I just replaced my EFI 5.0 motor with a carb setup..

 

I was able to get the car to crank.. but it just wont turn over.. definitely getting fuel.. sounds like it is getting spark.. started at least 1 0r 2 times.. but by the end of the night would not crank over...

sounds like it is getting spark

You sure its getting spark? Was the distributor put in correctly?

spray carb cleaner in the carb then turn it over ,, if it starts your not getting gas ,,if it doesn't start theirs no spark.

 

Was the old set up injected ? if so there may be conflict with the computer

I just replaced my EFI 5.0 motor with a carb setup..

 

I was able to get the car to crank.. but it just wont turn over.. definitely getting fuel.. sounds like it is getting spark.. started at least 1 0r 2 times.. but by the end of the night would not crank over...

 

Determining if you;re getting spark is easy.

 

Have someone who's otherwise unwary hold the spark plug boot and turn it over. You will have an audible answer fairly quickly.

 

If you can't find a victim, you can lay the plug somewhere on the metal part of the engine and have someone turn it over. You'll see it firing.

 

When you say it started, did it start or just pop a few times? Not to be condescending here, but are you sure you've got the right firing order?

 

my old 289 engine was 15426378 older 302s(81 and earlier) were the same. They switched to 13726548 because the last two cylinders7/8 firing at nearly the same time was hard and the rear main.

 

It's very easy to get a plug wire on the wrong cylinder. Make sure you're at TDC on 1 and check your wires with the cap off and the distributor at 1.

 

Next, you won't hurt it by going radical on the timing. Swing the distributor around in both directions at various increments and see if you get any life out of it.

 

With an electronic fuel pump, you generally don't have to worry about getting gas to the carb, but make sure there's some gas in there. Take the hose off and turn on the key pump it into bottle. Note, some pumps are very vigorous so make sure it won't splash back. Just make sure you've got pressure.

 

One other thing to remember, carburetors have accelerator pumps. Did you pump the gas twice before you turned it over?

 

What about the choke? I would Just flip it closed until you start getting some pops after you're sure you have ignition.

 

The last thing is just to make sure you're coil is getting constant voltage. With a meter and the engine in ON, you'll see voltage.

I'm going with your timing being off as well. It could be 180 degrees off.

I'm going with your timing being off as well. It could be 180 degrees off.

 

And as a note of caution...from experience...there's two things to remember with distributors.

 

1. Remember, when inserting the distributor, the rotor will turn about 1/4, so turn the rotor so it lands where you want it once it is inserted. You have to fiddle with it because the oil pump drive shaft doesn't always line up properly. Often you have to muscle the crank around some to get it to fall in.

 

2. If you pull the distributor, jiggle it as you're lifting it out. I've had the drive shaft lift out of the pump and fall back into the pan. Talk about pissed off. I had to lift the engine to drop the pan to get it out. I was not happy. Thereafter, I would take the rotor off, lift it a little, put a flat screwdriver under the retaining flange holding it off the engine and lightly tap the top of distributor shaft with a rubber mallet to make sure it was free.

What year car is this ?

 

engine same year ?

 

why did you make the swap ?

 

standard 302 or ho ?

 

couple things to remember, you may need to replace the existing ignition with a carb compliant ignition your computer may have controlled the timing advance.

 

pass side engine cylinder order, 1234, drivers side 5678 front to back.

 

firing orders as mentioned before.

 

windsor 15426378

HO and 351 13726548

firing order runs counter clockwise around cap.

sorry for the lack of information..

 

the car is a 1991 all the ECU and ECU wiring is gone.. there is an MSD box and all that... there is a holly carb.. I have a fuel gauge and can smell the gas.. it is getting gas..

 

not %100 about spark.. but the motor did kind of start at least once or twice..

 

302, .030 over.. aka 306

rebuilt gt40 heads

ford motorsports E cam 489/489lift

roller rockers

weiand intake

... MSD distributer

msd coil

ford racing plus wires

holley *650 or 750* i cant remember

high flow water pump

new rings/bearings in the bottom end

Mishimoto Aluminum Radiator

Mishimoto electric fan

Mishimoto silicone hose kit

 

C4

B&M shift kit...

B&M ratchet shifter

4200 stall

 

the motor is older but not sure how to tell HOW old

motor did kind of start

 

Kind of start? like "pop pop pop pop" like it was randomly firing on a cylinder here and there or a "Vrooommm" for a second then die? POP POP is usually indicative of very retarded timing and you're basically firing the plug when the piston is halfway down the hole.

 

I know when I switched over a TBI system to a carburetor system on one of my cars, I had put a wire on the coil that was only energizing the coil in the start position. Crank over, it would VROOOMM to life, let go and it died immediately.

