Got this Wasr-10 from Walt at H-Town Guns and Ammo couple months back, but something was missing so decided to Spruce it up a bit here is the progress, I'm a noob to the forums so all I know how to do is attach the photos. Wanted to share it with you all on the progress, my only regret was to take more pictures, but was more excited just to get this ak done with.

The finished Product

Looks nice.

looks great ! but i need better pictures .

walk us through it

Nice job.

looks great ! but i need better pictures .

walk us through it

 

No Tanks! More details please.

Used Pilkington's rust blue solution and got two carding brushes off of Brownells. Had Lodi Welding build me a pan 1/8 inch thick 40x5.5x5.5. Followed Larry Potterfield's video on youtube and used Birchwood Casey blue and rust remover to strip the finish off of the Wasr. This is 5 applications. Once the rifle was stripped with the agent, I used a dremel and some of the steel polishers to remove some of the hard to reach places of the finish. Removed the muzzle nut with a dremel carbide cutter or whatever it was. Bought a new slant brake from Tapco and a Unfinished Timbersmith stock. Put red food coloring on the stock and then applied the Sedona Red Minwax stain followed up with some rub on poly. Got the stock done first and then degreased the rifle with acetone and boiled in distilled water for 30 minutes before applying the first coat of rust blue. Then waited an extra hour or two before applying a second coat then after another hour I boiled it for about 45 minutes, carded and repeated the steps. This was 5 applications. The slant brake did not take finish as well as I would have hoped, but nothing is perfect. After all the boils and carding were done I applied Boiled Linseed oil to the rifle and let it sit for another hour so the bluing could soak in it. After that I welded the slant brake on to make it nj compliant and the put the stock on it. It took awhile, but it came out looking good.

Used Pilkington's rust blue solution and got two carding brushes off of Brownells. Had Lodi Welding build me a pan 1/8 inch thick 40x5.5x5.5. Followed Larry Potterfield's video on youtube and used Birchwood Casey blue and rust remover to strip the finish off of the Wasr. This is 5 applications. Once the rifle was stripped with the agent, I used a dremel and some of the steel polishers to remove some of the hard to reach places of the finish. Removed the muzzle nut with a dremel carbide cutter or whatever it was. Bought a new slant brake from Tapco and a Unfinished Timbersmith stock. Put red food coloring on the stock and then applied the Sedona Red Minwax stain followed up with some rub on poly. Got the stock done first and then degreased the rifle with acetone and boiled in distilled water for 30 minutes before applying the first coat of rust blue. Then waited an extra hour or two before applying a second coat then after another hour I boiled it for about 45 minutes, carded and repeated the steps. This was 5 applications. The slant brake did not take finish as well as I would have hoped, but nothing is perfect. After all the boils and carding were done I applied Boiled Linseed oil to the rifle and let it sit for another hour so the bluing could soak in it. After that I welded the slant brake on to make it nj compliant and the put the stock on it. It took awhile, but it came out looking good.

gun looks good..

hope that brake is welded on..

gun looks good..

hope that brake is welded on..

 

If you read the post that you quoted:

 

"After that I welded the slant brake on to make it nj compliant "

 

I know its part of the process but I couldnt stand seeing my gun rusty like that LOL I'de have heart palpitations

gun looks good..

hope that brake is welded on..

 

 

After that I welded the slant brake on to make it nj compliant and the put the stock on it.

ah missed it.. my error..