I apologize for the new guy question but I'm just starting out on the mil surp hobby. I just picked up two rifles one which I'll be using surplus corrosive ammo. What method do you suggest for cleaning at the range just enough to stiff leg until I can detail at home?

Reason I ask is I've researched and most suggest boiling water which isn't a viable option when I'm out at CR shooting, unlike the guys who have the comfort of shooting in their backyard. Also seen windex as a suggestion, thanks.

Yep. Windex.

http://www.empirearms.com/clean.htm

You can leave it untill you get home and clean it, just do it the same day.

 

Everybody has their own voodoo as far as "nuetralizing" the salts goes. Who gives a crap about killing them, they can be "alive" and active all they want, just as long as they arent on my gun! Wipe em away with whatever and be done.

 

Heres me secret...

I clean as normal, at my liesure, when I get home! I clean thoroughly and in a somewhat timely matter but THATS IT! Sometimes I use warm water and a brush in the sink just because its easier for some guns/gas systems (AK) but for my mosin, tokarev, K98 I just clean as normal. They have sat in an average humidity environment for years after being cleaned like that with not a speck of corrosion.

 

 

 

Bolt guns are especially easy. Just clean the barrel and bolt face (and inside the bolt if you pierce a primer). With an auto you must clean everything the gas comes in contact with.

I use windex or boiling water. been shooting corrosive for years and have never had a problem.

Actually always wanted to ask - should I try to clean the magazine in Mosin or K98 every time? Does the corrosive stuff get in contact with the the magazines, followers etc.?

Another question - how do you clean the chamber? I spray it with one of the action cleaner sprays and follow with the usual routine while cleaning the bore, but not always sure if I cleaned it enough.

 

Thanks!

You can leave it untill you get home and clean it, just do it the same day.

 

This is what I do also.

 

There is nothing better to do this than water. The myth about Windex is derived from when they used to be ammonia in Windex and that's good for cleaning copper fouling. Windex is mostly water and contains no magic ingredient. Hoppe's #9 will also remove corrosive salts.

 

I've never found a rusty magazine due to corrosives salts in the priming compound although I suppose it could happen.

Forgot to add that if I use water I fllow up with...no!...heaven forbid!...WD40! WD40 was designed to displace water and this is a good use for it. After the WD40 I use normal cleaning materials.

I agree with what GRIZ says about windex not providing any additional cleaning capability beyond just water, however, windex will evaporate quicker which does reduce the potential for any leftover moisture causing corrosion. The hazard wit using straight water is that sometimes if you're not careful, it gets in places you don't want and can potentially cause some corrosion. Alternately, you can buy some MPro-7 which is formulated to clean corrosive residue. I've been using it for years with zero issues with corrosion.

windex will evaporate quicker which does reduce the potential for any leftover moisture causing corrosion.

 

True but all you need do is mix rubbing alcohol in the water to get the same effect. Or use WD40 which does it better as it displaces the water and doesn't just evaporate it.

I dont understand this myth that certain things are formulated to clean corrosive. Hoppes does nothing to kill the salts, reduce rust blah blah blah. what it does is acts as a vehicle to remove the salts just as ANY other fluid will do! Who cares what chemically happens or doesnt happen, as long as its off the gun!

 

 

PS, HOT water is used because it dries very very fast. Run it long enough to get the metal HOT too, and it will self dry. Compressed air also helps

I also heard a suggestion that the foaming cleaner for black powder guns is good for initial cleaning and actually removes the corrosive stuff.

Haven't tried yet...

I dont understand this myth that certain things are formulated to clean corrosive. Hoppes does nothing to kill the salts, reduce rust blah blah blah. what it does is acts as a vehicle to remove the salts just as ANY other fluid will do! Who cares what chemically happens or doesnt happen, as long as its off the gun!

 

 

PS, HOT water is used because it dries very very fast. Run it long enough to get the metal HOT too, and it will self dry. Compressed air also helps

There's no myth. It really just comes down to whats more effective. You can get something that is known to easily and effectively clean corrosive residue and clean it like any other gun and never worry about it again, of you can scrub it like a maniac with hoppe's or employ some draconian multistep process with boiling water, dousing, oiling, peanut buttering and eye of newting and spend more time cleaning than shooting. Petroleum based cleaners just don't effectively dissolve those residual corrosive compounds and while the physical scrubbing will dislodge some (but not all) deposits, it also may redistribute them. Water based and detergent style cleaners like Mpro7 and Slip2000 are all sympathetic to this process and although all the above things work but why not employ the most effective one and be done with it?

