Mr.Stu

In NJ there is no such thing as a premise permit. There is a statutory exemption that allows you to possess firearms on your property, owned or rented. You are also allowed to transport firearms when moving to your new home so long as they are unloaded and cased, or unloaded and locked in the trunk of your vehicle. There are other exemptions you need to learn about but I'm trying to keep this brief and to the point. Any firearm must be legal in NJ, but I am not aware of anything that would be NY legal but not NJ legal. Once you get to NJ and you have updated your drivers' license you should apply for your Firearms Purchasers ID Card. This will allow you more freedom to transport long guns in NJ and also enable you to purchase handgun ammo in the State. If you intend to buy any handguns you should apply for a Permit to Purchase a Pistol (or multiples thereof) at the same time as the FPIC because it is the exact same process and you'll have to do it twice if you apply for handgun purchase permits at a later date. PtPP are valid for up to 180 days and can be used to acquire 1 handgun per permit with at least 30 days between each acquisition. Your FPIC allows you to acquire any number of long guns with no time limits. The FPIC becomes invalid 30 (or 35, I can't remember) days after you change address, so if you are going to rent temporarily before moving to a permanent residence it is worth waiting until you have your permanent address otherwise you'll just have to start over. There is no requirement (and no advantage) to register any firearms you already possess when you move into NJ.

I use a Hornady Rapid safe. They are RFID activated with mains power and battery backup. There is a key just in case too. I prefer the RFID to a number pad for simplicity and the technology is long proven. I use the wearable wristband so I never find myself without it and I'd be hard pressed to lose it. Also inquisitive kids won't wander off with it. The steel is a decent thickness and can be permanently mounted or secured with a cable. https://www.hornadysecurity.com/rapid-safes/

Which version are you getting? When I was looking on GB there we several of the NJ legal chassis style - model # 19126 - which is what I was interested in. Then I started looking at alternatives. I have shot the pistol version too - the PC Charger - and it was great, especially suppressed. The owner was especially careful to check he still had it when I left the range that day

An MP5 has been on my dream list since I was a kid watching the SAS storm the Iranian Embassy. However, I can't stand the look of an MP5 with a 16" barrel - it's just wrong. The Scorpion's direct blowback design is no better than the Ruger PC Carbine. I shot one and it wasn't as good as I would expect. The MPX is gas/piston operated so is much better, but has a reputation for being very gassy and the mags are more expensive than if they had HK written on them. The other option was a CMMG Resolute. My thinking is the delayed blowback of the Vector still applies in semi auto so I'm going to give it a try. I also kinda like the odd looks of the Vector so if it works I'd prefer it over another AR looking rifle. A bonus is that I already have Glock mags that will run in the Vector (also applies to the Ruger and CMMG) Do you know of any particular issues with the Vector to watch out for when I go for a test drive?

I started down that path and now I'm due to go look at a Kriss Vector next week instead. Well done for stopping at Ruger money.

They can, but it must depend on their forward speed as well.

The one potential show stopper for a revolver as a defensive firearm for people who have less strong hands is the the long, heavy double action trigger in double action mode. If you're in a fight for your life you don't want to have to cock the hammer manually before pressing the trigger. If you can't run a revolver double action it is not the gun for you.

I'm in the process of buying myself a celebratory new gun since it is a very American thing to do. I have a verbal agreement on a used Kriss Vector and I'm thinking about what optic to put on it. I have astigmatism in both eyes so usually have trouble with simple red dots. On other rifles I have an LPVO and an etched reticle prism scope. I'm thinking of going with a holographic on this one - either an Eotech 512 or 518 (maybe a xps2 or exps2 but the battery life is better on the 5xx) or a Vortex UH-1. Does anyone have experience of any of these? Also, I'm trying to figure out if I want absolute co-witness or lower 1/3 with my BUIS. The rifle comes with the magpul pop-up ones so I'm thinking absolute would be fine. What is your experience in this department?

If you're in the north east of NJ take a look at http://sawshootingclub.com/ They have a monthly meet at Gun For Hire in Woodland Park with instructors in their membership who can help you out. They also benefit from free rentals during the meet - you just have to use ammo you buy from the range.

WTF is an exit lane? Do you mean an exit ramp? This picture doesn't seem to portray that as exit ramps don't usually have an on ramp a well. Is this why so many people think it's OK to cruise in lane 2 instead of keeping right where they are supposed to be?

