MosinRob

thanks for the post

I find it very very odd you get a crud ring after one shot, especially making it hard to load after one shot. That's a first for me. Wish I could help you with that one

Crud ring in my experience with a variety of bp subs in loose or pellet is from a lack of proper cleaning. People think cause subs aren't corrosive that cleaning until it shines isn't necessary. Also some crud rings are a ring of not only burnt fouling but also hard caked burnt plastic. I use mc #7. Works great for a inline with plastic sabots. I would recommend Blackhorn 209 if you have a 209 ignition in your muzzleloader. very very clean, consistent, and produces a lot of energy with less powder. For a sidelock, just can't beat good ol goex. If you want a absolute killer combo then get some cci 209 magnums, blackhorn 209, and hornady fpb 300gr. No plastic skirt. like a all copper minnie. Great for hunting. expensive for target.

Every rifle is different and everyone will tell you their version of the right way. For me, I swab every shot. Some guys I shoot with swab every few, some saw when they cant get anything down it. One guy I shoot with doesn't swab, he uses a bore brush with a quick once up once down. Now for my method. When you cant get a projectile down the bore you admitting the bore has changed in diameter. People will tell you they shoot better fouled. This is true to a extent. Now when you wait until it's real hard to push down the bore is tighter, then you swab a few and it loosens back up. What this does it makes for inconsistent groups in my logic and from what I have learned. Now by doing it my way and swabbing every shot, you are keeping the fouling soft and keeping everything the same for every shot. Consistency is accuracy. So when I go to a Black powder match, First thing I do is fire a cap to make sure she is clear from nipple to breach. Put the barrel right up to a leaf or grass and make sure it moves when the cap goes off. Next I take between 40-60gr on powder down the barrel with no bullet. I shoot that powder off. Now I swab it once and the bore is in the exact same condition as every other time I shot. Now like I said others will say not to and have other methods, you have to see what you like as well.

Laminate m38's and m39

Tula receiver and Izhevsk barrel

Pictures stayed small, wtf

I said i'd show a few and that's what I did

cop

error

I'll show some skin for you. Here's a few see below

electro pencil. yes its considered matching.

Thanks man. As much as I hate sportsmans guide that's a good deal

It depends on the person but to me, any modification makes the value go down extremely when talking about milsurp guns. To me there are plenty of people who ruin these rifles and then sell them so why ruin another. Just my opinion. But for a Romanian i wouldn't. Sell it and use the money on a gun that you can mod and not degrade value. I'll buy it too if you want to talk.

theres this route too http://www.wittmachine.net/

Any skilled smith can add one

Biggest handgun was A S&W 500. Center fire .45 colt. Now muzzleloader is tricky. .58 navy arms hawken but have shot a .69 cannon and in my 12 gauge muzzleloader I shoot a .714 round ball out of it.

I have one on my .338 and it's worth every penny in my eyes. A hunting rifle is really only shot a couple times so people just take the recoil. Also really helps on 12 gauge with 3.5"

Definitely a svt mount and scope so I'd say it is.

My Darton Pro3500 and towards the end of the season I might take the Barnett Quad 400 xbow

Nice. Hope you take some pics/video. Shoot straight

Thanks Dar Thanks man. Don't waste the money. Just text me and ill pick it up. still waiting on those pic's to try to help you out. Not on any rifles. Someday hopefully

They were imported mainly in the 50's. people bought them. So now you mainly get them second hand from previous purchasers

Scw were not refurbed. Not all scw had the all wood hand guard. It is a trait but not all had it.