Eric.

More corrosion resistant than stainless steel?? Eric

I believe the Ruger Mini 14 is also banned by name? Eric

Just to throw two more pennies in... Since you are building vs buying an already assembled upper, I might suggest a stainless, cut rifled barrel with a Wylde chamber and 1:8 twist. I've always like the 8 twist due to most 223/5.56 factory ammo being in the 50 gr to 77 gr range. The majority of factory ammo being sold, anyway. As Krdshrk's chart illustrates, the 8 twist covers those bullet weights real well. If you're not reloading or don't have special needs i.e. benchrest shooting, using long 80gr bullets, etc, then this might work best. The Wylde chamber will work for both 5.56 or 223. As someone mentioned, you might get a tiny bit of accuracy loss, shooting 223, cuz there is a larger bullet jump to the rifle lands, but unless you are building a competition rifle, I wouldn't worry about it. The cut rifled barrels tend to be more accurate than a chrome lined barrel. For me, that is my preference (cut rifled). Lastly, make sure your barrel extension has the "M4 feed ramps". These are deeper feed ramps that are cut into the barrel extension that helps facilitate smooth ammo feeds. Eric >ok, three pennies

Cool range toy. I suppose the added weight is good for cutting down bipod hop and other recoil effects. Im not familiar with the nuances of the 26 Nosler. Why that caliber? Eric

I think a lead sled is much more of a crutch than a bipod. With a bipod, you have to compensate for cant, have proper loading for stability and to minimize hop, as well as coordinate with your rear support. With a sled, once you have it locked down, you only need to worry abiut not jerking the trigger. Eric

I like the chassis, Mike. It kinda looks like a cross between an AIAX and a McRee. I love both, but they are definitely on the heavy side. Eric

Yep. Just like a popsicle stick It's an older Surefire Socom brake. Eric

Thats cuz no one is as hardcore as 3Gun Vlad. Nobody. Eric

Gotcha. BTW, no lead sleds rests! Thats like using gutter bumpers when you bowl Eric

Same here. Ultimately, I decided that I wasn't lookign to build a show piece/replica. I wanted the function over form i.e. higher magnification optic, modern, HP coating on BCG, etc. Also, I refused to pay KAC for their overpriced handguard/rails or buy the Ops Inc collar since we can't run suppressed in New Jerkey. Eric

Our snipers shoot quite a bit further than 200 yds. For what its worth, 200 yds is considered short range or zero distance in the black rifle platform ;-) I love shooting steel too... Eric

The grouping looks a lil loose for what you have into your gun (2 moa).What ammo are you using? Eric

They have these at CJRPC (their loaner spotters). IMO, it is adequate for up to 300 yards. For that matter, other than a Kowa, Zeiss, Swarovski, Leica, etc, you are not gaining much at 300 yds by spending more money. Other than the high end glass, you shouldn't bother seeing bullet holes past 300. I own one as my range beater that I don't mind others using. Let me know if you would like to try mine. Eric

I love SPR's. The MK12 might be my favorite AR configuration. Extremely versatile too, as someone mentioned. Mine is nore function over form. Specifically, I used a modern coating on the BCG and went with a more powerful optic. The original MK12's generally had 3-9x or 10x glass. MK12 Mod 1 (not an exact 1:1 clone) Bushmaster lower, BCM blem upper Geissele DMR 3lb - .5lb Robar NP3 treated BCG WOA SS .223 Wylde, M4 ramps, SPR profile barrel (has machined step for Ops Inc collar), 8 twist, mid length gas Surefire comp Quad rail, free float rail A2 buttstock Magpul buis Vortex Viper 6.5-20x optic, mil dot reticle RDS on 45 degree mount Harris Bipod Eric

hey Chris, What kind of ammo are you using? Eric

Pizza Bob, What are you doing jn this section? No one mentioned revolvers Eric

I love MK12's. I posted my MK12 Mod 1-ish SPR in this thread. I run a VCAS sling too. http://njgunforums.com/forum/index.php/topic/10555-ar-pics-lets-seeum/page-74#entry951637 Nice gun, jrfly. Unfortunately, you have to go to PA to stretch out some (other than Cumberland in So Jersey). Eric

