The following are my opinions. As I've said before, I can be a dick, so feel free to excoriate my opinions if you like:

 

There are several methods for storing our favorite toys. It's necessary to strike a balance between maintaining our toys in our absence (ie if someone attempts to steal them) and maintaining our toys so that we can get to them in the event that the SHTF.

 

Here's my graduated list:

1) Locked plastic portable gun case

2) Locked metal portable gun case

3) Stationary metal cabinet with lock

4) Residential gun safe

5) Commercial safe

6) Trigger and cable locks

 

While researching this topic for myself, I resorted to a combination of 1 and 6 above. I considered 3, but found that if I wanted burglar security, I was not going to find that with option 3. So, it was off to find myself a 'safe'.

 

I started with my typical internet search, found what I could at Dick's, Costco, Cabela's, etc. And I quickly found that most of the safes they sell are residential safes which really are only one short step above option 3 - surprise surprise! Typically, residential gun safes have a fairly heavy gauge door, but the remainder of the structure is 16 gauge steel. A oxy-acetylene torch and a few moments and you'd be upset at how fast your residential safe failed...

 

So, then I looked at option 5 - HOLY JESUS! Mother Of God! Do you see how much those things cost? Back to option 4... Wait a minute, what about E-slay or Gregslist? A used safe? HMM. Let's see - ebay, good price, OMG that's in East Jabib and shipping alone would cost me more than a new safe. Ok, so the next search I do is within 200 miles of my zip and well - let's just say ZIP was about what I found.

Sorry - I had to stop and work for a minute

 

So, the search continues to Craigs slimy list. Aha, search for safe - 50000000000 hits, all about some idiot's car that is 'safe'. SURE, they all are buddy, else why would you sell it.

 

OK, so refine the search and we search for Gun Safe - not too bad, a few hits, pretty good, price still too high, but some nice options.

 

Now, I figured if you go in the 'business' category and search for safe - in these 'uncertain economic times' there are plenty of businesses who are going wrong side up, so I found a few there. GREAT!

 

So now, you find a safe, and hey, it's got all sorts of ratings on a nameplate inside like s Burglary rated, and Fire Rated, by UL. That's what you want to look for.

 

Then the problem becomes transportation. Generally commercial safes are heavy. No, not heavy like my Aunts, I mean freakin heavy! They've got a 2x2 ft footprint but are pushing down some 1500 lbs or more! So moving such a commodity is a heartache, but, that's partly why you want it, I mean nobody's just going to walk off with a safe that ways close to a ton WITHOUT your guns and ammo inside. Add that ammo and I bet you push 2 tons without thinking about it and maybe can even reach 2.5 tons! Not. Moving. Ever. Want to screw it down? Sure - why not, but you probably don't need to at this point.

 

So, my recommendation is option 5 - and several weak minded and strong backed individuals. End of story. And don't figure that you will be able to move the safe yourself - it just is NOT going to happen. Don't ask me how I know, but I KNOW.

 

So, I hope my story helps you figure out the best storage option for you.

 

-Dan

Love the craigslist and all of the cars that come up.

 

I think another thing to put on that list is to build a safe room, or build it out in your house.

A (relatively) safe room can be accomplished with fairly inexpensive materials and back breaking labor. Concrete block (commonly referred to as cinder block) with rebar and high psi concrete filled cores would make a fairly secure room. Poured in place concrete (also with rebar) is another somewhat more secure method. There are variations on the same theme, double or triple walls, laminate type walls (ie concrete, steel, concrete) etc. Often, the same structures used in the 50's for the 'duck and cover' crowd work really really well, as do tornado shelters which are fairly common in the plains states.

I started a thread on safe rooms a while back, some didn't agree so much, some did, some interesting reading if you like.

I have two gun cabinets now, one is store bought and the other a home-made box but they both do the job. My problem is that my house is too small and old and it problably couldn't handle the weight of a real gun safe. I thought about the basement but it's bad store firearms in damp basements right? Can real gun safes be kept in damp basements, or do I need a dehumidifier pluged in burning electricity next to the safe?

I would use a dehumidifier in the basement. Can't you find a point in your basement and reinforce the floor/ceiling for the safe to be placed on the floor above it?

Check these out. I used these in my old house to 'hold up' a 520 gallon fish tank. Worked great.

I have two gun cabinets now, one is store bought and the other a home-made box but they both do the job. My problem is that my house is too small and old and it problably couldn't handle the weight of a real gun safe. I thought about the basement but it's bad store firearms in damp basements right? Can real gun safes be kept in damp basements, or do I need a dehumidifier pluged in burning electricity next to the safe?

 

My buddy in LI has about 5 safes in his bsmt - I told him to move them nearer to his boiler which acts in his case as an automatic dehumidifier (he doesn't have a separate water heater so his boiler runs all year). Some of his stuff was starting to show rust.

 

Getting a real safe into the basement is another problem.

 

The jack that Chad pointed out is a good idea. You could also just get another one or two adjustable lolly columns, they're usually red primered steel in the lumber and building materials section of your home improvement store.

Any safe or cabinet should have Golden Rod heaters in them. They cost only pennies to operate and will keep the interior free of moisture.

rscalzo, sorry if this is a dumb question, but, how do you get power to the heater you mentioned if it's in the safe?

Most safes have a small hole in the back to run the cord through

Interesting - I have a safe being delivered next week... it's a pretty basic model.. hopefully it has a hole for this. Altho, wouldn't a hole make a "fireproof" safe, not so "fireproof" anymore?

I have read some things saying that. The hole is normally very small. The Golden Rod plug comes off to put the wire through the hole, then you reattach the plug.

Gotcha. Guess I'll just wait and see what I have to work with when the safe gets here

You could also just buy a tube of fire caulk - it's not cheap like home caulk, but it expands when heated to fill that hole and prevent fire from entering your safe.

 

You can also add desiccant to your safe which absorbs moisture.

Most gun safes have two holes one in the back for running a wire for a dehumidifier or interior light the other to bolt the safe to the floor. I have a gun dehumidifier and it cost pennies a day to run.