OK- I'm starting to reload .223 in a Dillon 550B I'm going to go step by step as I proceed just to let others know what's involved and the time involved prior to pulling the trigger.

 

1- Take all your cases and tumble them clean.

2- Sort all cases buy manufacturer (at this point this is important)

3- Lube one set of cases, externally and inside the case mouth.

4- Run the cases through the decapping full length siding die.(I'm not priming the case at this point)

5- Prepare your case trimmer.

6- Measure a case and determine if it needs to be trimmed.( it will)

7- Trim case to correct OAL.

8- Chamfer case mouth inside and out. Check length again.

 

Now you can go back into the progressive press and load ammo.

 

I'll continue this thead as I progress. I've loaded zillions of rifle rounds through the years but not for an AR and never in a progressive press. It's certainly not as easy as loading pistol ammo but it's still less than 1/2 the cost of factory ammo and I would hope better quality. BTW I'm loading commercial Remington cases so there are no crimped primer pocket issues. Feel free to ask questions as I proceed. Rather than waste a lot of BW, ask questions about tools, guages and die set-ups as required.

 

Frank

Frank,

 

 

I am in the process of beginning my search to start reloading. Since I shoot a lot of 9mm, .40 and now .223/ 556, I am interested in what the actual cost to reload will be.

 

I mean getting a box of pmc .223 is costing about $7 to my door, for 20 rnds. What do you expect your cost to be after you reload 20 rounds?

 

I am trying to see if it is worth reloading if I get the ammo cheap from cabelas.

What is the reason for sorting the brass my manufacturer? Would this be as important for handgun brass? I have a big container full of tumbled 9mm. Probably 2000 rounds worth. I'm wondering if I really need to separate it all out.

I would assume that each manufacturer has different wall thickness or something along those lines.

4- Run the cases through the decapping full length siding die.(I'm not priming the case at this point)

 

Assume you mean SIZING die?

What is the reason for sorting the brass my manufacturer? Would this be as important for handgun brass? I have a big container full of tumbled 9mm. Probably 2000 rounds worth. I'm wondering if I really need to separate it all out.

 

To me, it is not that important unless you are loading to the max or you are loading match grade ammo and need supreme consistency. Case capacity can differ by manufacturer. I have never done this for my pistol reloads. It is probably worth doing for my SAVAGE PC 308 though, but I have yet to do it.

223 because it is such a bottleneck case, and in particular because it is thin as it is, I take extra caution. Personally, I think it is pointless to do this on a full progressive, especially since you are still doing the full prep on the cases.

 

With 223, I hate remington brass, way thin and even fully lubed, I have managed to get 2 cases stuck in the dies. PMC brass works very well though.

 

Granted, with the price of 223 at $6.50 a box, or if you are shooting steel cased at $3.79 a box, it is almost pointless to reload it, unless you want match grade ammo.

 

Reloading 223

 

Bullet $.10 to $.20 cents.

Powder $.07

Primer $.03

 

$.20 to $.30 cents a round, bulk or match (sierra bullets)

 

PMC = $.325 per round

Tula Bulk Steel Cased = $.1895

 

Personally, to me, I would rather pay 2 cents per round more, and not have to fuss with reloading 223. at $10 a box, there is a difference. Since I dont have a match grade 223, or a bolt 223, I find it pointless for myself, especially since the AK will fire steel cased stuff all day long.

 

308 now is a different animal. I shoot 308 out of a bolt gun, only one, for now, so my process is a bit different.

 

1. Tumble and Clean cases. (I do keep them seperated, so the same 20 rounds of factory ammo stay together, or by the number of loads)

2. Neck Size and deprime.

3. Check OAL, clean primer pocket.

4. Prime

5. Powder

6. Powder Check Die

7. Bullet Seat

 

For bolt guns, because the rounds are coming out of the same gun, I only use the Lee Collet dies, as the case is fireformed to the gun. Because it is neck sized only, you do not need to lube up the cases. Brass life is much longer, and I am now on around 6th or 7th reloads, and no signs of stress, still looks new.

 

On the turret, very easy to do this, and most of all, precision. Cost wise...

