mikka1

Sorry, can't suggest anyone in your area, but if you happen to drive to Newark area I found a mechanic here (in Nutley), who is just AMAZING (yes, in all caps, LOL). He literally returned my old crown vic that I bought off the public auction to normal life and so far he would probably be the only great thing I'd miss if I ever move out of NJ (hell I'll be driving up to 100 miles to his shop if I need some major planned repairs with any vehicle). Yes, he is really THAT amazing and very honest which is, unfortunately, very rare thing among car repair shops :-( ... If you somehow need his contacts, just PM me

+100 + Google Voice. The best free service from Google I've ever used (I think it's even better than Gmail, LOL). I never, repeat, NEVER EVER, received a marketer's call on my GV number. They seem to keep a database of telemarketers and scammers in the system and simply drop calls right away.

Good deal, free shipping and no tax make it even better. Same as svt3183 above I ordered a mix of 9mms and 223s for exactly $100.xx, paid $80.xx

I am in ONLY if CJ USPSA match is cancelled for whatever reason (the problem is if it is cancelled due to weather, there's a big chance this shootout will not withstand the weather either, LOL) - it is exactly at the same time ... again :-(

I am not sure this brand is strong in the US, but back in Moscow, Russia (where winters in general are ofter much-much worse than in NJ and roads can be maintained in a really poor way) I have always entrusted my life and safety to Nokian winter tires. It has initially been designed in Finland where, well, there's usually plenty of snow everywhere during winter months. I had a steep bridge not far from the place I used to live in Moscow and despite having old FWD vehicle I often was among those lucky guys who had no issues climbing that bridge in any weather, all thanks to those tires. Based on numerous ratings (and just overall perception) then in Russia those tires routinely outperformed much more expensive and much more well-known tires from Michelin and Bridgestone. Obviously this might not be the case here in the US as their manufacturing may be different here, but I'd still research this brand here and consider it if the price is good.

I completely agree with oneshot above - there is essentially no *need* to come as a spectator (while it is clearly not forbidden). If you want to get a flavor of what USPSA matches are a little in advance, there's a plenty of youtube videos available with absolutely different levels of shooters there ranging from complete "unclassified" beginners to experienced GMs Many folks run with action cams and post those videos openly on youtube, so you can get an idea of how the whole match can look like. If RTSP is out of the scope because of number of participants limitations, consider coming to CJUSPSA this Sunday - there's a separate thread on it - http://njgunforums.com/forum/index.php/topic/73848-uspsa-cjrpc-dec-14-2014/ CJ USPSA matches (at least in my view and based on shooting there at least several times last year) are very friendly to new shooters (well, correction, ALL USPSA matches I've been so far at are definitely very newb-friendly, but some of them, like Ontelaunee, are sometimes too big (9 stages or so) and can be exhausting even for seasoned shooters, let alone first-timers), Vlad tries to place all first-time shooters in different squads making sure that there are plenty of opportunities for knowledge transfer Just make sure you come on time to have a first-time shooter briefing session (or "safety check" as it is sometimes called) and you're GTG...

I would say - definitely not IWB, but I am not really sure about Serpa - I remember reading at least at several different sources that several clubs have specifically banned Serpa from being used at their matches / ranges, but I can't say anything conclusive on this, sorry. Generally speaking (and reiterating what I've heard many-many times from much more seasoned shooters - I am a relative newb myself) try not to overinvest in the beginning and try to use what you already have and what you can easily borrow as much as you can. Math is simple. Crappy double pouch will cost you anywhere around $20-30. Crappy belt - another 20 or so. Crappy holster - 20+. I can reassure you that over the course of first 2...3... or even more matches your primary concern should NOT be about how fast your draw or about how fast you reload on the run, but rather about how to do it in a SAFE manner and not getting DQed. When and if you realize that you like the thing, you can make some one-off investment into a good belt system, adjustable mag pouches, good competition holster etc. G19 is a good USPSA starter gun for Production division. I started with G19 a year ago, many other shooters I know started with it...

