So how do you fine Gents clean your revolvers? The tips of the cylinders are just filthy.. It's caked on so much that it won't come off. Does anyone have a special trick?

A brass brush may work if a tooth brush isn't rigid enough.

Their is a cleaning cloth called get the lead out.

 

found it at midway..

 

tipton.

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=623952

 

hoppes.

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=210734

I hate cleaning revolvers and they are technologically so primitive!

Revolvers are simple to clean being that we don't need to field strip them. I use bore mops which are about $1 a piece when you buy packs of 10. Bore patches are fine also. Just spray on, or dip into your favorite solvent and run it through the chambers and bore followed by dry patches. Nylon bore brushes work well if you need to get the lead out. I use toothpicks and Q-Tip's to get into crevices. Put a bore patch over the toothpick and dig. Clean the blue with scratch free towels, you know, the ones made for car paint and finish with a silicon rag before putting them away. Only gun oil, and no solvent at all on the blue parts.

I don't really mind cleaning my revolvers. Nothing to disassemble, no tiny pieces, just open it up and go at it. Kinda Zen.

 

The lead away cloths work great. Clean the barrel and cylinders just like any other gun, and wipe the face and back of the cylinder with the lead cloth. It should remove powder residue and burn rings. Make sure you clean the area around the forcing cone. I cut a small piece of the cloth and work it into the area between the cone and top of the frame with a small screwdriver.

 

I don't have any nickel finished guns, but I think the lead cloths adversely affect nickel plating. Double check before you jump in.

DO NOT USE LEAD AWAY ON BLUED GUNS. It will remove the finish. After a good shooting session, revolvers just require some elbo grease.

If it's a S&W, you'll find it easier if you remove the cylinder. Just open the cylinder, back out the lower, forward sideplate screw on the R/S and pull the crane straight out toward the muzzle. Much easier to hold to clean the chambers and face and around the extractor star. Without fear of "springing the crane".

 

Old School, you can keep your tactical tupperware, there's nothing finer than a S&W wheel gun....'nuff said!

 

HTH

 

Adios,

 

Pizza Bob

 

If it's a S&W, you'll find it easier if you remove the cylinder. Just open the cylinder, back out the lower, forward sideplate screw on the R/S and pull the crane straight out toward the muzzle. Much easier to hold to clean the chambers and face and around the extractor star. Without fear of "springing the crane".

 

Old School, you can keep your tactical tupperware, there's nothing finer than a S&W wheel gun....'nuff said!

 

HTH

 

Adios,

 

Pizza Bob

 

 

Bobby, Bobby, Bobby.... You just made a whoe bunch of burred crane screws...

 

I guess I told you I used to carry a S&W 19. Way to heavy for what it offered me. Give me a high cap auto or a 230gr Mack truck any day. BTW I seem to remember you w/ a compact 45....

BTW I seem to remember you w/ a compact 45....

 

That;s an ALL METAL compact .45 to you, sir...

Funny, I just did a complete cleaning of my S&W 686 last night including removing the side plate for the first time ever. She has about 1500 rounds through her of mixed calibers and while i clean the barrel and cyl, i;ve never cleaned or lubed the action. Was simple enough to do and the interior, while not too dirty, was devoid of any sign of lubrication. After hosing the thing down with cleaner and then greasing the action, the trigger pull is slicker than snot now! Wish i woulda done this earlier.

 

Oh and like the others said about the lead cleaning cloths, they work awesome on stainless. Any carbon fouling on the cyl face, sides and top strap is easily removed with a 1x1" square or two of the cloth. Don't use it if your gun is blued as they can strip the finish of as well.

You don't want to use abrasive too often on the forcing cone and cylinder face. There is a optimal cylinder gap. By polishing often, you are increasing that gap and basically simulating wear. The nice thing about blued guns is that you don't notice the residue as much.