 

Bullet = $.25 for Sierra Match Kings

Powder = $.12 for 42 grains

Primer = $.03 at $30 a box

Brass = reloading the purchased commercial ammo, and range pick up ( range pick ups I do full resize obviously).

Even if purchased new, amortize over 6 to 7 reloads and yo uare at $.10

 

$.50 a round of match grade ammo, with brass life amortized. Versus paying $1 a round of Gold Medal Match.

What is the reason for sorting the brass my manufacturer? Would this be as important for handgun brass? I have a big container full of tumbled 9mm. Probably 2000 rounds worth. I'm wondering if I really need to separate it all out.

 

To me, it is not that important unless you are loading to the max or you are loading match grade ammo and need supreme consistency. Case capacity can differ by manufacturer. I have never done this for my pistol reloads. It is probably worth doing for my SAVAGE PC 308 though, but I have yet to do it.

 

case capacity is different between Military 7.62 and commercial 308, and so forth. I believe the correct thing to do, as I was instructed by Tim, is to lower the load by 10% when using military brass.

 

I just dont use military brass.

Frank,

 

 

I am in the process of beginning my search to start reloading. Since I shoot a lot of 9mm, .40 and now .223/ 556, I am interested in what the actual cost to reload will be.

 

I mean getting a box of pmc .223 is costing about $7 to my door, for 20 rnds. What do you expect your cost to be after you reload 20 rounds?

 

I am trying to see if it is worth reloading if I get the ammo cheap from cabelas.

 

Byr@n- I shooting the most expensive powder I ever shot. Varget.

Here it is... .07 for bullet, .035 for a primer and .10 for powder. Now I expect to have HIGH quality ammunition @ $.205/round or $4.10 a box of 20

What is the reason for sorting the brass my manufacturer? Would this be as important for handgun brass? I have a big container full of tumbled 9mm. Probably 2000 rounds worth. I'm wondering if I really need to separate it all out.

 

I don't sort brass(except crimped brass) for pistol rounds. Because #1 it's relatively lower pressure and #2 the variation in case volumn is minimal.

case capacity is different between Military 7.62 and commercial 308, and so forth. I believe the correct thing to do, as I was instructed by Tim, is to lower the load by 10% when using military brass.

 

I just dont use military brass.

 

My CMP Greek 30 '06 ammo is military. I believe the brass has thicker walls than civilian 30 '06, making for less case capacity and more pressure with the same powder charge. 30 '06 is a lower pressure round (especially when loaded for a Garand or my Springfield) than 308/7.62x51, so I don't worry about pressure and case capacity as much. Unlike the 7.62x51, a lot of that 30 '06(63mm) case is unfilled with powder. My 30 '06 brass should last me a really long time, even with sizing for the Garand.

If I take Tim's advice and use Trail Boss powder, it might last forever.

For 223 brass the difference between military and commercial brass is negligable. I use the same charge in both. As the case gets bigger, 308, 30 06 you need to reduce oads by 10% for military brass.

 

And I do love Trail Boss.

Here's today's results 25grs of Varget @ 100yds w/ a 55gr Montana Gold FMJ. Was actually raining today and I was having trouble seeing and even ended up shooting with both eyes open.

 

You guys know the rifle DPMS LOPRO w/ 16" bull barrel, w/ no comp and target crown. #4 lb trigger and a Millet 1-4x scope.

 

Now I know the pic of the primers is not that good. I think I'm running a little hot. I appear to be loosing the rounded edge on one side of the primer and it's getting pretty flat. I saved some of this load to chrono at a later date,

not bad. measure with a caliper?

 

would love to see it with sierra match kings.

 

what were you shooting it off? rest? bipod? prone or bench?

 

at dix, my groups close significantly shooting prone with bipod over sitting on bench with bipod as hte benches wobble.

not bad. measure with a caliper?

 

would love to see it with sierra match kings.

 

what were you shooting it off? rest? bipod? prone or bench?

 

at dix, my groups close significantly shooting prone with bipod over sitting on bench with bipod as hte benches wobble.

 

 

Maks- I was shooting off of sandbags and the bench was rock solid. Any human error was me. And I was having a little trouble with the lighting.

 

Extreme spread when measured with the caliber is 1.050"

 

How many gr are the Matchkings?

Because I'm running a COL of 2.257" and any longer is a problem.