I am just wondering. I don't think I ever saw a 22LR dummy round for dry firing. I would imagine that for rim fire it is very bad?

Bad indeed, I only do it to check trigger pull.

You can put a spent .22 casing in it to dry fire.

You can put a spent .22 casing in it to dry fire.

Just rotate it

There are Snap Caps for .22lr

 

A spent round is good for one fire without rotation.

use a plastic dry wall anchor of the correct size - works great + cheap -

Some .22 rimfires are OK to dry fire. Ruger's 10/22 for example - it is the only way that it can be uncocked after firing the last round (since there is no bolt hold-back) and Ruger recommends pulling the trigger on an empty chamber. I'll admit that I do try to avoid it with most guns, but it isn't necessarily harmful in all guns.

 

Adios,

 

Pizza Bob

use a plastic dry wall anchor of the correct size - works great + cheap -

 

 

Thats Great! I have plenty of those so its cheap!

 

Thanks for the replies guys.

I prefer dummy rounds, simply because of the different color so there's never any doubt if it's a live round or not.

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use a plastic dry wall anchor of the correct size - works great + cheap -

 

Hey - that's a good idea. I'll have to try that.

use a plastic dry wall anchor of the correct size - works great + cheap -

 

 

This worked great the first time out. I used #8-10X1" anchors. I had to put it in the breach each time but it worked like a charm.

Some .22 rimfires are OK to dry fire. Ruger's 10/22 for example - it is the only way that it can be uncocked after firing the last round (since there is no bolt hold-back) and Ruger recommends pulling the trigger on an empty chamber. I'll admit that I do try to avoid it with most guns, but it isn't necessarily harmful in all guns.

 

Adios,

 

Pizza Bob

 

Not sure what you mean? There is indeed a "bolt hold-back" on my 10/22. Through activation, the bolt can be opened and slided back to the rear and left in the "open" position?

 

According to Ruger, all of the firearms I own from them can be safely dry-fired without any damage to the firearm.

Not sure what you mean? There is indeed a "bolt hold-back" on my 10/22. Through activation, the bolt can be opened and slided back to the rear and left in the "open" position?

 

The bolt does not remain open after the last round in the mag is fired, thus cocking the gun on an empty chamber, necessitating a trigger pull to uncock the gun.

 

Adios,

 

Pizza Bob

The 10/22 manual says that it can be safely dry fired...

I actually have several questions about this topic.

 

One is, everyone warns me not to dry fire any of my .22LR's... I get that.

 

But a gun shop dooshdaddy grandad told me its fine to just leave em cocked.... Just put em away cocked is fine... I was like, wont that harm the internals etc. ? Leaving it all tensioned etc.? He's like naw, no problems t'all.. .What's the truth?

 

Also someone told me that on the 15-22 it's okay to pull back the charging handle a little bit, THEN dry fire, and it's all good and fine... but I don't want to do it until I know that's truthful... so ... what's the truth?

 

Lastly, anyone with info on a Rem 597 (NOT the tacticool ones, the one that looks like a rifle dammit) ... It has a bolt hold open BUT ONLY when an empty magazine is inserted, so is it okay to pull back the handle for inspecting,cleaning.etc ... also okay to release it fully ?

 

Thanks!

 

 

(One last question... anyone have a problem leaving .22LR mags loaded? I am quite certain leaving say a Glock magazine loaded is all fine, but what about .22LR mags?)

I think it's OK to decock by going slightly out of battery and dry firing. Obviously if you go fully out of battery the disconnector won't let you do that. This will prevent the firing pin from hitting the rear chamber face. This is probably still not that great on the firing pin but at least you won't peen the rear face of the chamber. If you peen it enough the sides of the slot will raise and you'll eventually have feeding issues.

 

A lot of 22 conversion kits for pistols don't have a last round lock back and shooters drop the hammer on a empty chamber a lot. I know for the Sig kit it used to cause issues because the firing pin would peen the rear face of the chamber so badly it would raise around the peened slot and cause feeding issues. They normally would dremel the raised high spots away and it would work again. I wonder why they don't just cut a relief slot in the first place.

i think it depends on the firearm.

the rugers 10/22 and mark3 are ok to dryfire according to ruger, even the lcp according to the tech when i called.

as for my p22 and mp 15 22 the manual says specificly not to

I like the Pachmayr Snap Cap 'cause they're bright orange. I don't need to use 'em much, though. The drywall anchors sound like a good idea.

Also, a note on the Sig .22's (not Mosquito) about the slide not locking back after the last round. Sigpower makes a replacement mag follower that will lock the slide back after the last round. I got 'em on both of my mags and they work good.