Malice4you

Nonsense! Superman only uses public phone booths, not cell phones!

I always have my personal flashlight, currently an Olight M10 Maverick, on me. In my car is also stored an Olight i1 with spare CR123s. I also have a white LED panel that runs off the 12v aux as my work light (or emergency strobe if I want). I'm a fan of Olight and Fenix lights for good, relatively inexpensive flashlights. A Maglite LED flashlight isn't necessarily a bad idea either, and the C/D cell versions make a handy club if needed...however, I wouldn't get anything that relies on a bulb anymore, the efficiency of any bulb-based, battery powered light is terrible compared to LEDs. Also consider some kind of headlamp for keeping in a car, as you'll probably need both hands should you actually have to use a light stashed in your car or truck. If you get something that runs off AA batteries, get Lithium AAs - these will hold juice for supposedly 15+ years (pack I have in my desk here is "use by 2026") and they shouldn't leak like alkalines tend to after a while.

Living in a very hilly area full of curvy roads with a RWD car, I'm seriously reconsidering my stance that my 'winters' be high performance all season tires (Bridgestone Potenza RE970 Pole Position). Up until a few years ago, I lived in an area where I could get away with running all seasons in winter. The problem is, I cannot stand how crappy the grip is on the snow tires I've tried (Bridgestone Blizzak LM33) during the 99% of times I'm driving on them where there ISN'T snow on the road, which is why I have run all seasons for winter. I do have a 3rd set of [unused] rims, maybe I should get winters for the original rims for November-February, all seasons for early spring and fall for the 16"s I run for winter now, and then cherish every precious moment on those wonderful summer tires (Dunlop Direzza ZII) and rims during the summer... I'm always more worried about the other drivers on the road. I can drive in snow, and probably annoy people who think they are invincible in their SUVs; since I drive under the speed limit when there's snow on the road, and anticipate what's coming up on the road. I do however like to take every advantage of any benefits I can give myself while driving the car I have, while I save up for something more appropriate for the terrain around here. My guess is that everyone has to race out to the supermarket to buy milk and bread (and flashlights) for Snowmageddon ___, to beat out every other person in the tri-state area also out for the basic supplies they already have at home... If they have to hit 100mph in 3" of snow and ice to beat out everyone else, so be it...they have an SUV, so they don't have to be careful!

You don't own a knife until it bites you anyway, so you got that part out of the way already. Enjoy it!

The second you take a picture, you own the copyright for that photo (except certain cases where you are a photographer working for a company, that may be a work for hire where the company owns the rights). Your photo does not have to be registered to prove you own the copyright, but it can help in some cases, though I believe you may have a limited amount of time after discovering the infringement. (Some image hosting websites and contests can attempt a rights grab and claim ownership of the photo, or allow it to be used in advertising or for other uses, which is BS, but people still use these sites/contests. Most people click agreements without reading all the legalese crap...so they may not realize they signed away their rights to their own photos.) Images showing trademarks, images taken ON private property, and images showing identifiable people may have hefty legal issues if used improperly (such as in advertising) if waivers are not obtained. Images which are "newsworthy" have fewer restrictions, but one still can't go around ignoring copyrights. Use of a copyrighted photo, such as the one Shawn took, on a book is a pretty big no no...and IMO that person has opened themself to a serious lawsuit and pretty substantial fines/restitution. Reuse of a photo on the internet is just as bad, though often much harder to do anything about (finding the person responsible, if the infringement is hosted outside the US, etc) In the case above, I'm not sure what basis they could get a photo taken down. I haven't read up on this lately and my memory is fuzzy, but I'm thinking that as long as you're not slandering the artist and not selling anything using the photo, you're probably in the clear... Of course, it is almost 5AM and I'm sure as hell not a lawyer...

Why not? If it makes you happy, do whatever you want. It is yours, we are just strangers on the interwebs. I know it would drive me crazy...

Stainless will be slightly slippy compared to FRN/G10, but I've carried a Harpy, Volpe, Police, Dragonfly, and a few others that are stainless (and other slippery ones like the Nishijin R2 I'm currently carrying) in dress pants, khakis, and jeans of various thicknesses, and somehow I still have every single one of them. I buy knives with openers like the Spyderco hole because they are easy to get out and use one handed. You'll either have a short cord that won't allow easy use of the tool while attached, or a long cord that gets caught on everything. The clips, as long as they have proper tension, will hold a knife in your pocket...even a big heavy stainless model. It's your knife to do what you want with, but I have 100% faith in every removable clip Spyderco I own...and I've been carrying some since the mid to late 90's. Maybe you'd feel better with a Snap-It or Remote Release models...

