of rounds to verify/readjust for zero before I am satisfied that all is back to normal. But generally... I just don't remove my optic.

I watched it. It was good fun... but I think it's all because Uncle Ted is Uncle Ted. If it was anyone else, I don't think I'd have had as much fun watching. That being said, Ted reminded me of a NASCAR driver after a race! <Ted takes a shot. Something explodes.> Ted says, "The Ted Nugent Blood Brother Hunting Ranch LaRue Tactical .308 PredatAR slinging Barnes 168gr all-copper VOR-TX bullets was runnin' like a top!"

When screwdrivers are outlawed... only outlaws will have screwdrivers! I think I'm gonna go stockpile some before they're banned!

My buddy wants that exact gun. Nice score!

+1 what raz said. My first thought would be to tell you to find something else. While this may be NJ legal, it provides no benefit, except making your Saiga a bit more stabby. There are plenty of decent brakes/comps out there that will provide functionality AND will be much less murky, legally.

Just curious... why are you opposed to pinning a stock?

I have a LaRue Tactical M.O.A.B. (My GF bought me the MOAB/i3200 case combo for XMas.) It's plenty big enough for a AR with a handle mounted optics. I know it's pricey... but there's cheaper versions. VooDoo Tactical has a couple that will fit for sure. Like: http://www.voodootactical.net/p-1095-40-multi-weapon-discreet-case.aspx or http://www.voodootactical.net/p-199-enhanced-voodoo-tactical-36-inch-molle-soft-rifle-carrying-case-padded.aspx

+1 When you know what the rifle will be used for... the right trigger is easy to pick. For instance, my last build was a jack-of-all-trades type rifle. I wanted a lighter/better than stock trigger. No more, no less. SSA was the perfect fit. Way better than stock. Much lighter, but not too light. (the SSA-E was a bit too light for what I wanted.). Next build will probably get a SD3G.

Whoops! Meant 6' (feet) not 6". (Silly "shift" key got in the way of my fat fingers.)

That's a great deal! Thanks!

Just about all of them.

Best kept secret... Clenzoil!

For the military... it does have a reason... generally our troops are carrying lots of stuff on their chest/belt (plate carrier, mags, camelback, radio, gasmask, first aid kit, etc, personal gear), or wearing a hardness or something. For our LEOs, there's different requirements (department requirments, or weapon retention priorities, for example). For us civilians, generally we'd be carrying for competition, training or CCW (in a free state), or even a mix of those, so it's another set of requirements entirely. It's mainly a requirements-based decision, but personal preferences play heavily. I'm sticking to my suggestion that you start with an inexpensive one (or even the modular type, so you can convert it to a belt type without "wasting" a holster) until you know you want it and like it.