I an looking to put this on my next AR-15 build.. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/124926/yankee-hill-machine-muzzle-brake-phantom-5m1-aggressive-1-2-28-thread-ar-15-parkerized ... it is a muzzle break so I can have it...

 

Anyway I dont have a drill press so I can pin it so I was looking to silver solder it. Has anyone done this before? How did you do it and what did you use?

 

I would really like to do this myself because I like the satisfaction of working on my own guns.

 

I would like all the imput I can have.

 

And this is legal right?

you have to find the solder paste .

You can do it with a hand drill ,, I plug the hole with a mig welder .

If your ever up my way you can use my drill press and I can weld it for you , I'm not the best welder but with a little clean up with a dremil and cold blue your up and going

I've talked about this to peeps before and Ted please jump in. Clock the comp. Mark where you want the pin. Remove the comp. Drill the hole in the comp. Reinstall the comp drill through the hole you drilled to JUST A LITTLE MORE THN THE ROOT OF THE THREADS. Insert pin and here is the controversial part....Silver solder the surface of the pin to the comp. This is pemament. Refinish the area.

 

Now this only works as far as I'm concerned if your barrel is already in excess of federally legal minimum. If you are comping a 14.5" barrel to 16"+

I believe there are federal guidelines about melting temp of the attaching material.

 

Now if you were considering fluxing the theads an silversoldering the comp on like that, I think you may get some discoloration of the parkerizing.

Yes Frank ,, you just typed it in better detail .

I would ad just paint the brake to hide the silver solder

Yes Frank ,, you just typed it in better detail .

I would ad just paint the brake to hide the silver solder

 

Yep! I've got the pen...LOL

Yea I would just like to do the whole think with silver solder only because I dont have acess to a drill press yet and I dont plan on just doing 1 barrel. I have a propane torch and I can but the silver solder and whatever else I need. Just wondering the process and if anyone has experience with this and can explain it to me

Yea I would just like to do the whole think with silver solder only because I dont have acess to a drill press yet and I dont plan on just doing 1 barrel. I have a propane torch and I can but the silver solder and whatever else I need. Just wondering the process and if anyone has experience with this and can explain it to me

 

I think you are making a mistake. Engage the help of some one with a drill press. Here's a deal. Clock your brake, mark it, send it to me, I'll drill it.

You install it, pin it and solder over the top of the pin.

I'm not a gunsmith, nor do I play one on t.v., so take this for what it's worth...

 

Silver solder is very soft. If you are doing nothing more that a slip-fit, the pressure of the round passing by will, probably, loosen it over time. Your comp will most likely end up down range someday. The pin, on the other hand, is most likely at least as hard as the surrounding metal. The solder is just holding it in and isn't taking much of a beating. Your compensator will most likely stay put.

 

Me, I would drill it and plug weld it with a mig. It's easy. I, personally, wouldn't be afraid of using a hand drill. It's how motorcycle hardtails are slugged together.

 

Good luck.

 

C

I'm not a gunsmith, nor do I play one on t.v., so take this for what it's worth...

 

Silver solder is very soft. If you are doing nothing more that a slip-fit, the pressure of the round passing by will, probably, loosen it over time. Your comp will most likely end up down range someday. The pin, on the other hand, is most likely at least as hard as the surrounding metal. The solder is just holding it in and isn't taking much of a beating. Your compensator will most likely stay put.

 

Me, I would drill it and plug weld it with a mig. It's easy. I, personally, wouldn't be afraid of using a hand drill. It's how motorcycle hardtails are slugged together.

 

Good luck.

 

C

 

Absolutely Ludicrous!!!!!!

 

In free states comps and flash supressors are only screwed on. No pin No Weld.

He said "slip-fit".

He said "slip-fit".

 

Missed that Paul...

 

Even slip fit silversoldered is no issue.

I'm actually in a bit of a dilemma myself. I have a break..pre drilled, i will drill into the threads, i have a pin for it... i have located a friend who works with welding, but he does mig. I have read to only do a tig weld. I know he can weld, but im afraid about this whole mig and tig stuff and whether or not its worth bring to a respectable place where i know it will get done right.

 

I would personally try and pin it vs soldering, especially if someone is willing to drill it for you. I would send my barrel out to get welded if i dont find someone local. There comes a point where i would rather have it done right then try and do it myself.

Is it legal to silver solder over a pinned muzzle break?

Is it legal to silver solder over a pinned muzzle break?

Yes, as long as the barrel is 16" before installation. Actually, there is no law or guideline stating what is legal.

Yes, as long as the barrel is 16" before installation. Actually, there is no law or guideline stating what is legal.

 

Thanks Paul, I was waiting for you to chime in. That was my take on it as well.

I may go that rout then. \... could I possibly get in trouble for having a barrel that is threaded shipped to my house?

I may go that rout then. \... could I possibly get in trouble for having a barrel that is threaded shipped to my house?

NO. Be discrete and nothing will come of it. You are not breaking any laws unless someone see's that your have all the necessary parts and tools to assemble the gun. Just buying a threaded barrel is perfectly legal.

Yes, as long as the barrel is 16" before installation. Actually, there is no law or guideline stating what is legal.

Wouldn't it have to be 16" after assembly?

So there is no problem buying a threaded 14.5" barrel and sending to nj as long as its taken to a gun smith to have the appropriate brake permanently installedTo make it at least 16"?

As a person with absolutely no knowledge on this material, I feel it my duty to chime in.

