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M&P 15 SPORT FRONT A2 SIGHT TOWER

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I have my mind on the M&P Sport and I was looking at the limitations of upgrades (as it sells). One of which is the front site that really limits selections of handguards of different sizes/styles. I'm not a big fan of the A2 style sight to begin with. It would seem that the only way of removing these and putting a low profile gas block on is to also remove the muzzle break (another PITA) to slide the sight off. How difficult would it be to cut/grind the tower down to make it a low profile gas block?? First off, it would be free to do and I could use aftermarket flip sights for both back and front. Plus the thought of the sight being in view of any optics I would use would drive me nuts.

 

I think it is amazing how cheap you can turn a low budget priced AR like the Sport into a higher end with just a few cheap parts.

 

 

EDIT: I just found this tutorial a little over half way down but it is with the sight removed. Has anyone ever done this with the sight on the barrel?

 

http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_4/226782_.html

I have my mind on the M&P Sport and I was looking at the limitations of upgrades (as it sells). One of which is the front site that really limits selections of handguards of different sizes/styles. I'm not a big fan of the A2 style sight to begin with. It would seem that the only way of removing these and putting a low profile gas block on is to also remove the muzzle break (another PITA) to slide the sight off. How difficult would it be to cut/grind the tower down to make it a low profile gas block?? First off, it would be free to do and I could use aftermarket flip sights for both back and front. Plus the thought of the sight being in view of any optics I would use would drive me nuts.

 

I think it is amazing how cheap you can turn a low budget priced AR like the Sport into a higher end with just a few cheap parts.

 

Very Easy... get Dremmel, cut off sight tower above the gas block assembly, polish, blue, and done.

I did it once with a hacksaw and bench grinder plus cold blue. It's only aluminum so it's not bad.

 

If you grind it down far enough and get a longer handguard you don't even need to blue it.

  • Author

I did it once with a hacksaw and bench grinder plus cold blue. It's only aluminum so it's not bad.

 

If you grind it down far enough and get a longer handguard you don't even need to blue it.

 

I was thinking of taking the handguard from carbine to middy. Not sure yet. It would give me the option to free float as well, correct?

If you go free float you haqve to change the barrel nut.

  • Author

If you go free float you haqve to change the barrel nut.

 

Which I am assuming won't fit over a low profile block?

Troy, and Samson / Rainier Arms all make free float tubes that attach to the stock barrel nut.

 

http://troyind.com/%...attlerail-alpha

 

http://www.samson-mf..._Evolution.html

 

http://www.rainierar...rms_rainierarms

 

Cool Didn't know this stuff was out there. Priceier than standard freefloats but it does solve a problem.

  • Author

Thanks for all of the replies. I just found out that the shops near me only sell the M&P 15 Sport without any muzzelbrake. So I guess that that would solve the problem by allowing me to just slide the site off and get a low profile block instead of chopping it.

Thanks for all of the replies. I just found out that the shops near me only sell the M&P 15 Sport without any muzzelbrake. So I guess that that would solve the problem by allowing me to just slide the site off and get a low profile block instead of chopping it.

 

Getting the old block off is not trivial. The A2 block is held in with pins. The low profile are held with set screws.

 

 

I was thinking of taking the handguard from carbine to middy. Not sure yet. It would give me the option to free float as well, correct?

 

I'm pretty sure you have to free float or else what is the handgruard going to lock into on the muzzle end?

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