i have saiga 7.62 x 39, and i have succesfully threaded my barrel for an ak74 style brake, now i need to pin and weld my brake to be nj compliant, whats best and easiest way of going about this? i have done everything on my rifle myself with the help of this forum so i really wanna do this part also, but incase i dont have the right tools how much might this cost at a smith?

Take it to PK90. He can do it for you. =)

be careful, if you have a pistol grip on the rifle already it is illegal with the threaded muzzle until you get something permenently attached

thanks for the tip, thats one the reasons i wanna do it myself at home, i brought my saiga from pk90 he is quite a ways from me, maybe someone more local?

will loctite red work?

no, only silver solder or welding are considered acceptable. Those are the standards the ATF uses, of course NJ doesnt define permenent although going by the ATF guideline would probably be a safe bet...

no pin needed just give it a good tack weld .

i read some where that if i tac weld it all i gotta do is 4 points 12 oclock 3 clock 6 oclock and 9 oclock or i just tac weld one half side. anyone in north bergen area with a tac weld i would like to get this done asap...

I have only seen a good tack on guns i have bought .

 

I'm not the best welder but if you cant find anyone take a ride up.

no, only silver solder or welding are considered acceptable. Those are the standards the ATF uses, of course NJ doesnt define permenent although going by the ATF guideline would probably be a safe bet...

 

ATF accepted blind pinning as well. SO drill and tap a hole and drill into the threaded part of the barrel some. Put ina grub screw, and cover with silver solder or a blob of weld and file it down to match the profile.

 

Brownells has some pretty trick silver solder paste that's not cheap, but is pretty easy to apply and qualifies.

 

I can say form experience there are high tech adhesives that SHOULD count. A friend used it on a set screw style smith comp that he ahd stripped the screw holes on. Getting it back off required mangling the comp. It was somewhere between the process needed to remove an armilite AWB blind pinned muzzle brake, and removing a silver soldered comp. Less dremeling than the former, less heat than the latter, but a huge PITA.

im going to check out harbor frieght near my house they got a mini tac weld machine for like 89.00, not bad. im gonna the blind pinn and tac weld it, it should be right?

I'de try and find someone with some more serious equipment than a little flux core MIG. If the machine you are looking at ONLY does tacks(spot welder), I believe it will only work on sheet metal.

Take it to paterson gun smith good prices and will have it ready in less then a week.. he did mine pinned jtac47 on saiga about a month ago

He will charge you less then what you pay for the mini tac weld machine.

buy the mig you will use it on other things !!!

 

gasles is fine if you practice with it. I went from a 90 amp out put to a 130 and now a 220 volt 190 amp out put .

 

 

It will splatter more with out the gas but you can buy a spray, I use tin foil and cover the area around the weld with it.

im in here now, whats the difference between flux, tig?

im in here now, whats the difference between flux, tig?

 

different type of welding do a google search

 

To do what you need a gasless mig will do the job .

 

Take a ride up one day and you can try mine !

I use mostly millermatic 350Ps but they are a little budget non-friendly lol, if you want to try one out feel free

 

http://www.millerwelds.com/products/mig/product.php?model=M00151

I can weld it for you if you cant do it. Mig or tig pic yer flavor

Anyone try one of those little inversion tig welders?

 

On another note, is it in the statute anywehere an actual weld requirement?

Man those welders can get up there in price, I'm passing on buying one, i don't think I would use it very much... Thank you for the offer guys but I would like to stay more local for this one threaded barrel + n.j.= big no no!!! Might end up at paterson anyone know the number and what he charges for this job?

Anyone try one of those little inversion tig welders?

 

On another note, is it in the statute anywehere an actual weld requirement?

 

IIRC the statute only says "Permanant" We all frankly ASSUME that the ATF standards from the federal ban are what is accepted, but there's nothing in writing from NJSP or the AG's office that says X,Y,Z is the acceptable standard.

Before I had the pieces to assemble the entire rifle, I 1200 degree silver soldered a brake on. Its not hard at all. Just do it with jewelers solder. Its easier to remove if you really really have to with a hot enough torch, but you still risk messing the barrel up.

