If I was to order a NJ illegal Upper (not really illegal until mounted to lower receiver), would a DIY Bayonet Lug and Muzzle brake job be enough to "convert" it to NJ legal?

 

Bayonet Lug - Grind/Cut off the Ears of the lug, so it would no longer function.

 

Muzzle Brake - Silver Electrical Solder, Copper Plumbing Solder, JB Weld.... will any of these methods suffice?

Or, do I need to perform a "true Weld" AND Pin the brake to the barrel?

 

Please forgive my terminology.

Consider it layman's.

You can grind the lug that's not a problem...all you really need to grind are the ears it just can't be capable of holding a bayonet. I believe soldering is no good. I know they have to be welded (permanent) on but I'm not sure if the pin is necessary. I've heard of other people welding them on without a pin. I mailed mine to Paul (pk90)at Arms and Ammo. It was about a week from the time I dropped it off at the post office until it got back in my hands...$40 plus shipping...and the work was solid!

Brake must be blind pinned or welded with 1100 degree silver solder.

FSB shaving off the Bayo..

 

 

 

 

Brake Pinning/Welding..

 

 

 

 

 

Brake must be blind pinned or welded with 1100 degree silver solder.

 

this.

4 equidistant spot welds brake to barrel, or 50% circumference weld brake to barrel is also acceptable.

nice work there ywhic, it looks super clean, I like what you did there, you should do a you tube vid...

Thanks all.

 

To recap.. I'd have to Pin OR Weld? Not both?

 

 

Would you say that the Pin, without weld, is sufficient.. and is also the least damaging to the barrel?

 

Although the brake pin/weld is meant to be permanent... which method provides the least permanent damage to the barrel?

 

Of the two methods, which one can be reversed, if and when I were to move to a free state?

(not just easy to reverse, but cleanest too)

 

I know.. kinda redundant questions.

Blind pinning consists of drilling a hole through the brake and slightly into the threads of the barrel. You then insert the pin and weld over the top of it. That's what makes it permanent. There's no damage to the barrel besides the threads.

IMHO.. if you do the screw method (using a setscrew) as I have demo'd.. and just tightem tje setscrew tight into the brake & barrel (without the dimple into the threads) it will not allow rotation (flat screw tip on a round surface).. then just tack weld on that and be done.. again IMHO.. You can later grind off the weld.. remove the setscrew with an easyout or cut a + head into the setscrew with a dremel and use a phillips screwdriver.. apply reverse pressure on the brake and the threads SHOULD straighten themselves out to get the brake off...

 

of course do what YOU think is correct..

 

I dimple my barrel usually.. but not always