bhunted

Which one you have... Thinking the p226 in 9mm Sent from John's iPad 2 via Tapatalk HD Typos courtesy Apple...

HK P30 9mm or Sig Scorpion Sent from John's iPad 2 via Tapatalk HD Typos courtesy Apple...

Don't like riding ****? Then find a female rider... Lmao... Sent from John's iPad 2 via Tapatalk HD Typos courtesy Apple...

I'm thinking the easiest way not is a cutting wheel on a dremel. Easier to control. You don't want a V though. It will come out. I need to draw the right way... Easiest way to describe what I mean I guess is take a triangle and cut he top half off.. It will leave like a reverse notch. Sent from John's iPad 2 via Tapatalk HD Typos courtesy Apple...

Just thought of something else we did years ago before sights were easier to swap out. If you had a decent size front blade, we use to grind out with a cutting wheel, an angled notch about a quarter inch wide or so... Then we'd mix a fluorescent type plastic or in this case, some epoxy to a heavy jell and push it into the slot. Once dried, file it down. Actually looked professional. Hard to explain it. I'd have to draw it. Sent from John's iPad 2 via Tapatalk HD Typos courtesy Apple...

Hmmmm, thanks for the tip... Sent from John's iPad 2 via Tapatalk HD Typos courtesy Apple...

Get on Foscam's email list and watch their site. They have good sales and package deals... Much better than buying one at a time if you decide to expand. But Wombat is correct. Not an expensive endeavor. Sent from John's iPad 2 via Tapatalk HD Typos courtesy Apple...

Go to the authors website. A lot of authors write software for multiple platforms.... Looks like they do... http://eggmantechnologies.com/products.html Sent from John's iPad 2 via Tapatalk HD Typos courtesy Apple...

By all means... I have no problem with that. Also, not trying to make it a security system. Never said it was. I have a hard wired security system for that. (Don't forget, I was in all aspects of the industry for over 20 years before I got laid off. Even longer in electronic technology...). But again, it's better than nothing if people cannot afford more. I do not recommend it as a first line of defense though. As I said, just trying to help people with he cam that asked me. Sent from John's iPad 2 via Tapatalk HD Typos courtesy Apple...

If you know how, partition it for about 500-750 megs or so. Make all settings point to that hard drive. Set up separate folders for each cam... Sent from John's iPad 2 via Tapatalk HD Typos courtesy Apple...

Should have downloaded the trial first. I believe in try before you if possible. What I like, others may not. Just take your time with it. It has tons of options and settings. Sent from John's iPad 2 via Tapatalk HD Typos courtesy Apple...

Yes to all these questions, except direct hookup to a DVR... Realize this... A DVR is not that much different than a computer. They both use hard drives for storage. In my case, 750 meg hard drive. Sent from John's iPad 2 via Tapatalk HD Typos courtesy Apple...

It's not about you not saying anything and your expertise is welcome. But only about these cams. You know damn well threads get thrown off topic all the time. I spent my time to try compile my info and experience with these cams after a few asked me about them. I do not want to turn this into a sales pitch for other products. I do not wish this to be a Foscam bashing thread. I do not want any "my system out ranks yours", etc. I do want it to stay on point. So if anyone has experience with these or their technology, feel free to chime in. Otherwise... Sent from John's iPad 2 via Tapatalk HD Typos courtesy Apple...

Lmao.... Sent from John's iPad 2 via Tapatalk HD Typos courtesy Apple...

I knew this would make you edgy Nick... I'm sorry, but these are a little more than just looking at my deck. With software, proper settings, location, etc... They work. As was said, there is nothing better than a good hardwired system with dvr... But at the low end of the spectrum, these work fine. My length of time I'm using them and their consistency to perform for me prove that. Nick is right somewhat, but this is NOT what I want this thread to become. A discussion of what is better. It's an information thread about a specific product. Please do not turn it into something other than that. A few asked me about them, so I took the time to start this thread. However, feel free to start up a security cam thread separately... Sent from John's iPad 2 via Tapatalk HD Typos courtesy Apple...

Nah...... ok.

Really? What's so amusing? Been using these for years. They work! They may not be the best, but they are better than nothing and well affordable and easy for anyone to install. So before you say there are other alternatives which we all know how you feel about cameras, this is just an information thread...

