maintenanceguy

Always by scientific study and mathematical formulas which are saved in some file and archived forever. This protects the decision maker from ever being responsible for any decisions made - he just followed the forumla. Of course, the study method and formula are designed to give any result you want it to.

If you're going to do this, get a lawyer involved. These types of agreements aren't always enforceable. You need to be able to demonstrate that you have somehow actually had a loss in order to collect for that loss. That's why these clauses are called "liquidated damages". You're claiming damages which you are being compensated for. In court, the contractor's lawyer will ask how you calculated that your damages were worth 5% of the contract price each day. On a commercial job, each day you can't use your property is a day's revenue lost. In residential work it's much harder to prove. And be careful. Do you want the honest contractor who has a legitimate delay from his supplier substituting something cheaper or wrong so he doesn't loose his whole profit on the first delay or are you willing to wait a couple of extra days for the right material to be delivered?

I was a contractor for several years and I currently manage the buildings for a large organization and hire contractors dozens of times every year. Never choose the contractor based on price. Good contractors are competing with the guy who builds 1/4" luan doors with Velcro latches. It's impossible to do a quality job if you have to beat the Velcro guy on price to get a job. A few contractors have decided not to do that but they are twice the price or more than the velcro guy. They will spend 5x the money on materials for the right doors and 3 x the time building the doors. They have to charge you much, much more. When you call three contractors and tell them that you're getting multiple quotes, the contractors with high standards tell you their schedule is too full. They know they don't have a chance of getting the job and keeping their high standards. Because these contractors are competing on price alone, there isn't enough money in the budget to survive. They have to leave your job half way through to start another job to get the first payment on that job because they need groceries. The solution: Find a great contractor and pay him what a great contractor costs. 1) Find a contractor based on a recommendation from a friend. 2) Hire that guy to do the work, don't hire based on price. 3) Tell your contractor your budget up front. Let him help you design your project to your budget. Get as much project as you can afford at the quality you want. There will be compromises between the size of the project you an afford and how good the work is. Your contractor will help you make those decisions upfront. 4) Have a complete and clear scope of work that includes the manufacturer and model number of the door latches and a sketch of what the doors will look like. And just to keep everyone focused on your project: 5) Make sure you're making progress payments as work is progressing. A milestone is met, you write a check. This keeps them interested. 6) Remember the 80-20 rule. The last 20% of the project takes 80% of the time. Structure your payments accordingly. If I have 80% of a project left to do and can expect only 20% of the cost to be paid, I'm tempted to go to another job and get the first payment. Remember that this rule is for the labor portion of your cost. Material costs are almost all in the beginning. I recently volunteered to manage a small construction project for our church. We had a clear scope of work and held a sealed bid based on that scope of work. We only sent an invitation to bid to a few select contractors and told them that price was not the only consideration. The lowest bid was $375K. The highest was $560K. We ended up hiring the guy who bid $450K. We got a really good project from a really good contractor. I am personally familiar with the contractor who bid the highest. His work is amazing. His clients are always left thrilled. He sticks around as long as it takes to make everything perfect. He is never in a hurry to get to the next job. We didn't hire him. We did get a good contractor and got a really good job but not an amazing job. We can live with really good. If we had hired the lowest bidder, it still would have been okay. We were careful who we invited to bid. But it wouldn't have been as good. You usually get what you pay for.

Thank you for the heads up. .22 ammo may be back but these have been hard to find. I'm down to my last box of 100 on these. Just got 5 more.

Got mine using a UT ccw.

I'm curious if a ccw is required too. I read the NH law that seems to apply and it looks like the law does not require any ccw but I'm not at all familiar with NH law and certainly could have missed something. Waiting for someone who applied using NJFID to share the outcome here.

As I understand PA law (I've been wrong before): It's legal to carry open in PA without a permit everywhere except for in "cities of the first class". Philadelphia is the only "city of the first class". So you can open carry in PA without a permit but not in Philly. If you have a carry permit that PA recognizes, you can carry concealed everywhere - even in cities of the first class. So, a NH permit is good in Philly. With a recognized permit, you can even open carry in Philly - but that has resulted in some harassment by the PD in the past. You can carry in a vehicle in PA with ANY carry permit but you can't get out of your car unless you have one recognized by PA. But be careful. PA still has some places you can't carry including: Courts, federal buildings, state parks (except in a vehicle so you can drive through but can't get out and hike with your gun), and secure areas of an airport. You may or may not be able to carry on school property. State law says no unless it's for an authorized school activity or "other lawful purpose". Is self defense a lawful purpose? The only reason I mention the last one is it's pretty easy to end up on a school property when driving in unfamiliar places.

Tecnhically, a warehouse isn't a "dwelling" so there's no rule about how close to one you can hunt. You should be able to hunt rats inside of one. Assuming you have a rat stamp on your hunting license.