 

I would put a volt meter across the terminals on the MSD coil and make sure it's got voltage with the key in the on position. If so, you're looking at a timing issue.

how do I know WHICH firing order I should be using..

it only ran for a second or two.. and my excitement negated my ability to pay attention to "how" the motor was running.. lol

how do I know WHICH firing order I should be using..

 

If I recall, it should be stamped on the intake manifold but that doesn't mean anything, it depends on the cam.

 

All E cams are 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8 firing order. The E303 cam is rated at .498 lift but you noted above .489 lift. Typo?

Who put the motor together? Has it been apart since it ran?

If I recall, it should be stamped on the intake manifold but that doesn't mean anything, it depends on the cam.

 

All E cams are 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8 firing order. The E303 cam is rated at .498 lift but you noted above .489 lift. Typo?

 

 

 

could be a typo to be honest I did not build the motor.. and am avoiding pulling it apart if not needed..

 

since I have the "other" 5.0 firing order on there.. I am going to assume that is part of my problem.. going to go try the firing order I did not try yet..

thank you for the help..

If you followed the firing order listed on the Weiand intake, that's certainly your problem. Not knowing which model you have, I browsed their selection and all have the older 15426378 order, which is wrong for an E cam.

 

You can always check by taking the valve covers off and and bumping the starter and watch the order in which the exhaust value opens(left of each pair on a SB ford as seen from side of car).

Dont forget that dist spins counter clockwise..

Firing order with the E-303 camshaft is 1372 6548. I have that same cam in my '90 Mustang. Old and obsolete, but it works.

 

Why did you get rid of the EFI setup? Unless the car is going to be a track-only race car, the carb will only hurt it (much worse drivablility). Also, you won't pass emissions, no way, no how.

 

 

My bet is your firing order is wrong, or your timing is WAYYYY off. You could have easily stabbed the distributor incorrectly. Turn the engine to ATDC on cylinder #1, and verify that the distributor rotor is pointing to the #1 terminal on the distributor cap.

no luck.. and unfortunately out of time.. moving in the am will have to make time later.. but thanks for the help..

 

car kind of cranked.. carb caught on fire (too small to be a problem.. lol) and big puff of smoke shot out carb..my guess is with all the screwing around the timing is all effed up now..

 

what is the next step? lol

no luck.. and unfortunately out of time.. moving in the am will have to make time later.. but thanks for the help..

 

car kind of cranked.. carb caught on fire (too small to be a problem.. lol) and big puff of smoke shot out carb..my guess is with all the screwing around the timing is all effed up now..

 

what is the next step? lol

 

Firing out the carb means you're way too advanced or the wires are on the wrong cylinders. Turn the distributor counter clockwise 1/8th turn and try again.

 

Too bad I'm not near by, I'm sure I could figure it out. I used to built and race small block fords.

 

Is the distributor vacuum advance or electronic?

what is the next step? lol

 

Give up and call a real mechanic?

This is why I like diesels, as long as you have fuel and compression it will run.

 

Is the distributor vacuum advance or electronic?

 

Good point. Make sure you disconnect the vaccuum advance line when setting base timing. Or disconnect the advance from the PCM, but I think you don't have a PCM anymore right? So make sure you disconnect that advance.

 

My advice to you is to go back to square one. Yank the distributor and the wires back out.

 

Take the spark plug out of cylinder one, stuff a paper towel in that hole nice and tight. have someone tap the starter in little bursts until the paper towel pops out, now you're near TDC on cyl 1.

 

Now put the plugs back in, set the distributor, and make sure the rotor is facing the right way and your wires are set to the right firing order.

 

Don't screw theh old down all the way down, and have someone crank the engine while you wiggle the distributor.

 

Once you get it started, make sure to hook up a timing light, disconnect the vacuum advance on the dist, and set the base timing.

Where are you located? I can get it running for you for a decent price, much cheaper than most shops would charge you. ASE certified mechanic.

Hah, you backfired it thru the intake. Carb's power valve is probably blown now.

Hah, you backfired it thru the intake. Carb's power valve is probably blown now.

 

For the last 15 years or so maybe longer. holley has had blowout protection on their carbs..

Their is a kit available to convert older carbs.

For the last 15 years or so maybe longer. holley has had blowout protection on their carbs..

Their is a kit available to convert older carbs.

 

 

No ****! Well that right there shows how old the documents I've read about carburetion is.

 

Then again, it's been over 25 years since most all auto manufacturers have used carburetors, so that advancement must've been implemented with aftermarket sales only. My experience is with OEM style stuff, which is also why the majority of my knowledge is with EFI.

Will be away from the car for a bit but thanks for all the input...