i know i can cut the brake off with a cutting wheel.. but can i carefully drill out JUST the pin and reuse the break.. i dont see any reason i couldnt.. but everyone seems to cut them off..

i know i can cut the brake off with a cutting wheel.. but can i carefully drill out JUST the pin and reuse the break.. i dont see any reason i couldnt.. but everyone seems to cut them off..

 

If you could put it in a milling machine, you could get it exact enough to get the hole but if just a drill press and eyeballs, you'll probably make the hole 100000ths larger than it should be.

 

Give it a go, what have you got to lose?

Considering the cost and added effort, it probably isn't worth it. I've never seen a procedure that didn't involve destroying it.

Considering the cost and added effort, it probably isn't worth it. I've never seen a procedure that didn't involve destroying it.

 

Then they are just simply doing it wrong.

 

Use a center punch on the pin so the bit doesn't "walk" on you. Drill a smaller hole than the pin all the way through the pin not the break itself. If you mess up, at least the mess up is little and you can still recover. Use progressively larger bits and keep drilling out the hole until the pin is gone. Use lots of oil also to keep the bit(s) from burning up. Tap the brake off. Hope this helps. My .02 cents and having done it that way before. Of if the weld on top of the pin is thick carefully and lightly grind it away then you can try tapping the opposite side of the break to see if the pin will unseat, sometimes they are not fully wedged

and tapped in overly tight.

 

A drill press and the correct bits makes the process easier but it can be done easily and the break resued with little to no damage.

Considering the cost and added effort, it probably isn't worth it. I've never seen a procedure that didn't involve destroying it.

 

Then they are just simply doing it wrong.

 

Use a center punch on the pin so the bit doesn't "walk" on you. Drill a smaller hole than the pin all the way through the pin not the break itself. If you mess up, at least the mess up is little and you can still recover. Use progressively larger bits and keep drilling out the hole until the pin is gone. Use lots of oil also to keep the bit(s) from burning up. Tap the brake off. Hope this helps. My .02 cents and having done it that way before. Of if the weld on top of the pin is thick carefully and lightly grind it away then you can try tapping the opposite side of the break to see if the pin will unseat, sometimes they are not fully wedged

and tapped in overly tight.

 

A drill press and the correct bits makes the process easier but it can be done easily and the break resued with little to no damage.

 

 

people say impossible MUST cut it..

 

DPMS says IMPOSSIBLE to reuse...

 

but from just looking at it.. and understanding how its on there.. i fail to see why it would not just twist right off after drilling out the pin.. YES drilling the pin will be a bitch.. but the process seems really straight forward?

Why? How pricey of a muzzle brake are we talking here?

Unless it's welded on to the threads I do not see it being any different then another pinned on break.

Why? How pricey of a muzzle brake are we talking here?

 

 

bennie cooley brake.. which is generally about $100.. $100 that i dont HAVE to spend? seems worth it to me..

Tap the brake off

 

I have a older NJ compliant upper from Bushmaster. This brake is installed on a treaded barrel and not press fitted. In my case, the brake is not worth enough. For a hundred, I might try to save it.

i know i can cut the brake off with a cutting wheel.. but can i carefully drill out JUST the pin and reuse the break.. i dont see any reason i couldnt.. but everyone seems to cut them off..

 

I know this is an old thread but I am reading all the threads rather than just marking them read:

 

As other have said a Milling Machine is the best option. There is also a trick that was mentioned that can work in these and other situations that you have a threaded bolt in that giving you a hard time. Also good for them stripped out heads that you can't get a hold of on other application other than guns also.

 

Center punch is a must, and go in steps from small to large, but here is the trick, get a set of reverse drills. These as the name says cut in reverse rotation, yup the same direction as you would use to unscrew it in the first place. Going slow there are many time that it will catch just enough to back it out of the hole and allow you to remove it without getting closed to damaging the threads.

 

Just wanted to add a little that wasn't mentioned.

 

Harry

if it was done properly, I'de say dont bother trying. Blind pins go through the threads into the barrel a little bit then are plug welded. Finding dead center will be very very very hard. Then knowing when to stop in your barrel is another issue. Even if you get it out, will it unscrew without buggering stuff up? Its called permenent for a reason...lol

bennie cooley brake.. which is generally about $100.. $100 that i dont HAVE to spend? seems worth it to me..

 

I never liked those brakes... I'm always happy to tear them off.

Its called permenent for a reason...lol

 

And what reason is that? Because it is clearly not permanent. It is not a question of whether you can remove it or not, but rather whether you can save the break in the process. The evil threads at the front of the barrel will become uncovered regardless.

And what reason is that? Because it is clearly not permanent. It is not a question of whether you can remove it or not, but rather whether you can save the break in the process. The evil threads at the front of the barrel will become uncovered regardless.

 

 

If the blind pin is through the threads (like it should be) then that could become questionable.

 

However I am no expert on this since I havent done it so take what I say with a grain of salt.

You need a mill to be able to accurately remove the pin.

Maybe pick up a DPMS Miculek Brake for $29 from CTD.. ($36 shipped).. Normally this is $45..

 

Its a 3 port design and worked well on my Saiga 308, DPMS 308, & now my DPMS 5.56.

 

heres a pic showing 2 of the 3 ports (on each side) and my recent PIN for NJ..

 

 

then just cut off the old and put this one on and pin again..

(obviously you will have a smith do it or do it yourself at a friends in PA).

 

(I have a HOW-TO in the welded brake post near the end)..