You can pretty much shoot anything starting from 9mm and up - there are several divisions that will fit almost any gun you might want to use. At a minimum you need to have a gun, a holster and at least 3-4 mags (+ mag pouches, but you can in principle stick your mags under your belt for the first match or two) . Spend some time and read this ~10 page intro from one of the USPSA clubs - I'd say it's probably the best one I've ever seen - http://www.northwestsection.org/files/SafetyCheck_Mar_08.pdf (though it might not be 100% up to date in details) There is also a lot of intro videos on youtube (some better than others, as usual) - check out the sticky thread in this section. If you are shooting a popular handgun and you don't have enough mags / holster etc., let people know about this and I am sure there will be folks willing to share their mags / gear with you (e.g. I'm happy to bring you Glock 19 mags if you need).

Mm... Interesting how much they would charge for shipping if they still have any.

Thanks, I also heard at some point that NJSP was actually destroying firearms, but was quite surprised to read/hear that as I've seen the condition of decommissioned vehicles they sell out from municipal auctions - they pretty much sell *everything*, even if it is just a rusted frame with no transmission and cracked engine. That said I was under the impression that they are very scrutinized on what they are doing with their assets after they stop using them, so the natural idea I had was that they sell guns as well... I seriously don't know how to comment

Just a quick simple question - I regularly run into stores (predominantly online) selling a variety of traded-in police handguns (mostly Glock 22 Gen 3, sometimes Gen 4, SIG P229 etc.), but all that I've seen so far were out-of-state. Are there any NJ-based stores that more or less regularly sell police trade-ins? I guess NJSP and PDs in municipalities are no different from the ones across the country and replace their guns time after time - so the question is where those guns eventually end up (and if they end up in any NJ stores where one can look at them and buy...) Thanks!

I am either for Sunday 12/7 or Saturday 12/13 I will definitely be unable to join on Sat 12/6 and most likely unable on Sunday 12/14 Can't say anything about 20/21 yet, sorry...

LOL, I've been always thinking the same thing. I caught myself recently thinking that I basically MUST buy a handgun as long as I have a permit that is about to expire. If I don't have money on hand, I either need to buy a CHEAP (and probably bad...) handgun or ... charge it to a credit card with 0%APR and pay later... Would be curious to see some stats from NJSP on how many permits issued are actually used to purchase handguns and how many of them expire and never used.

In fact, the list of documents that can be used as an "accepted proof of firearm experience" for Florida CCW permit is so broad that you can probably use any of published scoresheets for USPSA/IDPA/steel competition with your name in it as a "proof of participation in an organized shooting competition" that should also work. We submitted Florida docs for my wife in their Miami Dade office 2 weeks ago - she had her Hunter Ed card from NJ. In fact this card *technically* does not meet FL requirements (it does not clearly state the name of the instructor, at least mine and hers), but nobody really cares. They just see the word "firearms" and name of the person and give it GTG... (Small disclaimer: I definitely don't want to be blamed if something does not work the same way with others, but I just share our experience. As usual, YMMV) :-)

Actually, FL does not strictly "demand" live fire portion (YES, YES, I know what is written in FL law, but I'm just speaking practice - I had a course WITHOUT live fire, I asked the instructor several times if it is fine for FL, he said yes and he had never seen any of his students denied FL permit with his certificate. I was no exception - permit granted).

IANAL, but I personally see nothing illegal in doing this. As long as the mag physically does not cross a state line you aren't breaking any laws that I am aware of... I think you might experience issues buying 30rders in Heritage Guild / Sarco just because they are right on the border and might be on a safe side, but if you go to Cabela's in Hamburg I very much doubt anyone will be checking your residence to buy a mag... EDIT: P.S. In the end of the day just ask you friend's brother to buy you some mags with his PA ID.

Both Utah and Florida carry permits are valid in ~30 states with some overlaps / difference. You can find a nice map here - http://www.usacarry.com/concealed_carry_permit_reciprocity_maps.html DE and NC recognize both UT and FL permits (at least now, based on the map I provided a link above). Utah course itself is sufficient to get a Utah permit, but by itself will likely not be sufficient to get FL permit. For Utah permit fingerprints CAN be taken by pretty much anyone, so you can be fingerprinted at GFH or any other course facility. For Florida permit fingerprints MUST be taken by a sworn LEO anyway.