 

USE GORILLA GLUE GUISE, TOTALLY LEGIT. Haha just kidding, though honestly, that stuff would probably hold it better than the silver solder would.

 

I guess this is not the advice you're looking for, but it may be worth it just to take it to a local gunsmith. I considered dimply soldering it on, but you have to keep in mind the state we live in. If you screw it up, and someone tests to see how permanently it's attached on there, and it comes off, you're in deep trouble. Not to mention if you get it professionally done, you can keep the invoice, showing that you got it done, so in the event something goes wrong, you can show that you followed the laws. I know some places, such as Arms-N-Ammo do a really good job for $20, which is a pretty cheap price IMO, especially since you have proof you did it legally, you'll likely have a better job done, and you save yourself the trouble.

Silver solder is very soft. If you are doing nothing more that a slip-fit, the pressure of the round passing by will, probably, loosen it over time. Your comp will most likely end up down range someday. The pin, on the other hand, is most likely at least as hard as the surrounding metal. The solder is just holding it in and isn't taking much of a beating. Your compensator will most likely stay put.

 

Dude, you do realize in free America, those thing stay I place just being screwed on. Maybe with a little lock tite.

I may go that rout then. \... could I possibly get in trouble for having a barrel that is threaded shipped to my house?

 

Look, technically , by the book, if you have all the other parts to build/assemble an AR all at the same location (your home) then yes, technically you could be charged with constructive possession of what NJ considered an "assault weapon" under the NJAC definition (evil feature list).

 

To stay within this state's F'ed up laws, technically you should not have the other AR parts at home when you receive the threaded barrel from UPS. If you are getting a 14.5" threaded barrel, you are better off having the place you purchase it from pin/weld the brake before sending it to you (as in buying a complete upper this way). The reason being, SBR's are also Federally regulated NFA weapons, so that could be playing with fire both at State and Federal levels... again if you have the rest of the parts to build an AR in the same area....

I have to agree that having a 14.5" threaded barrel and having other AR parts on hand, no matter how pure your intentions, could be twisted into some BS case costing you thousands in legal fees for never actually committing a crime. I have lots of AR parts, a drill press and other dangerous tools, and because of this, I always have the proper muzzle device already attached when it arrives at my place of residence. Plus, places like Del-ton do a nice job of hiding the pin job and will essentially put on whatever NJ compliant device you want on it. Or a company like EGW in PA is a good company to work with.

real silver solder is NOT soft. its used on high temperature, high pressure lines including medical gas. you may be thinking of regular soft solder you use on house plumbing. silver soldering is called brazing. they come in sticks, not on a roll. you cant do it properly with just a propane torch. to do it properly, you heat the metal till it glows cherry red, then apply the solder, letting the METAL melt the stick, NOT the flame. if you do it any other way, youre doing it wrong.

Well with a muzzle device, you usually buy the correct silver solder paste and use that. Still have to heat things up to over 1000 degrees.

Because we have adding to this topic with more knowledge about metals them me I have a question(s).

 

Will heating the barrel beyond 1k degrees change any of the physical / meturallical (spelling?) properties of the barrel? How about discoloration from a limited distance from where the heat is being applied?

 

I'm thinking pinned and tack weld is the way to go the more I read this.

Because we have adding to this topic with more knowledge about metals them me I have a question(s).

 

Will heating the barrel beyond 1k degrees change any of the physical / meturallical (spelling?) properties of the barrel? How about discoloration from a limited distance from where the heat is being applied?

 

I'm thinking pinned and tack weld is the way to go the more I read this.

 

Objectively, yes, it should. BArrels aren't that hard, and air cooling anneals it, so I'm guessing it isn't that big a deal. Going by research I did regarding some DIY knife making, 1095 annealed hovers in the RC30 neighborhood. Most barrels are RC20-30. Even so, you may want to use some form of heatsink. It will likely discolor the barrel regardless of precautions.

 

I don't know why Echo Mirage thinks you can't use a propane torch with a decent nozzle design. They get more than hot enough. Worst case, get one and use MAPP gas instead of propane.

 

And yes, they come in sticks, but how do you get stick into the threaded area? You don't. which is why you use something liek this

 

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=6647/Product/STL-1205-SILVER-BRAZE

 

Or this stuff (under hard solders there are syringes with pre mixed contents with specific melting temps, not the stuff at the top of the page).

 

http://www.shorinternational.com/Solders.htm

 

Another factor is that although brazing may have the least tool investment, it's a bit of work to undo should you need to repair something. With a pin and weld, especially if you go small with the pin and not too hard, you can mill out the pin and do it agin with a slightly larger pin. Or jsut cut the muzzle device off carefully with a dremel.

 

Brazing, you ahve to reheat the thing up again sufficiently and get it off while it is hot.

real silver solder is NOT soft. its used on high temperature, high pressure lines including medical gas. you may be thinking of regular soft solder you use on house plumbing. silver soldering is called brazing. they come in sticks, not on a roll. you cant do it properly with just a propane torch. to do it properly, you heat the metal till it glows cherry red, then apply the solder, letting the METAL melt the stick, NOT the flame. if you do it any other way, youre doing it wrong.

 

Silver Soldering and Brazing are not the same thing at all. They might both be considered hard soldering but the temperatures, flux and materials are different.

 

I believe the difference between "soldering" and "welding" is that soldering bonds the materials together with a metallic compound (be it lead, silver or brass) that fuses the pieces together under high heat and welding joins the pieces together by actually melting the pieces together with a filler material which makes the pieces as one.

I have a tig and a mig, so if anyone needs something welded in Bergen county let me know.