Sitting around bored today and pondering about a trigger job for my Ruger GP100 to improve the DA trigger pull.

 

I've seen some youtube videos out there on what needs to be done, but I do not feel confident in my level of gunsmithing to take on this sort of project.

 

Looking for either first hand experiences with those who have had a trigger job done on their gp100, or can recommend a local gunsmith in the central nj area that could do the job ( and while on that subject, what should I expect to pay ? )

 

Only gunsmith I am aware of in my area is @ NJ Firearms guild, I haven't heard any feedback on the mans work, and with the extremely inflated prices the store has to begin with, im not sure if NJFAG may be the best choice, thoughts?

 

Thanks, Now im off to order a few hundred more rounds of 38spec.

 

-Alec

Alec, is the trigger pull that bad? I'm just saying, maybe shoot her this Saturday at Old Bridge and then decide.

Alec, is the trigger pull that bad? I'm just saying, maybe shoot her this Saturday at Old Bridge and then decide.

 

 

It's bearable, From what I read it's about 11 pounds out of the box, and it feels like it. Just like to improve where improvements can be made. It most definitely has a spot during the DA pull that lightens up alot right before the end of the pull, I dont know if it's like that on all revolvers, but I have a feeling that it throws me off a touch. Hoping that if I ever get a Trigger job done on this it'll make the pull a bit more ' consistent ' with whatever the new pull weight is.

 

 

I'll be bringing her out for PPC on friday night and the steel event on sat. morning.

It's bearable, From what I read it's about 11 pounds out of the box, and it feels like it. Just like to improve where improvements can be made. It most definitely has a spot during the DA pull that lightens up alot right before the end of the pull, I dont know if it's like that on all revolvers, but I have a feeling that it throws me off a touch. Hoping that if I ever get a Trigger job done on this it'll make the pull a bit more ' consistent ' with whatever the new pull weight is.

 

 

I'll be bringing her out for PPC on friday night and the steel event on sat. morning.

 

I have been looking into a revolver and it is between the GP10O with the intent on turning it into a ppc gun. My only worry with sending the GP100 to a local guy as opposed to a Ruger specialist is that if someone inexperienced takes off a little too much material the gun needs to go back to Ruger because they do not sell replacement trigger parts. I'm not saying its likely but it is something to be mindful of.

11 pounds isn't that bad at all, shoot the steel match with her and then decide.

Mine is an older model and used but it's definitely not 11 pounds. I would be concerned with my revolver being to light.

I know someone who has had their gp100 done up for USPSA.

 

He had a heck of a time finding someone who was willing to accommodate him. There aren't that many decent revolver smiths around these days, and almost all of them are S&W guys. IIRC it wasn't local, and it wasn't fast, but it was a nice improvement over stock.

 

If I see him at this weekend's match, I'll try to remember to ask.

Check out this sight: http://www.grantcunn...unsmithing.html

 

Clark custom gunsmithing.

11 pounds isn't that bad at all, shoot the steel match with her and then decide.

 

Now that you shot both mine and yours yesterday, what do you think?

Now that you shot both mine and yours yesterday, what do you think?

 

I think I like the smith, minus the light primer strikes. And me hitting the targets.

have you considered just changing the main & trigger springs? they're only a few dollars and fairly easy to do. They come in a assortment pack from Wolf and I believe Midway (or Brownells)has them ,I did it a ways back on my GP100 and it did make a small dif.- that and a hi-viz sight. Worth a shot and a heck of a lot cheaper than custom smith work.BTW- the action will smooth out over time at least mine did.

Check out this sight: http://www.grantcunn...unsmithing.html

 

 

his sight says no new work/2 yr wait!

He has free kittens!!

After feeling how much smoother the da trigger in rays 686 trigger Ive bee thinking about maybe trading in the gp100 for the 686.or selling the gp100 and buying a smith. While both guns are comprable and the gp100 is a good gun, I think the 686ay be a better platform to start with.

 

I need more handgun practice and better fundamentals, I've been shooting nothing but rifles all summer long.

After feeling how much smoother the da trigger in rays 686 trigger Ive bee thinking about maybe trading in the gp100 for the 686.or selling the gp100 and buying a smith. While both guns are comprable and the gp100 is a good gun, I think the 686ay be a better platform to start with.

 

I need more handgun practice and better fundamentals, I've been shooting nothing but rifles all summer long.

 

Since this forum is actually doubles as a sales representative for Smith & Wesson, I'll go against YOUR thinking. Keep the GP100. It's built better than the 686, period. Didn't you notice the issues I was having with light primer strikes? I might have to send it in. Keep the GP100, you'll thank me later.

Didn't you notice the issues I was having with light primer strikes? I might have to send it in. Keep the GP100, you'll thank me later.

 

 

Ray, if you are still having light primer strikes with the strain screw turned all the way in (tight) then someone has messed with it. Have the same issue with my 646 (two failures to fire in appx 120 rounds w/WWB). I am changing ammo to Federal (softer primer cups) and expect that will solve the problem. I really like my trigger the way it is. Most competitive wheelgun shooters use Federal primers. And most stock S&W's will ignite any primer.

 

HTH

 

Adios,

 

Pizza Bob

Ray, if you are still having light primer strikes with the strain screw turned all the way in (tight) then someone has messed with it. Have the same issue with my 646 (two failures to fire in appx 120 rounds w/WWB). I am changing ammo to Federal (softer primer cups) and expect that will solve the problem. I really like my trigger the way it is. Most competitive wheelgun shooters use Federal primers. And most stock S&W's will ignite any primer.

 

HTH

 

Adios,

 

Pizza Bob

 

I did, and it MIGHT have corrected the problem. We had both guns (the 686 4 inch and the GP100 4 inch) on the table dry firing and I didn't think his trigger was that bad. I haven't shot mine yet so we'll see how I feel with it.

I am much happier with the GP100 now that I replaced the springs, threw in a 8 lb trigger spring, and 10 lb hammer spring. Everything is much smoother, more crisp and a bit ligher.

 

Best 10 bucks i've ever spent, easy to install too.

Shooting her tomorrow?

Shooting her tomorrow?

 

 

yah, the gp100 and my Ruger mark 2 if Im feeling up for two guns

 

Hoping I shoot better this time around.