If you where to build an AR from scratch which lower will you pick and why?

There are MANY MANY quality lowers so it kinda comes down to preferance. If I were starting a build tomorow it would be either Seekins or Vltor.

I just picked up a DSA blemished stripped lower for $60 plus ship ffl and nics and for the price there is a slight finish blem on the edge of the mag well that is maybe a quarter inch long and barely noticeable. Ill stick with the DSA for price.

DSA uses two companies for their lowers. LMT and Superior. Im not a fan of superior. They did me wrong on a deal. To add to that I have been told a number of times their quality is a bit below average.

I've put together stripped lowers from Stag, Spikes Tactical, RRA, LAR Manufacturing, and Sun Devil. It would be a toss up between the Spikes/LAR for which I thought were the nicest.

 

Depending on what purpose you are building the AR, depends on which lowers you should look at. A lot of people will tell you a lower, is a lower, is a lower. If you are building it for HD/SHTF - spend a few extra dollars. That would be my advice

So you have to get the lower through FFL....what about when it comes time for the upper?

So you have to get the lower through FFL....what about when it comes time for the upper?

 

Only the lower is considered the firearm. everything else can be shipped to your home.

Just make sure the upper is ban compliant (pinned muzzle device if need be, shaved bayo lug, and the barrel being over 16.1'').

You can always buy an upper that is not ban compliant, and send it to a place for the aftermarket work (too often do people get hung up on this fact and buy compliant uppers that usually run for more or are from companies I'd rather not buy from).

To name a few, PK90, one of our vendors, does aftermarket work, as do some other entities in NJ (I don't remember the name off the top of my head, though I'm sure someone can bring it up). Out of state, I trust ADCO myself.

Just make sure the upper is ban compliant (pinned muzzle device if need be, shaved bayo lug, and the barrel being over 16.1'').

You can always buy an upper that is not ban compliant, and send it to a place for the aftermarket work (too often do people get hung up on this fact and buy compliant uppers that usually run for more or are from companies I'd rather not buy from).

To name a few, PK90, one of our vendors, does aftermarket work, as do some other entities in NJ (I don't remember the name off the top of my head, though I'm sure someone can bring it up). Out of state, I trust ADCO myself.

 

Armament Gunsmithing does upper work to make her NJ compliant as well.

He's off of 22, literally

Hillside, NJ

I am thinking it's time to build my first AR and was looking at the S&W M&P-15 lower. Would it be good for a HD AR?

we just picked up a few spikes lowers from Aim for $80, and they are top notch and a great bang for the buck. I wish I picked up a few more.

we just picked up a few spikes lowers from Aim for $80, and they are top notch and a great bang for the buck. I wish I picked up a few more.

 

just ordered (2) from Spike y-day, $99 each!

Have any of you ever built a gun on the billet machined lower and upper sets?

Have any of you ever built a gun on the billet machined lower and upper sets?

Billet looks nice but it's more expensive than the forged pieces as well as structurally not as strong however this latter aspect isn't a huge deal as the majority of the stress that an AR experiences is contained to the bolt/BCG and the barrel/chamber.

 

In my opinion, a lower is a lower is a lower. The roll mark may change but as long as it's in spec, it's not a huge deal which brand lower you use. Now, if you're in possession of a RDIAS, you'd want to seek a low-shelf lower which has the material by the takedown pin milled out to allow the placement of the RDIAS but this is an issue for very few people.

 

Seek out a quality (read: in spec) lower made of 7075 aluminum with a T6 temper and proper anodizing and you'll be good to go.

Billet looks nice but it's more expensive than the forged pieces as well as structurally not as strong however this latter aspect isn't a huge deal as the majority of the stress that an AR experiences is contained to the bolt/BCG and the barrel/chamber.

 

In my opinion, a lower is a lower is a lower. The roll mark may change but as long as it's in spec, it's not a huge deal which brand lower you use. Now, if you're in possession of a RDIAS, you'd want to seek a low-shelf lower which has the material by the takedown pin milled out to allow the placement of the RDIAS but this is an issue for very few people.

 

Seek out a quality (read: in spec) lower made of 7075 aluminum with a T6 temper and proper anodizing and you'll be good to go.

 

Thanks for all the good info. With all the gimmicks around the important stuff gets a little lost.