If you insist on attaching a cord to it, which I don't recommend, I guess I'd suggest a very short cord and use a carabiner onto a belt loop... However, I've owned a LOT of Spydercos (73 or so right now), and the only times I've had them unintentionally come out of a pocket was when a cord on my clothing (think drawstring on a fleece) got under the clip then pulled the knife out when that cord then got caught on something else. The easiest way to lose a knife is something where a cord won't help, and that is to loan it to someone else...I've had people try to "forget" to give me knives back, so now I don't ever loan a knife to anyone... The clips on Spydercos are good, the Endura 4's texture will grab your pocket pretty well, and if the clip isn't tight enough, get a TORX (it's not an Allen key, at least none of my E4s are), take the clip off, hold the part where the screws go with pliers, and push the other end down so it will clip securely - don't overdo it or the clip won't seat properly... I will also sometimes angle the tip of the clip so it slides into a pocket easier. However, I only have to do this if I seriously screw the clip up by catching it on something and the clip gets bent, which is quite rare...

I've got a number of Craftsman 19.2v tools that have held up for me over the years. They are certainly not the best tools out there, nor do I expect them to be, but for the limited use I put them through, they are great. I once managed to pick up a clearance kit of 6 tools and 3 batteries for about $120 a while back, and I have been quite happy with everything I have. I now own around 9 Craftsman 19.2v tools and 7 batteries. A friend does a fair amount of building, and has the "professional" 18v Ryobi tools and those are quite nice. If I were starting over, I'd probably go that route, but I don't expect my Craftsman tools to break on me anytime soon.

I am looking for a relatively inexpensive scope for my Savage 93R17TR. It currently has a cheap BSA 3-9x40 Sweet 17 scope mounted with some decent rings...but I want a better scope and more magnification. I will only be using this for target shooting [paper] at ranges of 100(+?) yards. 9x is pretty much worthless for seeing a .17" hole on anything other than a pure white background, though I'm guessing my BSA's optics quality is also a small factor in this. I have to admit I prefer side focus scopes, not sure why, but I do. I also don't want anything smaller than a 40mm objective. The rings I have put my 40mm scope bell about 2-3mm above the barrel, so I'm hoping to avoid buying new rings. Lastly, I cannot spend more than $300-325 for this scope. I've narrowed my choices to these: Nikon Buckmasters 4.5-14x40 BDC Side Focus - http://www.opticsplanet.com/nikon-riflescope-buckmasters-4-14x40.html My first choice, most similar to Nikon 6-18x40 I have and love, good zoom range, has side focus, priced on higher side Bushnell Elite 10x40 Mildot - http://www.opticsplanet.com/bushnell-elite-10x40-mildot-target-turrets-argon-fixed-riflescope.html Shortest range, but no zoom should mean cleaner image and better quality, plus second cheapest. I just don't think 10x is enough for 100yds and .17" holes. That said, still my second choice. Leupold VX-1 4-12x40 ? Duplex, matte - http://www.opticsplanet.com/leupold-vari-x-i-4-12x40mm-rifle-scope-with-gloss-black-finish-and-duplex-reticle.html Leupold quality, shorter range, potentially most expensive in my list, no side focus, my third choice Bushnell Legend Ultra HD 4.5-14x44 Mildot - http://www.opticsplanet.com/bushnell-legend-ultra-hd-4-5-14x44mm-rifle-scope.html Decent zoom, side focus, will likely require new rings, higher end of pricing Nikon Prostaff 4-12x40 Mildot - http://www.opticsplanet.com/nikon-prosaff-4-12x40-mildot.html Nikon glass, decent zoom, lowest priced, no side focus Redfield Revenge 6-18x44 Accu Ranger - http://www.opticsplanet.com/redfield-revenge-6-18x44mm-rifle-scope.html Don't know much about the company, longest zoom, middle of price ranges I'm looking at, no side focus, likely need additional rings Vortex Diamondback 4-12x40 AO Dead Hold - http://www.opticsplanet.com/vortex-diamondback-4-12x40-ao-rifle-scopes.html Heard good things about some Vortex scopes, not sure if this is one of them, no side focus, higher side of pricing, shorter range Burris 4.5-14x42 Ballistic Plex - http://www.opticsplanet.com/burris-45-14x42mm-fullfield-ii-rifle-scope.html Again, don't know much about the company, only that I know of the name, longer zoom, no side focus, higher side of pricing, might need new rings Anyone have thoughts on my choices? Of course, I'm also open to other quality scopes. Any suggestions and comments are always welcomed. Thanks in advance!

