Bully

Wilsons have a compound curve. The jig you bought is the one to use. Any questions I'd call Wilson.

Thanks raz-0. Much appreciated. Now that I've looked at them a bit I may swing for a PM2. We'll see.

For some reason I can't upload pics on here. Beaver tail is in. Ordering a new thumb safety. Harrison Design ignition kit is in and trigger track smoothed out. The trigger pull is smoother and more consistent pull to pull. I'm really liking the pistol. EGW oversized slide stop and extractor are going in next. Along with a new thumb safety. I fitted my mil-spec thumb safety on there for now so I can shoot it. Gunna run it with a CMC Power Mag/10 rounder at the next outing to see how she does. If it runs well, they will be my go to for the one or two competitions I shoot per year. After this it will be the sights. I may send it out for the sight cuts as I just don't feel up to the task yet on my machine. Having them cut will be a bunch cheaper than buying a new slide. Then I'll de-horn the pistol and have it 'koted.

Vlad, thanks for your responses. Much appreciated. I hope that if I am more specific that might help.... The Paramilitary is a good example. Why is it well over 100 dollars? What makes it (or any knife, really) worth more than 50 or so dollars? I realize that it's subjective and I would prefer to not bring custom/semi-custom/production customs into the mix here. This is a production knife that doesn't see my handwork so I am wanting to understand why it commands the prices that it does. Really I'm trying to justify buying one without saying as much.

Ok. But what makes them "worth it"? It's a thin bladed folder. If they were 50-100 bucks, I could see it. Anything over that is just too much for me. As for ZT, Chris Reeve, Hinderer et. al, it's a completely different class of knife. Most of them I wouldn't pay the money for, but a lot of folks don't understand why if I had the coin I would drop 3k on a 1911. I realize it's subjective. I'm simply trying to understand why that company commands so much for their knives at retail and in the re-sell world. C

Can someone enlighten me? They look like a nice little knife but the prices of them are just too high for me to understand. Same with a bunch of the production stuff, but the Spyderco stuff just seems... crazy. To me. The un-enlightened. C

For my money at under 1k, I would look at the Springfield R.O. Operator if you like rail guns. Really nice package and Springfield frames are awesome to have upgraded down the road(ask me how I know). If not, and you want traditional, the Mil-Spec is a hella pistol. Good luck. C

A week of vacation "Down the Shore" and right back at it. This is a ton of work! I'm trying my hardest to go slow and do it right but sometimes I just want to file til it friggin goes on there!!! Bah!!! Gonna take a break and hit it a bit more tomorrow.

The nut and bolt arrangement is a jig for filing the tangs to approximate dimension. The purple dye is "Dykem". Apply. Let dry. Install the grip safety. Wiggle it. Remove. File the high spots. Repeat.

Got started on the grip safety. I'm trying not to rush. I get so little time to fuss with this that it's difficult to not cram everything into one sitting.

Pistol grip on a semi-auto is a no-go afaik. Sorry. C

So, the plan was to start on the grip safety. However my local food emporium had one of my favorite bottles of wine on the shelf. I cracked it at 2pm. Working on a pistol is maybe not the best idea. So I'm not gonna do it. It'll wait until tomorrow evening. I also am gonna hit the range tomorrow morning so it's a good thing that it's a functioning pistol. At least for now. Buenos noches!!!

Grip safety came in from Smith & Alexander. It's about to get real...

Slab Sides, I've considered it but the disco is an easy replacement. The slide, not so much. Sothe consensus is: We'll see. Rob0115: please be careful in your use of the "G" word.

Not sure why I waited so long to do this.

Muchas gracias, Senor Escuela.

Crappy night last night. Work thing. I don't usually get bummed about work stuff but this one got to me. So, in light of that chose to back off fussing with the TS and instead just smoothed out the extractor. It's was sticking out the back of the slide by a bit so some files and sandpaper got it looking better. Still work to do but it's started.

I just got off the phone with Smith and Alexander. Ordered the grip safety. Should be here beginning of next week.

Thanks Vlad. I have both the 220 and 250 jigs for the grip safety. I just did my Foster frame so I'm pretty comfy chopping on a pistol frame. I actually like the spur hammer. If I can make it work I will. If not off she comes. At that point I'll replace everything with Harrison TR stuff.

I believe you are correct however I would like a better fit than the drop ins offer. I won't get it to Business End Customs level but it should be close to a factory fit. Thank you for the heads up.

I got a bit more work done on the pistol. I got the trigger in. No real fitting required however a trigger track stone is for sure in my future. The thumb safety I purchased is a mil-spec style. I thought it was a "tactical" style as I didn't read the ad very well. I snagged anEd Brown from my stash and used it instead. The mag catch is a Wilson. I banged my thumb up a while ago and the extended paddle really helps me when dropping the mags. So, I use it.

No. I'm going to cut the spur down so it works with a beaver tail. At least that's the thought at this time.

Thank you. I plan on it. I believe it's Smith and Alexander that makes a .220 that fits the Mil-Spec a bit better. I'll call them tomorrow and get the scoop. They're awesome to deal with and are, believe it or not, from NJ. C