Shotgun shooting games can be a fairly wide variety too. At one end you have clays where a old side-by-side with external hammers and dual triggers would be fine and at the other end you have 3-gun where you need a far higher capacity and ability to shoot multiple targets quickly. For an all round shotgun a pump action is a good choice. Semi-auto would be better for 3-gun but in NJ you are limited to 6+1 capacity. With a pump you have no restriction on the magazine size and you can still run it for clays, especially if you get one with interchangeable choke tubes. I have a Benelli SuperNova and a Remy 870 each with 9+1 capacity for run and gun and a couple of used Beretta O/U that I got a nice deal on for clays. I used to use the SuperNova and 870 for clays too. I have brought them both to the NJGF clay shoots - the clays just keep on coming lol

Apart from the obvious - you shouldn't be on the trigger as you disengage the safety - I assume you mean you would have to adjust your grip to be able to reach the trigger after disengaging the safety. The extended safety lever you posted a link to would not help you. That appears to have the lever in exactly the same position but with a wider shelf to press on. Edit: after reviewing, it does seem to extend the shelf back as well as out. - so maybe?

Point of order: a non-NFA other does not need a pistol brace at all. It can have a plain receiver extension with nothing on it at all. What it cannot have is a rifle stock.

I don't know. What's the issue you have with the stock safety lever? Too high? Too far forward? Too far back? Too small to get enough leverage?

Mostly, yes so long as you get the correct caliber. The external dimensions are the same for standard frame sizes. The internal dimensions are obviously smaller when you compare 9mm to .45ACP mags. There are some minor nuances and some people find one particular manufacturer doesn't run well in their gun, but that can often be fixed by a gunsmith tuning the mag. I have had no issues with DP mags in my 9mm Springfield or with the Chip McCormick powermags in my .45 S&W. I run the DP ICE magwell on both with the DP no-gap base pads.

I use the Dawson Precision 10 round mags in my Springfield 1911 9mm. No issues at all.

I may be persuaded to run another class this year. It's not on my radar right now but if I hear of enough interest I'll schedule one.

Not strictly true, but also you cannot legally put just any upper on a non-NFA lower. You need to maintain the specs that allow it to qualify as a non-NFA. That means the alternate upper MUST have a VFG and the overall length when assembled from the back of the receiver extension to the muzzle must be 26 inches or more. e.g. a normal 16 inch carbine upper with no VFG when mated to a lower with an adjustable pistol brace is not legal. ETA: The same upper with a VFG installed is magically legal to mate with a non-NFA lower.

A simple rule is if the gun is single action, or in single action mode for SA/DA guns, the safety should be on before the gun goes into the holster. It is much more dangerous to put a gun into a holster than draw it out. Think about what happens if a foreign object gets inside the trigger guard as you holster the gun. The object gets trapped between the trigger and the top of the holster. By continuing downward movement of the gun and the trigger held still by the object, the trigger is moving backward relative to the gun. The gun doesn't care that it is not a finger and does what it is supposed to do when the trigger is moved towards the back of the gun. Conversely, as you draw the gun if a foreign object catches the trigger (unlikely, but not impossible) the upward movement of the gun results in the trigger being pulled forwards relative to the gun. This will not result in a discharge. In summary, if you can't operate the safety to your satisfaction you need to decock the gun before you holster. You should fully decock it, not use the half cock position. In a modern semi-auto that position is there only as a safety notch to catch the hammer in the event that the sear fails or bounces due to the gun being dropped or knocked somehow. I often SO for shooters who use a CZ without a decocker in IDPA matches and I'm always wary when they manually decock before holstering at the start of a stage. Safe muzzle direction is absolutely key. Have you looked into replacing the safety lever with one you can reach with your normal shooting grip?

Given the concerns voiced by @High Exposure and @JohnnyB it may be worth trying to find one where the shell attaches via some means other than threads. I do not think there is a flash suppressor on the market that would have the same threads as the outside of the Stinger, but no threads at all would clearly be safer legal ground and future-proof too.

Let me rephrase. There is no law that prohibits all threaded barrels. Only a "threaded barrel designed to accommodate a flash suppressor" is illegal.

Here is the answer to your quest. https://shopusa.matadorarms.com/The-Stinger_p_50.html It is a brake with a detachable shell that will direct the muzzle blast forward when you are at an indoor range. Yes, there is a threaded part to attach the shell. However, threads generally are not illegal. Only a "threaded barrel designed to accommodate a flash suppressor" is illegal.

If you ever found yourself to in a deadly force encounter using FMJ, SP or JHP is pretty much irrelevant. They are all potentially deadly and they are all potentially going to pass through your intended target and hit something beyond. That is something for you to be aware of and mitigate when you fire the shot (or not). Even the best JHP is designed to penetrate to at least 12 inches. There are very few people in the world that have an arm 12 inches thick so if you just winged them, the bullet is going to continue on to something else. If your legal defense strategy is that you didn't mean to use deadly force, you shouldn't have been using any of the above at all. Remember, using deadly force does not automatically mean you were trying to kill the bad guy. It means you were willing and justified in taking the risk that he'd die due to necessity to stop the serious threat immediately.

He's fine - just indisposed for a few days.

"I wish I had brought fewer rounds" said no survivor of a gun fight, ever.