Hell, after $7K, what's another $800... I'd let them do the whole thing... Great.... Thanks for sharing... keep us abreast..

Wow! Pricey... Too bad they don't offer white glove service. What type of surface you putting it on? 1K+ lbs is a lot of weight in a small space for somewhere in a common home. On concrete floors in basements or garages is one thing, but I'd rather have any safe easily accessible on the first floor rather than run down a couple flights of stairs...

I will NOT say anything nice about Wayne... They are Nazi Arseholes with a capital "A"! They make up rules as they go along. Head over to Lodi or somewhere else. Every time I go to Wayne, I come out pissed because of their ignorance and stupidity... FOOK THEM!

Where did you get it? I can't find it anywhere online so far.... What do those buggers cost?

If you are lucky to work for a company with that mind set, that's great. Pretty sad... but most of the engineers I can only imagine are straight out of school. Out of everyone in my office, there were only a couple techs with diplomas in anything. I was one of them. Most of our management new nothing. The engineer I worked with was as you described. Reason why we both got along with each other. Hell, most of my guys didn't even understand the resistor color code other than what few resistors they needed in the field. I just wish there were more engineers that were seasoned from the bottom up. Same with techs too...

Found this on their page regarding fire rating.. Busting The Myth Of Fire Ratings Arm yourself with the facts-Important things you may not know about fire ratings. We believe an informed customer is the best, and often happiest customer in the long run. When armed with all the facts, we can make truly educated decisions about which products will be the best fit, and provide the most value over time. Most mid to upper level safe companies boast impressive-sounding fire ratings that ensure protection for (X) amount of time with (Y) outside temperature, not to exceed 350 degrees inside the safe. However, these ratings are often deceiving due to the methods by which the safes are tested. As it stands, there is no standard set of tests specifically for evaluating the fire resistance of a gun safe. In fact, most companies use different private testing organizations to evaluate and assign fire ratings to their safes. These testing procedures often vary, and are exclusively based on how well paper documents resist damage as ambient temperatures rise. The problem with this approach is that most people incorrectly assume that paper in a safe will burn before a gun. This is not true. Since steel and other metals "gather heat" much more easily than paper, guns and other valuables will heat up more quickly and reach higher temperatures than documents in the same amount of time. You might notice this principle the next time you go outside to pickup the newspaper from your driveway on a hot summer day. While the hood of your car is too hot to touch, you can easily pick up the paper and carry it inside without any discomfort. It seems to go against logic, but it can all be explained by the scientific principle of Specific Heat Capacity. When a safe is in a house fire, it acts like a huge convection oven – the fire outside the safe heats up the air inside the safe which, by convection, transfers heat to the firearms and valuables stored in the safe. How quickly your valuables become damaged by the fire depends on three things – the temperature inside the safe, the burning or melting point of the various materials that make up your valuables, and the specific heat capacity of those materials. Specific heat capacity is the amount of heat required to change the temperature of one kilogram of a substance by one degree. In other words, the higher a material's specific heat capacity, the more heat energy is required to raise the temperature of that material. Specific heat capacity is extremely important when taking into consideration the fire-rating of a safe. The paper document used in a typical fire-testing procedure has a specific heat capacity of 1.4 (Kcal/Kg °C) and an ignition point of 451°F. By comparison, aluminum, steel, gold and silver have much lower specific heat capacities of 0.91, 0.49, 0.13 and 0.23 respectively. This means that the steel barrel of your rifle or aluminum casing of your scope will heat up a lot more quickly and easily than any paper document in the safe. With an ABS plastic gun stock melting at 221°F and wood solids starting to break down at around 575°F, you can image how quickly a gun can become ruined under heat conditions that would cause little, if any damage to a paper document in the same safe. If companies began fire-testing their safes using guns and other valuables as the standard, rather than documents, they would find that conventional fireproofing does little to prevent the safe's contents from being quickly destroyed by a typical house fire.

Wow! These buggers are over 1000 lbs? Holy crap! http://youtu.be/cIWm-wwxRqc

Awesome... Check out their website. Has a good animated shot of the safe... http://www.pendletonsafes.com/