In my short experience I have learned a fewof things about what you need to know and the quirks of the 550B. I find these things out or I have a problem and my friend usually says "Oh yeah. I forgot about that." Here they are and I hope they help other newbies. Feel free to add some.

 

- The cotter pin for the Spent Primer Catcher Chute (SPCC) causes the SPCC to bind and jam it in the closed position. That is to say the top is closed and will not catch the spent primers. They shoot all over the place and like to land in the bin with your empty brass. Luckily, I spotted the spent primer in one of my empties. The thing to do is replace the cotter pin with a piece of wire. The SPCC will move freely.

 

- Check the Primer Punch for any debris. The Primer Punch presses the primer into the case. Not to be confused with the Depriming Pin. Any small piece of tumbling media, grain of powder or whatever will dent the primer. I keep a cotton swab nearby and wipe it off frequently. I have found that pressing the handle forward raises the punch which allows better cleaning.

 

- When using calibers with small primers, file a bevel the tip of the decapping pin ( this shape \_/ ). This prevents the spent primer from getting stuck on the pin and going back into the shell. This problem occurs with small CCI primers. It must have to do with the size of the hole in the avil being just the right size to allow the pin fit into it tightly.

 

- Watch out for Brown Bear brass. It is steel cased ammo that is brass plated. It looks like regular brass but it is Berdan primed. You can tell by looking into the mouth of the case. You will see two flash holes rather than one in the center.

 

- Check the headstamps of all cases. Look for military brass which usually has a two or four digit date and an an "X" in an "O". Military brass is crimped. Without removing the crimp, the primer will not fit. You can buyer primer pocket reamer but it's not worth the effect, scrap it. I also check for brands I don't like:

> Sellier & Bellot has tight primer pockets. I either scrap it or put them in a pile and load them together. The

primer will go in, but you have to really push.

> MFS, the primers don't always come out easily.

> A-Merc, poor quality brass. Scrap it.

> Any off brands I am not sure about. Headstamps are *I*, NUY, TZZ.

> Check for any cracked brass

> Carefully check nickel plated brass. It tends to flake and crack.

> Check for any flaws. When it doubt, scrap it.

 

- Put a 45ACP case on the primer follower. It helps the last few primers into the primer bar.

 

- Use 800 grit sandpaper on the plate under the primer bar. Put the sandpaper on a flat surface and rub the plate

gently around. You want to get it smooth. I had primers popping out because the primer bar moved erratically.

 

- Never force the handle! If it moves with more resistance than normal, something is wrong. It could be a Berdan

case, stuck primer in a case, a primer caught in the spent primer chute or a 45ACP case with a small pistol

primmer (thank you Federal).

 

- Before placing the bullet on top of a charged case, check the powder charge to be sure it is properly charged.

There should the proper level and not none or a double.

 

- Always check your powder charge weight before you start a loading session. Mic and case gauge the first few

rounds.

 

If I remember any more I will update the list. Add any I forgot or don't know.

- Put a 45ACP case on the primer follower. It helps the last few primers into the primer bar.

 

Mike - can you make a photo or drawing? This is the only one of your points that confuses me.

In my short experience I have learned a fewof things about what you need to know and the quirks of the 550B. I find these things out or I have a problem and my friend usually says "Oh yeah. I forgot about that." Here they are and I hope they help other newbies. Feel free to add some.

 

- The cotter pin for the Spent Primer Catcher Chute (SPCC) causes the SPCC to bind and jam it in the closed position. That is to say the top is closed and will not catch the spent primers. They shoot all over the place and like to land in the bin with your empty brass. Luckily, I spotted the spent primer in one of my empties. The thing to do is replace the cotter pin with a piece of wire. The SPCC will move freely.

 

- Check the Primer Punch for any debris. The Primer Punch presses the primer into the case. Not to be confused with the Depriming Pin. Any small piece of tumbling media, grain of powder or whatever will dent the primer. I keep a cotton swab nearby and wipe it off frequently. I have found that pressing the handle forward raises the punch which allows better cleaning.

 

- When using calibers with small primers, file a bevel the tip of the decapping pin ( this shape \_/ ). This prevents the spent primer from getting stuck on the pin and going back into the shell. This problem occurs with small CCI primers. It must have to do with the size of the hole in the avil being just the right size to allow the pin fit into it tightly.

 

- Watch out for Brown Bear brass. It is steel cased ammo that is brass plated. It looks like regular brass but it is Berdan primed. You can tell by looking into the mouth of the case. You will see two flash holes rather than one in the center.

