DeerSlayer

I didn't read that in the ordinance specifically. I would bring that up.

Are they billing you for the quarter before the new ordinance is taking place?

When I've done meter spreads for this in the past, they make us put stickers all over the pipe heading outside to the back flow prevention device that says, "for irrigation only" every 2' and they came to inspect that we put the decals on. I usually tap all the outside hose bibs off of that line too for the customer. Especially if they have a pool or hot tub. But it's probably worth it, if this is their new rules for your municipality.

I used to work for a company that did well work during my apprenticeship. We sealed a few with something called granular bentonite. It's like a clay material that expands inside the bore and casing with water introduced. Pretty cool stuff. It's like powdered great stuff expanding foam.

Some municipalities/private water company's, allow a separate irrigation meter. Some don't.

Good luck, there still in there usually through January. If you don't mind the drive from Pulaski, Watertown is usually awesome for steelhead and browns this time of year, If you can handle the cold.

You can't tap into any aquifer in the United States, without having the EPA certification to drill. If you're in NJ you can't even legally break the seal on you own well cap. Only a licensed pump installer or well driller can. You can do your own plumbing work inside the house however. I can't open a well cap as a licensed master plumber. Unless I have a pump installers license. (Most of us thumb our nose at that, and do it anyway. Just don't get caught, the fines from the fed are insane) Safe water drinking act rules.

Every municipality in NJ uses that same exact code book. Every inspector in every municipality, including those municipalities that don't have their own code enforcement officials and use state inspectors. Those are the state minimum standards. Townships may adopt further specific restrictions with state approval from the DCA. I spent 4 years in school being taught exactly how the codes work. By a state inspector. And I go to continuing education every two years to renew my license as required. Where we go over any changes to the code. I think I have a decent grasp on how things work considering my career evolves around the contents of this code. Yes a townships can decide that distance from lot line and curb to the dwelling. That's why it's left blank.

Federally illegal, unless you have a well drilling license. That goes beyond state law and codes.

That's the statewide adopted plumbing code. It's for every municipality in NJ. Not just one specific township. Townships in NJ don't have their own building codes. They're all state codes. Townships may add certain stipulations if the state approves them, with a legitimate reason. But they will always be stricter than the state adopted code, there are no exceptions to go more lenient ever. In NJ the statewide building code is the IRC (international residential code). That building code adopts the other codes, such as the National standard plumbing code, the national electric code, barrier free ADA, the international fuel gas code, and the international mechanical code. the state revisits their code adoptions every 3 years for re adoption of the updates to those codes. The reason for this universal code state wide is so we only have to have one license to work anywhere in the state under the same codes in our respective trades. If we didn't have that, we would be like PA or NY where you need a license for each county or township to work. They have different codes in different places. We're actually streamlined in this state surprisingly in that aspect.

Notice the use of the word "Shall" multiple times in the code. I posted it in black and white from the code with the citation. If there are sewers available, private systems are not permitted. Unless the "Authority having jurisdiction" (aka the township code enforcement official) says otherwise. The code enforcement official can put a red tag on your home if you don't comply, and have you removed from the dwelling until the code has been met if he/she wishes in a situation where it presents danger. And they will evoke the federal safe water drinking protection act, at that point as their grounds for your removal. Not to mention the daily fines until the dwelling meets code.

That may be the case here in Sussex county. But this is state code, and it trumps all local or county regulations. Even though the county regulations may be stricter slightly. This code is adopted state wide. Every building on every property in the state, is subject to the plumbing code.

The township can fill in that blank line in that code citation i provided with 5' if they wanted to. So if your dwelling isn't within 5' of the road, the Authority having jurisdiction can then not make you hook up. But it's still up to the town if they want to allow it or not. They caved to enough people in this case. In my town we basically rioted at the town hall and they did what they wanted to anyway. Even after we voted the sewer project down a few years prior.

The town can make special rules on distances from the system. Or if their system can't handle the additional load of a neighborhood, or even one house. Otherwise they have to connect as per 2.19.1 in the National Standard Plumbing code, as adopted by the NJ IRC. It's really rare that they do it though, usually there are some specific circumstances as to why they don't want that money from more homes.

They got away with it somehow. The town could force them to tie in if they knew about it.

Or out of the house, through loose construction or poor insulation. or all into one area of the house no where near the thermostat, which never seems to satisfy. Due to inadequate sizing, on the ductwork. Or improper balancing. Oversized equipment, causing short cycling, still has a flame efficiency of whatever the unit is rated to. But if it turns on and off 30 times in an hour, there goes your fuel economy. All those things contribute to higher fuel bills.

It's state law. If sewers are available you MUST hook up. No choice in the matter.

That's how you get flame efficiency readings. Which only relate to the flame itself. Now it's what your doing with that heat you're producing that really counts. That's when we get into heat loss calculations, delta T, manual J. All overall system efficiency. I have an oil fired furnace in my house I get 85% flame efficiency. I have customers with the same size house as mine, with 95%+ flame efficient gas fired units. I pay less in fuel than they do, and oil costs more. Why? Because the rest of my system is up to par, sized properly insulated and sealed correctly, ductwork locations are sized in accordance with my room sizes, window ratings, and ceiling Heights. That's overall system efficiency. That's what actually matters in the scope of things.

If you want to come to a Sussex County federation of sportsman's clubs monthly meeting, to pitch this I can arrange that for you sometime soon.

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I pay $327 per quarter, every quarter since 2003 until 2023. That's just for sewer. Not to mention what I had to pay to hook up, when they brought them to my town. I have a well, they only charge commercial properties in my town by water usage.

I have ways of making that oil bill much better. Most of your town is PSE&G. One area is NJ natural.

That's only equipment flame efficiency brother. System efficiency is a whole different story. Flame efficiency basically means nothing in the overall scope of a heating system.

It's going to shoot like a whole different gun.

My Sagia thread protector came off by hand. And the new choke came with a special wrench to tighten it. I would try a small strap wrench if it's really tight.