Well, that's open to debate, as I'll be assembling the lower myself and most likely be putting on an already put together upper. I'm curious to see if (1) it's cheaper than a store-bought rifle, (2) as reliable, (3) and what's involved and how the rifle works.

 

I've had a stripped lower sitting around for a while. I bought it when the big rush for AR stuff was going on 2 or so years ago, so I probably over-paid. I was upset with the LGS I bought it from, since he did not tell me the fire/select lever had a 3rd setting for FA/tri burst. I was waiting for a knock on my door. But I see you guys with the NJGF lowers have that too, so fingers are crossed that it's okay.

 

So, today I ordered some parts from Brownell's. Lower parts kit from DPMS, an ARFX skeleton stock from Double Star, and a recoil buffer assembly. Also ordered a tool to install the front pivot pin to avoid launching it across the room. While I'm waiting for this stuff, I'll decide exactly what I want to put on top of it. Probably a 16" barrell, as I already have a 20" HBAR Bushmaster. Feel free to offer suggestions or advice.

 

So I'll update with photos when stuff starts rolling in and starts to resemble a rifle.

 

To be Continued...

Check

 

Www.t3chsolutions.com/ar15.html

It's not that hard to do - I assembled my first one early this year and had no issues

 

I just got a new stripped lower from the NJGF buy so now I have to put together another one

It's not that hard to do - I assembled my first one early this year and had no issues

 

I just got a new stripped lower from the NJGF buy so now I have to put together another one

 

I was looking at that thread, I might get one at some point to have for another build. Maybe a target/varmint rifle in .204 Ruger.

 

BTW, is that Grant Imahara (sp?) the Mythbusters nerd in your Avatar?

No, that's me... and Brian O'Halloran....

_{Oh, okay...wasn't implying anything...(removes foot from mouth)}

You're actually not the first person to say that

Is a 14.5" barrell with a compensator pinned and welded to make 16" legal, or will I be asking for trouble?

That's legal.

Is a 14.5" barrell with a compensator pinned and welded to make 16" legal, or will I be asking for trouble?

 

this.

 

If you already own a 20" ar i would go for the 14.5" + muzzle break = 16"

Maybe go for a light weight configuration. This way you have two nice purpose specific ar's.

Check out BCM, they have some good stuff in stock right now, but they tend to run out quick.

 

Also the select fire modes dont matter, the sear inside is what matters. If you have a semi sear, you will never be able to move the selector into burst/FA.

(Using my best Mr Burns voice) Excellent!

In the same boat as you op. Just ordered lower parts myself. Good luck

 

For my upper I have been planning on a light weight 14.5+MB as others have suggested.

 

A few other tools I have seen recommended were pin specific punches and roll pin starter punches aside from the tool you were talking about. Also a few sites that people have suggested are as follows:

http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_4/226782_Assemble_your_own_LOWER__UPPER__FREE_FLOAT__TRIGGER__GAS_BLOCK___Step_by_step_instructions_.html

http://www.itstactical.com/warcom/firearms/diy-ar-15-build-introduction-parts-and-tools-required/

 

Adios

Wayne

it doesn't really matter what you decide to do. you're going to end up buying multiple ar's/ parts just like the rest of us

A box from Brownell's showed up today...

Take care to support the Trigger Guard 'ears' when installing those roll pins.. the ears can SNAP if not supported.

 

About 1/2" of soft wood strips works for me usually... though now they have a BLOCK they sell to do it.. for like $60

Regarding upper receiver assemblies, what's the difference between M4, carbine, and mid-length?

M4 ussually has to do with the feed ramps leading to the chamber, almost 99% of new uppers have them, they aid in loading the next round from mag to chamber. If your barrel has m4 feed ramps make sure the reciever has them and vice verse. However, M4 can be an ambigous term for an ar-15 with an adjustable stock(or just smaller and lighter then normal), just keep that in mind. Carbine and mid-length have to do with the gas DI system. Its the placement of the gas block on the barrel. I believe carbine is around the 8" mark, while midlegth is around the 10" mark . Carbine is shorter, while midlength is longer(but runs smoother and allows for a longer sight radius). Weight is negligible between the 2 because of the unlimited hanguard and barrel options. I can find lighter 12" handguards then some 7" ones, and the barrels all have to be atleast 16" long. I personally see no benefit to a carbine unless your building a SBR, but somepeople love them.

So midlength M4 should have the updated feed ramps, should cycle smoothly, and have a longer sight radius, then? If so, I think that's what I want.

Just ordered the complete upper from Accessory Arms. Good guy, answered all my dumb questions.

what did u end up ordering if i may ask?

yes post what you ordered. I will be ordering from them, PSA, or BCM

Progress...

 

 

 

And here's the upper

 

I ordered the upper with the bolt carrier group and with the rail on the gas block. I'd like to put a red dot on this, but I'll have the option to go with iron sights as well. I also ordered the Magpul MOE handgaurds.

Just a warning - If it's the low profile gas block, you'll need a front sight that is for low profile gas blocks.

I believe there was a note that it was on a different plane compared to the upper.

Yes - so make sure you get a front sight that is meant for gas blocks.

 

This is the one I have:

http://www.skdtac.com/Midwest-Industries-Flip-Up-Front-Sight-p/mid.101.htm

Troy also makes a quality flip up sight for the gas block rail

The upper receiver that I ordered from Accessory Arms arrived today. Excellent build quality, they even installed the hand guards I ordered for it. I'll post up some pics in a little bit. Just got home and having dinner.

pics of the upper ASAP!

 

edit: jumped the gun on that lol

The finished product.

 

 

 

I just put the carry hanndle/rear sight on because I think flat tops look funny. Still deciding which red dot to install.

Just an FYI for you builders out there....BEFORE You go spending money on a specialized tool for setting the front takedown pin, Go to Lowes or Home Depot, and spend $0.79 on a 1/4" clevis pin. This will do the EXACT same thing as the $10+ tool from Brownells....too bad i found out about this AFTER i already bought the commercial one.