Does anyone know where I can get a spanner wrench with multiple pins (for a good grip) for old style RE castle nuts?  See pic...   I need the circular dimple pins so I don't muck up the nut.

That style is called a locking ring not a castle nut.

RetroRifles.com has them for $15.

https://retrorifles.com/us-military-style-armorer-wrench-ar-15-m16/

I have seen them as low as $5, but from companies I don’t know. 

 

9 minutes ago, High Exposure said:

That style is called a locking ring not a castle nut.

RetroRifles.com has them for $15.

https://retrorifles.com/us-military-style-armorer-wrench-ar-15-m16/

I have seen them as low as $5, but from companies I don’t know. 

 

Yes!  Thank you...knew it was called something else but couldn't remember so I just called them old style nuts.  Haha 

 

Definitely get the specific tool for it. I buggered one up trying to use my armors wrench that really didn't have enough meat on the tab.  For reference, once I bought the specific wrench, I still needed to stick a pipe on the end of it for leverage to break it free. Would love to meet the gorilla who put the damn thing on. 

6 minutes ago, JackDaWack said:

Definitely get the specific tool for it. I buggered one up trying to use my armors wrench that really didn't have enough meat on the tab.  For reference, once I bought the specific wrench, I still needed to stick a pipe on the end of it for leverage to break it free. Would love to meet the gorilla who put the damn thing on. 

Was there adhesive on the threads?  Loctite, rocksett,  etc?

Also did you still end up buggering the lock ring with the "lock ring" wrench as you had to add additional force?  Did the wrench grip the lock ring without slipping?

4 minutes ago, Dooly said:

Was there adhesive on the threads?  Loctite, rocksett,  etc?

Also did you still end up buggering the lock ring with the "lock ring" wrench as you had to add additional force?  Did the wrench grip the lock ring without slipping?

The wrench worked great, I didn't see any more damage than was already done. There was nothing applied to the threads that I could find.. no slipping, they are rounded with a proper diameter that when force is applied the rounded tab locks in place. After one strong pull and nothing moved I grabbed the breaker bar lol. 

But I will warn that blue loctite has given me some real issues getting a castle nut off, go light if you plan on using it. 

On castle nuts, I actually use anti-seize or lube on the threads then do a proper staking but I'm not entirely sure what is the mil-spec method of securing an old school lock ring.  I presume it's a measured torque spec but I'm going to have to do some research.   Any idea?  LoL

40ft pounds.

3 hours ago, Dooly said:

On castle nuts, I actually use anti-seize or lube on the threads then do a proper staking but I'm not entirely sure what is the mil-spec method of securing an old school lock ring.  I presume it's a measured torque spec but I'm going to have to do some research.   Any idea?  LoL

That's why I mentioned it, I do the same staking when given the notch to do it. If not I use a dab of blue loctite. I have an SB Tactical pdw brace on an other that doesn't have a locking nut and transferred it to a longer one when the ATF changed their mind on OAL. I never used a thread locker on the buffer extension prior, and prefer not to unless there isn't a jam nut.