Maybe Someone can assist me?

 

I just received my CMP Garand Stock Set (after waiting for months).

 

It seems that everything fits well (both handguards) together except the main stock.

 

When I attempt to lock the trigger assembly into place, the trigger guard will not close all the way to latch.

 

My original stock still fits fine with both new handguards.

 

It seems that the new stock is not letting the receiver and trigger housing lock.

 

It "Appears" that the receiver does not go into the new stock as far as it does on the old stock.

 

Is it normal for this to happen or should this fit without alterations?

 

Naturally I am very disappointed and am looking for something to try to make it fit.

 

Thanks,

 

Bob D

Hi Bob, its not out of the ordinary for a M1 garand to have to be fitted for stock fit. From what I read a lot of the garand's accuracy comes from its stock fitting.

 

I think that you may be able to do it yourself with some reading online, or if easier for ya take it to a smith. The garand guy in NJ does that work I believe.

 

Good luck. Id offer to help but I never fitted one.

Thanks so much for the "Garand Guy" Info.

 

I'll contact him.

 

This was my Dad's Garand and I want restore it and someday pass it on to my children.

 

Bob D

Check this thread out, might help:

 

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=447752

Thanks so much for the "Garand Guy" Info.

 

I'll contact him.

 

This was my Dad's Garand and I want restore it and someday pass it on to my children.

 

Bob D

 

Sure no problem. Heres his info

 

http://www.garandguy.com/

To Everyone who responded to me:

 

I did a "Little" sanding in all the right places and now the stock fits just fine.

 

Thank you all for your assistance, I really appreciate it.

 

Bob

The trigger guard should be snug and require a decent amount of force to close and open. Many times a screwdriver is required to open the guard from the assembly. Too loose and it will detach under recoil.

 

I'd also put a few coats of pure Tung Oil on the stock. they come slightly oiled but not much at all. They look significantly better oiled. while it is up to you, I've avoid and oils that include varnish mixed in as you will wind up with a sealed shiny stock unable to accept any further oiling.

Yes, the trigger guard is quite snug. I was told to hold back the bolt and squeeze the trigger. If I hear a click then sand the stock more until I do not hear the click.

 

It was also suggested by someone else for me to use Pure Tung Oil on the stock. I did order some.

 

Do you suggest removing all the metal before applying the oil?

 

Will this oil harm metal?

 

Thanks,

 

Bob

Good work Bob.

 

You know the rules though. Pics or GTFO!

I do remove the metal but the oil won't harm it. I just like the get coverage under the metal. It is easy to remove the metal as long as you have a hand guard clip plier. If not, leave the clip on as you stand a good chance of cracking the hand guard. Not that big of a deal.

 

I'm a few days into restoring a original Garand stock. It looked like crap when I got it last week. But I don't want mine to look like they just came from the factory. the dents and dings give it character. I have two that have been totally restored but a few i want to keep looking somewhat used.

 

It took many hours over a few days to clean it to the point I could start the oil. I rub it in by hand using my fingers. The heat that builds up helps the process. The trick is to use VERY little for each coat. Don't put a heavy coat on because it won't dry and you will only have to wipe it off.

 

Patience is the key.

I wouldn't use tung oil unless you want it shiny. Use Boiled Lindseed oil and hand rub it into the stock. That's how the original USGI stocks were done.

Tung Oil will not put a shine on the stock unless you overdo it. That's why I cut it with mineral spirits. Tung Oil will seal better than linseed oil and dry better. Beyond that it's a toss up. Neither is a permanent oil and applications are required every so often. that is why the Miniwax (and other) blends are no good as they seal the wood with a varnish. additional coats will only lay on top of the wood and never dry.

 

I use multiple coats of bowling alley wax in any case to put a seal on the wood without the use of a paint product which is permanent. I can strip down the stock at any time using a solvent.

 

If you do use linseed oil, be careful with the oil soaked rags as they can become a fire hazard.

 

I just put this one back together.

I applied 1 coat of pure Tung Oil cut to 50%

 

The stock looks pretty nice.

 

Should I apply another coat?

 

If so, should I use it full strength?

 

I don't want it to shine.

 

Thanks, Bob D

Multiple coats are better, in my opinion. If it starts to shine on you, just knock it down with some 0000 steel wool.

 

But I wouldn't cut your formula more than the 50% you're using now. The mineral spirits help it soak in and keep it from getting gummy.

 

BTW is this a walnut or birch stock?

The CMP stocks are walnut. They are said to be finished with oil but mine were just barely and needed work. Light sanding with a fine steel wool and coats of oil finish the job.

 

As said, don't cut the oil that much. I only take a small portion in a separate container and cut it maybe 10 to 20 percent to start. But the watchword is SPARINGLY. I put a small amount on my fingertip (wear gloves) and work it in. Let it dry several hours. Then do it again. A dry stock may take several coats. Don't worry because any shine can be knocked down with a light rub of fine steel wool and a wipe down with mineral spirits. If you don't give it time to dry between coats, it will build up and get gummy which means back to square one.

 

I'm sure I don't have to tell you but use good ventilation. I put mine on the deck when it's nice out to dry.