 

- Check the headstamps of all cases. Look for military brass which usually has a two or four digit date and an an "X" in an "O". Military brass is crimped. Without removing the crimp, the primer will not fit. You can buyer primer pocket reamer but it's not worth the effect, scrap it. I also check for brands I don't like:

> Sellier & Bellot has tight primer pockets. I either scrap it or put them in a pile and load them together. The

primer will go in, but you have to really push.

> MFS, the primers don't always come out easily.

> A-Merc, poor quality brass. Scrap it.

> Any off brands I am not sure about. Headstamps are *I*, NUY, TZZ.

> Check for any cracked brass

> Carefully check nickel plated brass. It tends to flake and crack.

> Check for any flaws. When it doubt, scrap it.

 

- Put a 45ACP case on the primer follower. It helps the last few primers into the primer bar.

 

- Use 800 grit sandpaper on the plate under the primer bar. Put the sandpaper on a flat surface and rub the plate

gently around. You want to get it smooth. I had primers popping out because the primer bar moved erratically.

 

- Never force the handle! If it moves with more resistance than normal, something is wrong. It could be a Berdan

case, stuck primer in a case, a primer caught in the spent primer chute or a 45ACP case with a small pistol

primmer (thank you Federal).

 

- Before placing the bullet on top of a charged case, check the powder charge to be sure it is properly charged.

There should the proper level and not none or a double.

 

- Always check your powder charge weight before you start a loading session. Mic and case gauge the first few

rounds.

 

If I remember any more I will update the list. Add any I forgot or don't know.

 

Overall good tips Mike.

Mike - can you make a photo or drawing? This is the only one of your points that confuses me.

 

 

What Mike is referring to is the primer follower rod that goes on top of the primers when you have a low primer alarm installed.

Older machines may not have it or it might be an accessory.

 

See the rod going down the primer tube? If you put a case on top it makes it heavier and assures the primers flow.

- Use 800 grit sandpaper on the plate under the primer bar. Put the sandpaper on a flat surface and rub the plate

gently around. You want to get it smooth. I had primers popping out because the primer bar moved erratically.

 

Not familiar with all the parts of reloading machines just yet, but here is a little trick to get a real nice smooth and flat surface.

 

A piece of glass is probably the flattest thing your going to have that's nice and cheap also. If the surface is semi smooth and you just need to relieve just a small amount of material to get it true, you should be able to put some lapping compound on the glass and slide the part with even pressure in a figure 8 pattern. It may take a little while depending on the material you are working with, but it works very well.

 

Harry

Not familiar with all the parts of reloading machines just yet, but here is a little trick to get a real nice smooth and flat surface.

 

A piece of glass is probably the flattest thing your going to have that's nice and cheap also. If the surface is semi smooth and you just need to relieve just a small amount of material to get it true, you should be able to put some lapping compound on the glass and slide the part with even pressure in a figure 8 pattern. It may take a little while depending on the material you are working with, but it works very well.

 

Harry

 

The piece Mike is referring to is aluminum and cuts like butter. It tends to get nicked from misalignment at times, being so soft.

I just hit mine on a stone when the nick causes problems. When it gets bad I'll send it back to Dillon for a freebee

What Mike is referring to is the primer follower rod that goes on top of the primers when you have a low primer alarm installed.

Older machines may not have it or it might be an accessory.

 

See the rod going down the primer tube? If you put a case on top it makes it heavier and assures the primers flow.

 

 

ahh, mine has a big azz aluminum weight on the end of the rod - don't know if that was from the previous owner or because I have an OLD RL450

The piece Mike is referring to is aluminum and cuts like butter. It tends to get nicked from misalignment at times, being so soft.

I just hit mine on a stone when the nick causes problems. When it gets bad I'll send it back to Dillon for a freebee

 

Don't forget the black plate under the primer bar. All you want to do is polish it and remove any burrs. I used the counter top on my reloading bench. Old School has a good point. Occasionally inspect the primer bar for nicks, especially if the primers are popping out of the primer cup or turning sideways.

Nice, I keep hearing about Dillon, Lee, Hornady and the others have great service as it come to stuff like that, makes me feel good about not really having to worry about poor CS when making my choice on what to get.

 

Harry

Nice, I keep hearing about Dillon, Lee, Hornady and the others have great service as it come to stuff like that, makes me feel good about not really having to worry about poor CS when making my choice on what to get.

 

Harry

 

 

Just remember these Dillon's we are talking about are well used. My guess is I have 40,000 rounds through mine. And no BS, No adjustment, no parts.

These guys make miniguns for crying out loud!

Mike - can you make a photo or drawing? This is the only one of your points that confuses me.

 

Just in case, here are the photos of the primer follow with the case. I used a belled case since it fits over the follower easier.