I dont understand this myth that certain things are formulated to clean corrosive. Hoppes does nothing to kill the salts,

 

There is something to being formulated to clean corrosive. The cleaner needs to contain water, ammonia, or if your a chemist you can answer this in detail, something that will chemically neutralize salts. Some fluids wash away the salt better than others.

 

http://www.surplusrifle.com/reviews2006/alittlesalt/index.asp

 

This is the best test I have ever seen dealing with corrosive cleaner. It's several pages long with photos. You'll see nothing is better than water.

Having just picked up my first(or any large bore rifle) Mosin 91/30 from a fellow Forum member(thanx) I did a little research on corrisive ammo cleaning and saw that same test.Did my own too- just drop a pinch of salt in water and swish it round it of course dissolves. Do it with Hoppes solvent, does nothing to it.Is the salt the same chemically? I figure when it come down to it salt is salt. IMO anything but water just wipes/smears the salts on the barrel lining. I just pour some hot water from my thermos down the pipe, run a dry mop and a quick wipe of Hoppes and take care of it properly at home.But lets face it, this rifle was designed and built to be somewhat abused more than pampered, give the gun a little credit.I somehow dont see all those wartime comrads getting all fussy and lovey dovey with their MN's,snipers excluded. Thats my newbie lecture on that. Next,t my first outing with it I put up 4-8" shoot n c's at 50 yrd. Damn, my eyes suck, sights and target all fuzzy. Maybe a scout scope, but thats another story. So I shoot a quick 15 rnds, was in a hurry for an app't. Not looking good only saw 3-4 on targets. Go to retrieve my target stand and found the rest of the shots just off and touching target in two seperate and very tight groups of 2". Guess the bullets on target were my flyers! Maybe theres hope yet as it was my first time. Yea, my shoulder hurts too. little different than my .22 rifle.

Having just picked up my first(or any large bore rifle) Mosin 91/30 from a fellow Forum member(thanx) I did a little research on corrisive ammo cleaning and saw that same test.Did my own too- just drop a pinch of salt in water and swish it round it of course dissolves. Do it with Hoppes solvent, does nothing to it.Is the salt the same chemically? I figure when it come down to it salt is salt. IMO anything but water just wipes/smears the salts on the barrel lining. I just pour some hot water from my thermos down the pipe, run a dry mop and a quick wipe of Hoppes and take care of it properly at home.But lets face it, this rifle was designed and built to be somewhat abused more than pampered, give the gun a little credit.I somehow dont see all those wartime comrads getting all fussy and lovey dovey with their MN's,snipers excluded. Thats my newbie lecture on that. Next,t my first outing with it I put up 4-8" shoot n c's at 50 yrd. Damn, my eyes suck, sights and target all fuzzy. Maybe a scout scope, but thats another story. So I shoot a quick 15 rnds, was in a hurry for an app't. Not looking good only saw 3-4 on targets. Go to retrieve my target stand and found the rest of the shots just off and touching target in two seperate and very tight groups of 2". Guess the bullets on target were my flyers! Maybe theres hope yet as it was my first time. Yea, my shoulder hurts too. little different than my .22 rifle.

 

I bought a recoil pad that replaces the metal on the butt. The difference is night and day.

Same - I have one too on my M44. Will probably get a slip on one for the 91/30.

the fun of the mosin is the kick!

Same - I have one too on my M44. Will probably get a slip on one for the 91/30.

 

Seriously, man up and shoot that baby like the commies did. If whimpy whimpy Glenn can shoot it, theres no reason you can't!

Any refferals for a certain recoil pad? (and dont say the one between my legs).

Any refferals for a certain recoil pad? (and dont say the one between my legs).

 

 

A steel spike

 

On a serious note, I hear limbsavers are great

+! on the limbsavers. Size SMALL will fit the mosin stock perfectly (the mosin butt-plate is very short in the height department) and makes it shoot-able for me past 50 rounds.

I can't imagine that the original owners of our Mosins took anywhere near as much care as we do and they've survived 70+ years. I run a few wet patches through mine, wipe the bolt face, and then clean as usual. The most important thing, as already said, do it soon after returning home.