Budasac

According to that diagram someone posted, you would be correct. I honestly never came across it. The electrical inspector doesn't look at the generator since it's not permanent. Just the means to attach the generator and the connection at the panel. I also never supplied a generator so it isn't something I've researched. I understand the theory. No different then sub panels having the neutral and grounds isolated from each other. I've also seen tons of sub panels that had the neutrals grounded but never found it to be the cause of any issues. I was also under the impression that all commercially sold portable generators were bonded. These "Floating Neutral" generators are not safe to be used as portable units to the best of knowledge. They are set-up for a particular application and need to be connected to the house in order to be grounded. The way I see it, if you're concerned about having two bonds, the safest way to deal with it would be to break the ground at the inlet box. That way the cord will be protected by the generator ground and the inlet box and house will be protected by the house ground. The generator and house ground are then isolated from each other.

I don't do anything with the neutral. It's bonded in the main panel. A neutral break transfer switch is not required for a portable gen set-up.

Probably not now with a storm coming but, yes. Last I checked, that same cord end was $30 at HD. I bought it for $7.50 on Amazon a few months ago. That seller is out and another has it for $14.50. Much better selection and prices online. I assume you want it now though? It pays to be prepared. A week after Sandy all my supply houses were completely sold out of generator related items and stayed that way for weeks. You may get lucky though. Typically HD has cords in the generator section along with 6 or 10 circuit panels and cheap inlet boxes (cheap design, $50). If you get an interlock kit you can skip the separate emergency panel and go direct to the main panel.

http://www.amazon.com/Cooper-Wiring-L1430C-L-Connector-250-Volt/dp/B00880D4L6/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1443748608&sr=8-15&keywords=30amp+twist+lock $14.25

Cut the end off the cord and then buy a female 30amp twist loc cap. You will then have a 20' extension cord for the Genny to plug into the house. (20' is the standard length). Then buy some 10/3 romex in whatever length you need to get from the panel to where ever you're going to mount the inlet box. Romex is much cheaper then S/O cord. Also, the cord isn't listed for permanent installation or to run through a wall. If you have any questions PM me and we can talk about it.

Interlockkits are legal and approved for use in NJ. I've installed plenty of them. It does not "back-feed" your panel. Actually it prevents back feed by isolating your service feed from the generator feed. Illegally back feeding the panel would be connecting the generator to say an AC disconnect and using that to feed the panel. The issue being that if you don't turn off the main cb you'll be feeding back to the pole and could potentially electrocute a lineman trying to make repairs. My only issue with the Interlockkit is that it gets mounted to the panel cover, which is fine if the panel cover is installed but, you lose the Inter-loc when the panel cover is removed. Not really a big deal but, there are better options available IMO.

They make door openers with battery back ups for exactly that scenario. Although I'll never understand why people so often build garages with no man door. I see it all the time (usually when someone calls because their door opener doesn't work.)

I know but, I'm home and I'm impatient. I had the day off and wanted to do something with it. I'm looking through Brownells big book now.

I was hoping to find a lower parts kit today and install it but no body had one in stock. I did install the RRA National Match 2-stage trigger and Magpul grip. I'll check Heritage tomorrow, otherwise I'll have to order a parts kit along with everything else.

I think I have one of those. My buddy gave me a box with "everything I need to build an AR." Pretty sure that was in there.

Thank you. I was looking for something a little different, when I saw this one I thought it was perfect. I've been on a 1911 bender lately so the ARs may actually be easier on the wallet. We'll see how much self control I have. I've barely begun this one and have at least two more builds planned already.

I've officially crossed over to the dark side. I bought my first AR a few months ago and now I'm starting my first build. Yesterday I finally came across a lower that I liked so now it begins. I have a RRA 2-stage trigger so far but nothing else. I'm sure I'll be placing numerous orders over the next week or two though.

I have a friend who experienced the same exact same thing. He was arrested (maybe even convicted) for possession and being under the influence as a young adult. He's been a county sheriff for about 20 years now I think.

