My Saiga 5.56 is putting a massive dent in most cases it ejects. The trajectory of the ejected cases is very inconsistent and throwing them all over the place with some going almost straight up. I was wondering if anyone else has had these issues and can suggest a remedy. I'll put a picture of the brass up once I find it.

always happens with that rifle.. there are some simple fixes.. let me find that for you..

http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?/topic/17788-brass-denting-cure/page__hl__dent

http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?/topic/16781-valmet-ejection-buffer-works-great/

 

http://www.robertrtg.com/valmetbuffer.html

 

$45

Start shooting steel cased ammo, like the Saiga was designed to do, and you won't find if the brass gets dinged

 

Speaking of ejection.....my Saiga slings empty shell casings like that's what the rifle was designed to do. They go, consistently, about 15ft to the right. What's everyone else's experience?

Start shooting steel cased ammo, like the Saiga was designed to do, and you won't find if the brass gets dinged

 

Speaking of ejection.....my Saiga slings empty shell casings like that's what the rifle was designed to do. They go, consistently, about 15ft to the right. What's everyone else's experience?

 

 

brass + reloading > steel

 

IMO of course..

brass + reloading > steel

 

IMO of course..

This is like the .223 vs 7.62x39 debate. There's really no clear cut answer for every situation.

 

I believe that if you're just looking to sling rounds down range for fun, steel case is more than good enough. If you're really trying to shoot accurately, then yea brass case is going to perform better. But if you want to shoot incredibly accurately, like hole in hole accuracy, why start with a Saiga?

Most piston guns will have this "happy" ejection. I have had chewed brass on both my vepr and Sig 556. Best you can do..... Cheap fix. Will upload pics later. But... Go get those car door guards, and cut a small strip and put it on the edge of ejection port.

 

Brass will hit that and not metal. It will soften the blow.

This is like the .223 vs 7.62x39 debate. There's really no clear cut answer for every situation.

 

I believe that if you're just looking to sling rounds down range for fun, steel case is more than good enough. If you're really trying to shoot accurately, then yea brass case is going to perform better. But if you want to shoot incredibly accurately, like hole in hole accuracy, why start with a Saiga?

 

not every person reloading is reloading for accuracy.. some people reload to save money.. so my point was "$200" on wolf.. or "$200" on your own reloads.. I'll take the reloads because I am pretty sure I would take more care in production when compared to cheap bulk ammo.. not to say the russian stuff is bad.. it is all I shoot ATM.. while reloading does require a little initial up front cost.. it is pretty minimal if you are reloading for the rest of your life..

 

 

Most piston guns will have this "happy" ejection. I have had chewed brass on both my vepr and Sig 556. Best you can do..... Cheap fix. Will upload pics later. But... Go get those car door guards, and cut a small strip and put it on the edge of ejection port.

 

Brass will hit that and not metal. It will soften the blow.

 

this also works well and was one of the suggestions in the first link I posted.. some people just did not care for the look.. if you are using black edge guard I dont think it would really stand out at all..

yes, Black edge guard.

 

People actually care how they look shooting guns? Must be the same posers who shoot sideways/ghetto style.

 

(canting gun 45 degrees while shooting stronghand/weakhand is an effective way to shoot one handed. =) )

Thanks guys going to order that part to slide on there.

Thanks guys going to order that part to slide on there.

 

 

while there are cheaper solution that is probably the route I would take also.. glad we could help!

 

also give us a range report on it.. I for one would like to know how well it works..

while there are cheaper solution that is probably the route I would take also.. glad we could help!

 

also give us a range report on it.. I for one would like to know how well it works..

 

Same here. I dent the hell out of my .308 brass and honestly none of the cheapo solutions have worked for me for any length of time.

Same here. I dent the hell out of my .308 brass and honestly none of the cheapo solutions have worked for me for any length of time.

that deflector actually looks like it might not only protect the brass from hitting it may also push it away at a different angle.. if you reload maybe worth a try?

not every person reloading is reloading for accuracy.. some people reload to save money.. so my point was "$200" on wolf.. or "$200" on your own reloads..