What Gen? I never thought I'd really love my Glock, but I gotta admit that I do...I love my 23 Gen4. Now I want a G20 Gen4. Enjoy it!

The politicians have watched "In the Line of Fire" and know John Malkovich does an 100% accurate portrayal of what each and every gun owner wants to do. The only thing preventing all gun owners from assassinating everyone is we keep getting caught at the metal detectors. (And apparently Dirty Harry.) "CURSES! FOILED AGAIN! I'LL GET YOU NEXT TIME, METAL DETECTORS!"

The same place all kids learn about shooting - TV, movies, and most of all, computer games. Those were the first guns I ever got to play with... I believe specifically Wolfenstein 3D... I did also have Beretta 85? looking squirt guns, and a couple super soakers. I got into airsoft guns - first spring powered pieces of crap I bought out of the back of some magazine; the guns barely shot 15 feet, then "better" ones that shot 30 feet and sometimes even left a slight dent in a soda can, and now the high end ones I own now, with ranges of up to 75 feet on handguns and shotguns, and up to 325 feet on my most powerful rifle. A buddy from airsoft took me to a range in PA a few years later, and the first real firearms I ever got to shoot were a suppressed Beretta M9 and suppressed M4. I went and applied for my FID the very next day. The same friend is also responsible for my very first fully automatic experience earlier this year. Other than some quick help/tips from ROs and friends, I'm pretty much self taught. I'd like to do some real training, but money is always an issue... I have been responsible for introducing a few other new shooters, and reintroducing some old shooters...I always enjoy seeing someone else get as into the hobby as I am...

Are they silver certificates? I'd say look at the series date, then check on collector websites or ebay completed auctions for the values. I was never as big on paper money, as when I did coin collecting, I was a kid and could only really afford mostly...um...coins...(though I do have 3c, 5c, 10c, 25c, and 50c bills) There are books for coin values, I'm sure that there are books and online guides now to get a fair idea of values.

Looks sexy. I like it. I would still want an AICS first, but this...I could be convinced to add this to my collection at some point in the future...

I got mine as new old stock on gunbroker for under $400. I love the rifle, extremely accurate, and ammo seems to be becoming more available. I've had good luck at Dick's, compared to one place which tried to sell me .17HM2...It's kinda funny seeing how tiny those holes are in paper... The rifle originally came with 5rd mags, so if you want to buy a 10rd mag, make sure your rifle's serial is 1158378 or higher. I found the mags on ebay, and I think I paid about $23, but I haven't looked since July/August.

If you bring it to a store that will buy cameras, the camera itself will get you maybe $1-10. Lenses, depending on what they are, might be worth something as long as they are all autofocus and Minolta branded. If you have a Tamron, Tokina, Sigma, Quantaray, etc branded lens or it is manual focus, then chances are the lens is worth next to nothing as well. Old film era flashes are next to worthless as most old flashes MAY DAMAGE a current digital camera if mounted directly on it. As has been mentioned, the Sony Alpha cameras can use old Minolta AF lenses. Kit lenses are not going to command much of a premium, but if you have some of the more special lenses, those could be still pretty valuable. If it is a zoom lens, a constant f/2.8 or some constant f/4 lenses will likely be worth money. If it is a fixed focal length, fast lenses like f/1.4, f/1.8, f/2 are likely valuable. (The only exception is a 50mm f/1.8 or f/2, which is likely a kit lens and therefore common, but always double check) The lower the f/ number (aperture), the more expensive a lens originally was. I believe it was Minolta that made a 500mm mirror autofocus lens, which is a rather rare and pretty valuable lens. If you do your research and find it is all worth very little, best thing is to see if any kids you know are interested in photography, they may have some use for it...Unless you develop your own, finding places to develop film will become an issue in the upcoming years, as local places are not getting the volume they need, and the chemicals are going bad, and it is not cost effective to run the equipment...not to mention it is hard to get replacement parts for the aging machines. You may have to mail the film out in the future.