As correctly mentioned by DeerSlayer, pretty much any formal firearm-related education will work for FL permit (NRA First Step, NRA Basic, Hunting education course from any state etc.). Application is also something you can fill in in 20 minutes of your time, so I frankly don't see what to pay $50 for. The hardest part about FL application is about fingerprints - you have to be fingerprinted in a law enforcement agency (local PD or sheriff's office) and in fact you have to do it regardless of if you fill everything else by yourself or use some help. You can order a fingerprint card on https://licensing.freshfromflorida.com/forms/FormsRequest790.aspx (do it now, order 2-3 in case you spoil one, they send them pretty quickly). If you don't have any certificate, live in Northern NJ and want to optimize your spending on CCW permits (okay, let me say it straight - you want to do it as cheap as possible), I would highly recommend Damon Finch combined Utah & Florida course (google it, you'll find it quickly) - it costs $100, held in Newburgh, NY, and will get you 2 CCW permits in one go. I took this course a year ago myself and in terms of price this is a bargain you'll probably not find in NJ...

I have to admit I only bought guns in B&M three times (twice in RTSP and once in Heritage Guild), but I am absolutely sure that all three times store associates made copies of my DL, FID and my green card. Maybe the process is different because I'm not a citizen, don't know, but in HG I saw a lot of papers with copies of only PA DLs, so I guess the do it for everyone buying guns there...

Are you sure you didn't have a copy of your picture ID together with a firearm? When I came to Heritage Guild at 7:50pm Friday to pick a gun that I paid for 3 hours earlier I spoke to another salesperson, not the one submitting my docs for PICS check. The "new" guy didn't ask me for ID either, but he had a page in his hands with a copy of my DL, so I guess he might have had a look at me... But to make it worse, I heard numerous stories about people going unnoticed through international passport control with their spouse's passports (just by accident)...

Was at Union Dick's at around 1:30pm - they had plenty of ammo (not surprisingly really, given they haven't sold anything during the night) and lifted a limit to 2-3 boxes per person. Also went to HG Easton - took MP15-22 for $364 final out-of-the-door (taxes & PICS included) - not the best price, but I'd take it. PICS was a joke today, they submitted mine around 5pm, I paid for the gun, went to Wally in Nazareth (btw, no decent ammo there), had quick dinner with my wife and son and got back to HG at 7:55 to know that I can take the gun with me today. ...BTW, It seems that 22lr craze is really over or almost over. At 7:59pm HG still had plenty of 22lr that guys were basically pushing to people in bulk boxes of 12 bricks, LOL, not to make it stay in the shop until tomorrow.

...On a completely side note, if this is really a problem with a defective 6121, you can't repair or replace it and you are on Comcast, Newegg has a nice promo for a Zyxel Comcast Docsis 3.0 compatible modem for $20 after rebate - http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/hot-deals/1409307/

I called them today - they are still without NJ license, so no ammo / firearms. They have all "unrestricted" accessories though - clays, cleaning kits, safes etc. etc.

Based on the length of the thread here - http://forums.comcast.com/t5/Home-Networking-Router-WiFi/Having-issues-with-your-Motorola-SB6121-Please-post-here/td-p/1365553/page/14 - I guess there won't be an easy fix for this :-( P.S. I love Asus routers and have one myself (an older RT-N16 model), and if tasked with choosing the weakest link between Asus and Motorola communication devices I'd personally consider Motorola to be the one causing troubles. I see that your issue only shows up when you hook the modem up with a new router... so, I'd follow the sequence: 1) Switch on the modem alone, not hooked up to anything at all with everything else physically unplugged and switched off - I guess there are LEDs on it to understand if it goes to restart. Make sure everything works fine 2) Hook the modem up with the old router, see if all works fine 3) Leave the modem with an old router, but switch on a new Asus router and put nearby (I have an absolutely crazy idea that Wi-Fi from Asus might somehow impact the signal level in coax cables...). Make sure if it works. 4) Hook the modem up with the new Asus router and leave router off. Make sure modem works properly. 5) Switch on the router and do factory reset. Observe what is happening with the modem... As many have noted already, make sure your Motorola has the latest firmware - lots of issues often disappear with newer firmwares being installed ...

I'm wondering when this pic was taken - I was there exactly at midnight and they didn't have a single box of 9mm Blazer and had significantly less Federal bricks...