Toph, Also, when cycling the bolt, practice staying on the scope. Don't come off the gun and stay on target. This is a good habit for follow up shots. Eric

Sure. I'll jsut try to give a big picture type of thing (pardon me if some of the stuff is stuff you already do). Basically, with dry firing, you are trying to strengthen you fundamentals. you know, the BRM stuff. The goal is to have the steadiest position and hold that you can develop and have the smoothest trigger pull, with as little impact on the rifle as possible. In a nutshell, here is my pre shot routine, shooting prone: 1. establish line of shot to target and place rifle (using a bipod) on that line. 2. get on hands & knees behind rifle and kick my legs straight back. I want my spine parallel to the shot line. 3. drop onto the rifle. Make sure I have the rifle in the pocket of my shoulder, drop my head on teh stock naturally, with no stretching of hte neck or straining and make sure my head is not canted too much. 4. acquire sight picture thru scope. check for rifle cant. try to put crosshair on target and work on my natural point of aim, using as little muscle to hold the aim as possible. Have the weight of the rifle mostly rest on your skeleton where you can close your eyes and repoen them, with no movement from your point of aim. 4a. Load the bipod; push forward a tiny bit. 5. relax as much as possible without causing wobble and take a deep breath. Note, as you breathe in, the POA will drop below your target and as you exhale, it will rise back to the POA. This is good. 6. begin your trigger pull at the bottom of your exhale (your natural respiratory pause). Perfect your trigger pull. you should use the pad of your index finger and pull as smoothly as possible. It's mroe of a press than a squeeze. Do not let the side of your finger drag against the side of the stock. After the trigger breaks, hold your finger press for a full second afterwards. This is considered good follow through. You don't want to flinch before the bullet has left the barrel. This is just a quick and dirty post (I'm at work), but this is my dry fire practice. This vid is part of a series (really good shit). It might cover the topic better than I do: Also, you might want to check with Ruger if dry firing without a snap cap is ok. With a Remington 700 action (striker fired bolt, similar to Ruger), it;s fine to not use one. Remington recommends not using anything to dry fire. Eric

Ace, For future reference, the fsb can be easily removed. All it takes is knocking out two drift pins and the one small rollpin holding the gas tube on. It would have been quicker than grinding/cutting the fsb and you can buy a low profile gas block for $30 to replace it. It looks cleaner too. Eric

Ho boy. Jsut out of curiousity, why couldn't you just buy a low profile gas block(cheap item), drift out the 2 FSB pins (L to R)? No need to hack up the mil spec FSB... Eric

Nice toy, Topher. Someone mentioned dry firing. For those that cannot shoot several times a week, dry firing might give you the most improvement, in my opinion. Also, make sure you have good fundamentals. No sense practicing bad technique. If you ever feel like taking a ride down to Range 14, I would be happy to observe your technique and make suggestions. I'm no grand pooba shooter, but I don't suck either. Eric

I dont think it makes a difference; a bolt action gun is a bolt action gun... Mike @ Tier One posts here under "T1 Defense". Might want to try sending him a PM... http://njgunforums.com/forum/index.php/user/2515-t1defense/ Eric

Wtih all due respect, I think you missed the point a lil... Using my post as an example, I mentioned that you can build something of comparable quality for $550 to $750. I agree taht an exact clone is going to cost more but my point was that you can buy similar parts, of similar quality level, for far less. For example, instead of an Vltor upper and Mega lower, you can buy a blem Aero lower for $55 and a blem BCM upper for $70ish. Even a non blem lower from Aero can be around $85 and is as good as any lower around. CHF for $240? Too much. a CHF barrel is not anything special. For $240 you can almost buy a stainless, cut rifled barrel from White Oak (with a Wylde chamber). Eric

Good replies, so far. Just to add, the difference with the carbine length is that the bcg gets thrown back faster/harder due to the shorter gas port location. If the bcg is slamming on recoil, that is the reason you add buffer weight. Basically, you want as little bcg action possible with the gun still reliably cycling. The rifle length is the softest shooting length. The mid is, well, between the rifle and carbine. If the gun can cycle reliably, then stick with the rifle/A2 buffer. Anyway, I run an 18" mid length barrel with a rifle A2 stock/ buffer. I have no cycling issues. Also, be sure to run your bcg wet. Lube it well. Eric