I would LOVE to have an issued and FBI-marked gun, without the hassle of stealing one from an FBI agent's car (like someone did a few months back).

I just read about a fairly large department in the midwest dumping the Gen2 Glock 23s for Gen4 19s, (or maybe g2 22s to g4 17s?). Apparently the switch isn't costing them anything, department is trading in the old guns to Glock and getting $250 credit per gun, they're getting Blue Line (or below?) pricing, and a federal grant is paying for the difference. I got into shooting a few years ago. I've never bought into the "9mm is weak" belief, as I've done some research into what modern loadings can do. I may buy into the ".380 is underpowered" belief...but I will politely decline being shot by one... I've got 9mm, .40, and .45, and plan to add a 10mm, 5.7x28, and maybe .357sig at some point. I hope to never have to find how any of them do, but I would trust any of those calibers to stop someone.

/thread

the barrel <> mag tube clamp is a Nordic Components Benelli clamp. Fit and finish are excellent. If/when I get another Supernova, I will be getting another extension and clamp from Nordic. Their parts are a little more expensive than others I've seen, but completely worth it IMO. Believe I got mine from Mesa Tactical. The Mag tube <> flashlight clamp is some cheap nylon crap that the screw threads wore off after a couple hundred rounds. I resurrected it with a new, bigger screw and three nuts on my 'backup' HD shotgun. It has been solid enough for me after I improved the clamp..

Looks good. I've looked into cufflinks like these, that I have seen on ebay. I've also thought about making my own cufflinks, as well as a ring, using spent brass. That's on the list of things I want to do, but it's a long list of things I have to/want to get to... How'd you do the necklace?

Mosquito has a really terrible heavy DA trigger pull IMO, but perhaps I've been spoiled by my P226 and SP2022 and other DA pistols I've shot. SA feels just fine. I just pulled mine out and pulled the trigger a few times in both DA and SA with snap caps. Considering how rarely I shoot in DA, it doesn't really bother me. Properly broken in, a Mosquito should handle all high velocity (~1200+fps) rounds just fine, including Golden Bullets and Federal Bulk. I occasionally also run some Stingers or Agiula 1700fps rounds through the gun, and it likes them too... Only stuff that it didn't cycle is the subsonic stuff I wouldn't expect any semi to cycle. Muzzle flash from the Mosquito with Stingers is pretty impressive for a .22LR... The gun does like to be kept lubed up, and gets gritty (as all my .22s do with the bulk ammo I often run, but that's really the ammo's fault). Early versions had some issues, and they gave the mosquito a bad name, but a lot of people also do not break the gun in properly using Mini Mags. It's not a bad gun, but also not a great gun. I got it more as a gun for teaching females, but I have fun with it, too. There are cheaper .22s, but I am still pleased with the purchase. I'm not sure I'd do it again; I might save up twice the cost (or more) for the P220/P226/P229 Classic .22 models and mods to make them into worthwhile .22s. The ability to get a second (or third, or even fourth) caliber on one permit is worth the extra cost.

Most major manufacturers these days have to compete on price for some of their models, so there will be some made in China. While I'm sad to see it, I guess it is better that some people at least can afford to carry a knife that might otherwise not... I've owned a few of the Chinese knives (by Spyderco and others) and they are OK, but the US/Japanese/Italian knives I have are obviously far superior. My Kershaw 1595ALBLK (I believe it's a Speed Bump) and 1820BRN (Needs Work) are both US made.

I wouldn't be able to stand looking at my car with steelies on. I've always ordered a second set of rims for my car for the winter tires. For my Millenia, I had a set of the L model standard rims for my winters, and the rims that came with the car got the summers. For the Mercedes, I bought 2 sets of rims for winter and summer. And I still have the original MB rims as well...(so...13 rims for one car, including the spare...maybe I need to do a garage sale..?) Even brand new, I never spent huge sums of money on the rims, so if I had to find replacements, it's not the end of the world. So far, they have held up, even when I was forced off the road and into/onto the curb on two separate occasions. I know the Millenia had a strange offset, so finding other than OEM rims was a little more of a pain, but I'd check to see if other Mazda rims would fit. Usually base model's rims are sold off pretty cheap as people upgrade to bigger/better rims. I've ordered my replacement rims and tires for the Benz off tirerack.com - they may even have the steelies there for your car, I've never looked for them so I'm not sure. I like that tirerack tells you the method of manufacture for most of the rims they sell, since the cheapest methods are typically more prone to damage.