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Dry fire and slide release technique

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I have been observing a lot of gun videos and gun shop guys handling hand guns and i noticed quite disparate techniques. Some dry fire without easing the hammer and release the open slide with a push of the release lever while others ease the hammer/slide into down/closed position.

 

What would you guys suggest as the right way of doing it?

Does it depend on the specific hand gun?

I have a CZ 75 SP-01. Should I follow a specific protocol to prevent accidental damage to gun components?

Most centerfire firearms are fine to dry fire. If it eases your mind you can use snap caps. Personally, I think I will be just fine dry firing.

Dry firing is fine. If there is a hammer, I ease it down because it cant hurt unless I am intentionally dry firing.

 

I never slam a slide foward. ESPECIALLY with the slide STOP. When I release the slide with or without ammo I pull back slide to release the slide stop. It is a slide STOP not a slide release! If the gun is empty I ease the slide foward because there is nothing slowing it down and again, even if it doesnt help, it sure doesnt hurt.

Dry firing is fine. If there is a hammer, I ease it down because it cant hurt unless I am intentionally dry firing.

 

I never slam a slide foward. ESPECIALLY with the slide STOP. When I release the slide with or without ammo I pull back slide to release the slide stop. It is a slide STOP not a slide release!

 

This can be debated to no end, but the short answer is that it depends on the pistol. To never use it when it may be intended to be used that way is ignorant.

 

I read about people saying not to do different things because it could cause this, or could cause that, but I am not sure I have ever seen or heard of this and that (damaged sear, broken slide stop/release lever, etc.) happening first hand. If I've heard it actually occurring at all it has been through a 3rd party, who more then likely heard it through a 3rd party themselves.

This can be debated to no end, but the short answer is that it depends on the pistol. To never use it when it may be intended to be used that way is ignorant.

 

I read about people saying not to do different things because it could cause this, or could cause that, but I am not sure I have ever seen or heard of this and that (damaged sear, broken slide stop/release lever, etc.) happening first hand. If I've heard it actually occurring at all it has been through a 3rd party, who more then likely heard it through a 3rd party themselves.

 

Dropping the slide on an empty chamber with a slide stop on a 1911/2011 pistol absolutely has a chance of ruining a nice trigger job.

 

Not sure about other models.

 

Do not see a reason to do it though.

  • Author

In a semi, the slide cycles with every shot. Is this different than manually free releasing the slide stop/release? It would seem that the semi action isn't much different.

The difference is with no rounds in the gun there is nothing slowing down the slide and it slams foward.

 

Thumbing the slide stop down thousands of times will peen the notch round at its bottom edge.

 

The latter is fact, the former is speculation. I'de rather not take the chance though. I'de like to pass my guns on after I'm gone, and being that im 22 years old, I may get 100,000 rounds + out of each of my pistols so little things like not using the slide stop will make a difference. It is no extra effort to do so, so why not?

In a semi, the slide cycles with every shot. Is this different than manually free releasing the slide stop/release? It would seem that the semi action isn't much different.

 

In the majority of guns, it is different. When the firearm cycles the slide goes all the way to the rear before coming foward. It therefore comes foward with maximum energy. The slide stop does not hold the slide fully to the rear. When you release the slide from slide stop, the slide does not come forward with full energy. Therefore, this may be a less reliable way of charging some handguns in some configurations.

 

Also, some people believe it may be unreliable to even manipulate the slide stop under stressful conditions due to small size, location, and diminished fine motor skills.

There are a thousand ways to do the same thing. One thing may cause this issue or another thing may create some other issue. If it's a museum quality piece, I probably will not be dry firing it and I certainly will be easing the slide forward. That said, my guns are tools to be used. I have used many tools in ways in which they were not originally intended.

 

For instance, I learned in one of my cars exactly which speeds I could shift the transmission from one gear to the next without using the clutch. It's possible, is it recommended? HELL NO! But it can be done, and once you know how, it causes zero damage as the gears are rotating at the correct speeds to engage without wear to either the gear or (obviously) the clutch.

 

Some say don't downshift it wears the clutch - others say downshift to save the brakes - which is right?? Arguments can be made for both approaches.

Some say don't downshift it wears the clutch - others say downshift to save the brakes - which is right?? Arguments can be made for both approaches.

 

if you know how to downshift and blip the throttle, it wears nothing

I think guns are made to be used and used rough.Not babied. A slide is meant and desinged to be used forcefully anything else will only cause malfunctions. even when empty. jm2cents

if you know how to downshift and blip the throttle, it wears nothing

 

The blip was for old Tran's but all the new ones are synchronized (Auto & Trucks not counting Rigs), you shouldn't need to blip it at all if your at the proper RMP's. The blip only help if you are still going to fast as not to drop the RPM's too fast, chip the tire, but again, then your not at the right RPM's :icon_e_biggrin: :icon_e_biggrin:

 

Harry

if you know how to downshift and blip the throttle, it wears nothing

 

Hence why I said there is an argument for both approaches... :rolleyes:

The blip was for old Tran's but all the new ones are synchronized (Auto & Trucks not counting Rigs), you shouldn't need to blip it at all if your at the proper RMP's. The blip only help if you are still going to fast as not to drop the RPM's too fast, chip the tire, but again, then your not at the right RPM's

 

i race my car, and i downshift both on and off the track. i always blip the gas. while not using the clutch is possible, it makes absolutely no sense to do it, as your motor wont be in the powerband once you happen to match speed/rpms.

Releasing the slide when empty can damage the extractor.

Releasing the slide when empty can damage the extractor.

 

Interesting, did not know that. Do you know of some common firearms this applies to? Not challenging you, want to know what to watch out for. Most of my firearms are pretty common (in civilian configs) and I never heard of this. Sounds like it might make sense, though.

This applies to most semiautos. You should let it slam when loading and there is a reason for that.

P.S. - dry firing a 22 is usually not a good idea because it is a rimfire and you can bugger the chamber.

i race my car, and i downshift both on and off the track. i always blip the gas. while not using the clutch is possible, it makes absolutely no sense to do it, as your motor wont be in the powerband once you happen to match speed/rpms.

 

 

very true, I don't drive anything with a clutch anylonger, but still have my Harleys, I like to know how each one like to shift with out the clutch up and down so when I am out in the middle of no where and I break a cluch cable and there ain't enough to use videgrips on to keep me going I can still make it someplace and not have to ride around in the same gear forever. :icon_e_biggrin:

 

Harry

This really depends on the gun, every one is different. With my HK45 I can abuse the hell out of it and it will not break (I don't, but Todd Peterson did for 50,000 plus rounds). Get some snap caps to save your firing pin.

This really depends on the gun, every one is different. With my HK45 I can abuse the hell out of it and it will not break (I don't, but Todd Peterson did for 50,000 plus rounds). Get some snap caps to save your firing pin.

 

 

 

I believe you're referring to Todd Louis Green of pistol-training.com

 

 

As for dry firing... I definitely prefer snap-caps. With my Glock, I only cycle the slide enough to reset the trigger but not enough to actually eject the snap-cap. With my USPC in DA/SA, I just set the hammer after each pull.

I believe you're referring to Todd Louis Green of pistol-training.com

 

 

As for dry firing... I definitely prefer snap-caps. With my Glock, I only cycle the slide enough to reset the trigger but not enough to actually eject the snap-cap. With my USPC in DA/SA, I just set the hammer after each pull.

 

Yep, Todd Green, got my wires crossed with another Todd. He's beaten the snot out of both a P30 and an HK45.

He's beaten the snot out of both a P30 and an HK45.

 

 

 

Yes he has! I've followed both tests very closely and the results were awesome.

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