I don't think I could ever pick "one gun for a lifetime" but, if your choice is Glock or CZ I would go with CZ hands down. I have a G23 (they're all the same) and a CZ 75b and, to be honest, I don't shoot either one very much but, I do enjoy shooting the CZ. It fits my hand nice and is very accurate. My Glock is my night stand gun, I only take it the range once or twice a year to confirm it functions properly. I don't enjoy shooting it as much as my other pistols.

That's BS. If they had too many people apply for permits would they stop issuing because it's too much work? When they told you "no" I would have asked for all the paperwork to apply for a permit and simply applied again for spite. If they don't feel like stamping an existing permit then make them do all the paper work for a new application instead. In Woodbridge you bring in the permit and they stamp it right there and hand it back to you. Takes them 5 seconds.

Really, because page 14 discusses "full carry permits" and states that you need to show "proper cause", which doesn't appear easy to prove.

Yep I agree. I initially went to "page 14" as you referred to and that section discusses "full carry permits". I didn't read the other section that Bob pasted until now.

Then no, he can't. The passage your reading refers to "civilian full carry permit holders" traveling through the 5 boroughs.

Does your buddy have a carry permit??

Nice! Peace of mind is priceless isn't it. Before we got a generator we lost power for a few days and I lost everything in two freezers. Probably about $500 worth of food. I figure even if I only use the gen twice it will have paid for itself. The only problem now is that when ever the lights even blink my kids want me to start the generator.

It will be more than enough for what you listed. I have a family of four and we were running two freezer/fridges , sump pump, boiler, 2 or 3 tv, video game systems, lights in multiple rooms, and my wife ran the washer (and the dryer if we shut all the other breakers off). Never had any issues. Most appliances that you need to keep powered cycle on and off ( fridge, furnace, sump pump, etc), so in reality you only have 1 or 2 items drawing at any given time. That's why there's no point in worrying about Full Load Amperage since you don't need to have everything running at the same time.

My vote would be for a Kimber. I have a few others but my Kimbers seem to shoot the best for me. The TLE/RL would probably fit the bill for you. Tactical rail and night sights and sells for right around $1200. The Kimber Custom Target II (first one pictured) is the same gun as the TLE/RL but without the rail and with adjustable target sights. I threw in a pic of my Ruger SR1911 for you too. It's a nice gun for the money. I think they sell for about $800 and have some nice features. Probably about on par with a Springfield RO.

I have 8 guns in 4 catagories from that list: CZ-75b MKIII competition MKIII 22/45 Kimber Custom Target II Kimber TLE/RL SR1911 RIA Compact 1911 Glock 23 (w/ 9mm conversion)

I've probably installed at least 100 gen sets over the years ranging from whole building NG auto stand-bys to little four circuit emergency panels. In 90% of residential situations my recommendation is always the same. Get a portable generator with a 30a 240v twist-loc that puts out around 6000 watts. Mine is a Troy-bilt 6000/8200 watt. Add a cord, 30amp inlet, and manual transfer switch and you can power your whole panel. (Don't use those little 10 circuit generator panels. There is never enough room to get what you want/need.) You can get away with a smaller unit but there are always compromises. 6000 seems to be more then enough to satisfy most people. Material cost for a set-up like that is about $500 plus your choice of generator. You can't use everything at once but, you have access to everything except major electric appliances like oven, cooktop, dryer, ac. If you have gas appliances you won't even know the power is out. If you absolutely must have your AC then get a 50amp gen (assuming your AC is 30amp or smaller). Don't get all frustrated about trying to add up Kws or Amp draws or anything like that either. If you use too much juice you'll just trip the breaker (that's what it's there for.). Typically, if you simply conserve energy and only turn on what you're actively using there isn't an issue. As far as gas usage, you can convert to NG or get a tri-fuel generator if you're concerned. I personally don't run mine all day and night though. During Sandy we were out for 11 days. I ran it in the morning for an hour or so, another hour when I got home to run the fridge and take a shower, and then a few hours at night for entertainment and to heat the house up if necessary. So maybe 5 or 6 hours a day. The only time I would recommend auto stand-bys would be for people who have winter homes and aren't around. Other wise a portable generator is much more versatile and affordable.

If you're handy you can tackle it yourself.