I pinned my Saiga 308 like this..

 

 

Drill hole in bottom of brake (in a vise)..

 

then screw it on.. to proper spot..

 

drill JUST a dimple a HAIR into the bbl..

 

then remove the BRAKE..

 

then thread the BRAKE with SMALL TAP set from Lowes $6....

 

then screw in the allen head cap screw $1 from HD or Lowes(with RED loctite).

 

 

then CUT off the screw head flush..

 

 

Little weld on top if desired and DONE..

I pinned my Saiga 308 like this..

 

 

Drill hole in bottom of brake (in a vise)..

 

then screw it on.. to proper spot..

 

drill JUST a dimple a HAIR into the bbl..

 

then remove the BRAKE..

 

then thread the BRAKE with SMALL TAP set from Lowes $6....

 

then screw in the allen head cap screw $1 from HD or Lowes(with RED loctite).

 

 

then CUT off the screw head flush..

 

 

Little weld on top if desired and DONE..

 

Nice Job!

We can TIG weld a brake on for you, PM me for details if you still need it done.

Just pinned my AR brake for when I come into NJ..

 

I also used RED LOCTITE on the threads under the BRAKE..

 

here is a pic of the finished product..

 

 

Also after I pinned it, I covered the pinned area with QuickSteel for better looks than a rough weld spot.. quick coat of flat black on just the brake and voila'.

 

(bottom is facing UP and Left)

 

The trick when you pin like I did 3 posts up is to make sure you DON'T DRILL thru the barrel.. you just need to notch it for whatever 'pin' you choose to use to CATCH it..

 

 

Al

For a Quick-and-dirty home job, I've found the "Cav-Comp" from Cavalry Arms is about the easiest to do. The Brake itself is pre-drilled, and it comes with the correct size and length roll pin. As long as you have a steady Hand, and a good stop for your drill bit it can be EASILY done with a hand drill. Drill the correct size hole to the correct depth, tap in the roll pin and Spot weld over the top..Easy peasy and it took longer to get the welder set up than it did to do the rest of it. From bare to indexed, measured, drilled, pinned and welded took my neighbor and i about 30 Min start to finish.

For a Quick-and-dirty home job, I've found the "Cav-Comp" from Cavalry Arms is about the easiest to do. The Brake itself is pre-drilled, and it comes with the correct size and length roll pin. As long as you have a steady Hand, and a good stop for your drill bit it can be EASILY done with a hand drill. Drill the correct size hole to the correct depth, tap in the roll pin and Spot weld over the top..Easy peasy and it took longer to get the welder set up than it did to do the rest of it. From bare to indexed, measured, drilled, pinned and welded took my neighbor and i about 30 Min start to finish.

 

Thanks for the info!

I pinned my Saiga 308 like this..

 

 

Drill hole in bottom of brake (in a vise)..

 

then screw it on.. to proper spot..

 

drill JUST a dimple a HAIR into the bbl..

 

then remove the BRAKE..

 

then thread the BRAKE with SMALL TAP set from Lowes $6....

 

then screw in the allen head cap screw $1 from HD or Lowes(with RED loctite).

 

 

then CUT off the screw head flush..

 

 

Little weld on top if desired and DONE..

 

Option B ^^^^^ and Follow up..

 

these are the allen head Set screws that are 8-32 x 3/16".. TINY.. $.68/2 @ Hdepot. Crown SKU 030699731480

 

 

drill the hole in the BRAKE (off rifle) with #29 bit.. put on align brake on the rifle to where you want it.. drill a notch in the barrel..

 

then remove the BRAKE.. TAP the brake with 8-32 TAP.. then thread in one of these screws with BRAKE re-mounted..

 

then drop a weld on top of screw..

 

(Others have THREADED the Cav Comp hole and also threaded and screwed..)

 

Also note Lowes sells the 8-32 Tap & #29 Drill bit kit for like $6.. IRWIN Brand...