I didn't ask but I saw two of the references yesterday morning and spent this morning helping one of them wire an addition on his house. Neither mentioned any calls so I'm guessing no.

That's a really good idea. I prefer ear plugs to ear muffs.

1210am out of Philly has ads for several gun shops. But it's conservative radio all day.

I would probably just wait it out. However, I do think that it would be easier to deal with the matter before it's officially denied, not that there is any reason for it to be denied. It would probably be pretty cheap to get one of our gun attorneys (I'm thinking Jef Henninger) to make a phone call to inquire about the status and any problems. This at least lets the PD know that you're prepared to take action if it's denied and might help to just make sure everyone follows the rules.

You are right. I says "without first having obtained" a FID card. It says "have in his possession" a hunting license to transport when hunting.

In the "resident state license no" field I put "UTAH" and my UT permit number. I also enclosed a photocopy of that permit. I don't know if a permit from another state is required or not. I'm hoping she's in hiding and trying not to be noticed right now and won't do anything.

I've wondered about the line I made bold above. The law says that you can transport a long gun if you "possess" and FID card. Does possess mean I must have it on my person or that it just must be one of my possessions. Like everything gun related in NJ, it just takes one officer, one prosecutor, and one jury to make you a felon.

I just know what I read of the NH law. It's certainly possible that I missed something important. But, PA recognizes lots of permits that have different requirements than PA has - they just don't recognize the non-resident permits from those states.

# 1 applies except for when the law says it doesn't. The law says it doesn't on your own property. It says it doesn't when you transport within the exemptions. But, I thought we were talking about #2 - having a loaded shotgun. Since the OP wants somethign for self defense, an unloaded gun doesn't do much good. #2 applies, again, except for where the law says it doesn't. I don't see anything in the law that says it doesn't apply at your father's place of business.

I don't see anything in the law that requires a permit from any state. http://www.gencourt.state.nh.us/rsa/html/NHTOC/NHTOC-XII-159.htm

The answer is to read NJSA 2C:39-5 in it's entirety. Taking excerpts miss a lot of interconnection between the rules and which rule applies under which situation. But here's a very brief (and not all inclusive) excerpt: NJSA 2C:39-5 (c.) Rifles and shotguns. (1) Any person who knowingly has in his possession any rifle or shotgun without having first obtained a firearms purchaser identification card in accordance with the provisions of N.J.S.2C:58-3, is guilty of a crime of the third degree. (2) Unless otherwise permitted by law, any person who knowingly has in his possession any loaded rifle or shotgun is guilty of a crime of the third degree. So... number 1 says that possessing a rifle or shotgun is illegal unless you have a FID card. So, having the card makes it legal to possess. But, number 2 says that possessing a loaded rifle or shotgun is illegal unless "otherwise" permitted by law". No mention of an FID card making possessing a loaded shotgun okay. There is no exemption that includes carrying at your father's place of business so carrying a loaded rifle or shotgun there is not "otherwise permitted by law" as required in number 2. But this misses the rules about possessing on property "owned or possessed" by you, possessing while hunting, transporting to a place of target practice, and lots of other confusing exemptions. To get the whole answer, you really have to read the whole section.

FID card is a long gun carry permit cased and unloaded only. Whether "transporting" only covers vehicles is not clear. FID card does not let you load and carry on property that you do not own.

.22 is not hard to find any more. I'm just not used to the new cost of .22. What is hard to find is CCI mini-mags. My go-to nuisance-animal rifle shoots the smallest groups with those and I've only got a couple hundred rounds left.

Tell me about it. I need to get out to PA quickly before the PA AG nixes NH too. Hopefully she's laying low trying not to be noticed right now.

Received mine in the mail today. Day 0 - June 6, sent application - although at the time NH was saying wait for the new forms. I didn't wait. Day 15 - June 21, djw2033 posted that he received an email that NH was starting to process applications. Day 16 - June 22, check cleared Day 24 - June 30, received permit in the mail. I was hoping the permit numbers were numbered sequentially by state and that I'd get number NJ0000001. Not so.

Mountain top to mountain top, I'd believe you can sometimes get 12 miles. South Jersey is flat. There's a lot of trees but no big buildings or other obstructions. Typically, 2 miles is crystal clear. If I get 3 miles, it's a good day. You might sort of hear what the other guy is saying at 5 miles sometimes. This is with a cheap radio but quality antenna with the whole system adjusted for maximum efficiency using a meter. My antenna is 8' 3" high. The guys I travel with have similar setups. In the 70's my parents had CB's in all of their farm equipment. There was a 40' tower at the farm. They could reach 6 or 7 miles with that setup.

I can pull a blind roll pin at least as easily as I can drill out a rivet.