 

5.45x39 spam cans, including shipping, comes out to 14.5 cents per round

 

7.62x39 spam cans Yugo, including shipping, comes out to 24 cents per round

 

5.56x45 comes out to 23.4 cents per round at 1000, Wolf

 

Now, maybe you can reload rounds for cheaper. But, how much cheaper? A couple cents?

 

If you're saving maybe what, 3 cents per bullet? You're looking at having saved $37 if you were to reload all 1260 rounds.

 

Now, I seriously doubt that the combined price of, let's say 5.56, 1000 rounds of brass cased, reloadable ammo, plus the cost of all reloading supplies and equipment, is less money than just buying a thousand rounds of Wolf/Bear/Tiger/Commie. And we're talking how much time to sit there and reload 1,000 rounds of ammo?

 

I really would like to see the numbers at work here. Nothing personal. I see people online always saying how cheap reloading is and how people do it to save money, but I just don't get it. It seems like little more than 3rd world slave labor for a couple bucks.

its kinda cool reloading your self. it turns into almost a hobby by itself. testing and tuning different loads and you get cheaper loads that are way more accurate than cheap factory loads and depending on setup people can pump out 1k in no time. i'm still in beginning stages so i take my good old time.

5.45x39 spam cans, including shipping, comes out to 14.5 cents per round

 

7.62x39 spam cans Yugo, including shipping, comes out to 24 cents per round

 

5.56x45 comes out to 23.4 cents per round at 1000, Wolf

 

Now, maybe you can reload rounds for cheaper. But, how much cheaper? A couple cents?

 

If you're saving maybe what, 3 cents per bullet? You're looking at having saved $37 if you were to reload all 1260 rounds.

 

Now, I seriously doubt that the combined price of, let's say 5.56, 1000 rounds of brass cased, reloadable ammo, plus the cost of all reloading supplies and equipment, is less money than just buying a thousand rounds of Wolf/Bear/Tiger/Commie. And we're talking how much time to sit there and reload 1,000 rounds of ammo?

 

I really would like to see the numbers at work here. Nothing personal. I see people online always saying how cheap reloading is and how people do it to save money, but I just don't get it. It seems like little more than 3rd world slave labor for a couple bucks.

 

you are somewhat taking what I said out of context.. the point for me.. and many people interested in reloading.. is that yes you MAY save only a few bucks.. but more importantly you are controlling the end product.. so when I said $200 on your own reloads.. or $200 in bulk wolf.. reloading (for me at least) is still more appealing.. because even though I may only save a LITTLE money.. I am putting out what I believe to be a superior product.. so I am getting a better product for less money.. granted with reloading there is an investment of time.. but since I enjoy shooting sports.. that would be time well invested..

I really would like to see the numbers at work here. Nothing personal. I see people online always saying how cheap reloading is and how people do it to save money, but I just don't get it. It seems like little more than 3rd world slave labor for a couple bucks.

 

The savings are dependent on what your reloading. I am just about to start myself but reloading is or can be a hobby within a hobby. Not only are there savings that can vary on caliber, but you can load them to your gun, or what discipline you are shooting. Now for USPSA for major you need a power factor of 165, no reason to shoot a PF of 180 and more if you don't have to. Also say I am shooting steel, I can load to a lower power factor to reduce recoil for quicker sight acquisition. All depends on your preference. Now for myself, I plan on starting with .40 S&W so there is a huge savings over factory ammo, 9mm will follow down the road. Now for my 7.62x54R, I am better off buying spam cans in my eyes, I at this time wont be loading for accuracy in that caliber, and I don't see the amount of prep work to be worth my time at the moment.

 

So it's all what you want to do, no one says you have to reload, but if someone want to and enjoys it, no need to knock it.

 

Harry

I reload because it's the only time my wife and kids will actually leave me alone for an hour or so. I frigging love being absolutely focused on making sure something doesn't blow up on my face.