I picked up a Spike's Tactical stripped lower from Lou's Gun Shop last Saturday. I'm debating between building an upper or building one. What do you suggest?

 

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What do you want to do with the rifle. If you are looking to do something purpose specific, where you have limited, or no good off the rack options, then by all means build. For instance, if you are looking to make a true multi-gun rifle upper and dont want to play JP prices, building is the best option. If you were to try and build a multi gun rifle from an off the shelf upper, by the time you change out the barrel, handguards/float tube, and bolt carrier group, it becomes cost prohibitive.

 

If you are just looking for a good all around upper for range use, there are a few very good manufacturers.

if you have the ability to perm attach the muzzle break it would probably be more beneficial to assemble it yourself. having the muzzle break perm attached can cause tons of headaches if you want to change out your forend for a FF rail since some of them have their own special barrel nut. I dont think theres really a major difference in price though unless you really search around.

It would a range/HD gun. Can an upper be assembled without buying a lot of AR specific tools? I don't personally know anyone who has built their own AR upper to borrow tools from. Another thing holding me back from definitely building is that I wouldn't know where to go to get the muzzle break permanently attached.

 

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Don't think you need too many specialized tools, maybe just the AR armerors wrench/tool (can be found for $20-$40).

 

Go check the DIY/Build-your-own Stickies at ar15.com There's a couple step by step posts with pictures.

 

FWIW... I'm just buying a complete upper (w/ BCG) from AccessoryArms for my build. They will pin/weld the brake before they ship it to me. I was going to build my entire AR from scratch... but decided to save some time for this build. The next one I'll build complete. (Maybe. )

I'd say just buy a pre-assembled upper.

Just a note.. if you decide to build use caution with BILLET uppers.. some have square front edges that won't allow certain FF/Quad rails to mount up without some dremel-fu to the anti-rotation tabs and such..

 

Armorers wrench, vise block (clamb shell type), Torque Wrench, Vise with at least 3 1/2" jaws.. patience & good lighting..

Now, I'm leaning more towards getting a BCM upper receiver group and BCG.

Grab the BCM upper (while you can) and grab the Spikes BCG from Aim for $110. somewhere along the line grab a matching/proper set of MagPul MOE handguards..

 

I run this abomination.. LoL.. BCM 14 1/2" BFH (Hammer Forged) Midlength on a PSA lower.. all MOE'd up..

 

 

and this cheezy 18" 1/8 twist SPR.. LoL..

 

 

of course the Troy Extreme on there is discontinued and mine stripped out.. so I await the new 15" Troy Alpha (FREE replacement from Troy C.S.)..

 

also changing the Levang Linear Comp to the KIES Master Blaster Comp.. since I had to destroy the old one that was pinned.

Thanks. Does it matter if I get a mid-length or carbine length upper receiver group?

If 16" go Middy.. if 14 1/2" go Carbine.. (this is subjective to my personal OP)..

 

BCM offers the PWS FSC556 OPTION with pin/weld for $110.. which isn't bad at all..

 

Make sure to get matching length handguards..

 

I can run Tula in my 14 1/2" BCM Midlength but the last round doesn't ALWAYS lock the BCG back all the time.. A carbine would more than likely not do this.. then again I should know better than run super-bottom-bucket TULA..

 

Break in with NATO PMC or Federal NATO Brass before venturing into the steel cased ammo arena..

 

I do run Wolf WPA Mil-Classic for like $4 box with 0 issues..

I'm debating between these two BCM upper receiver groups.

 

BCM Standard 14.5" M4 Carbine Upper Receiver Group w/ Permanent A2X Flash Hider (16.1")

BCM Standard 14.5" Mid Length Upper Receiver Group w/ Permanent A2X Flash Hider added

 

I wish I better understood the difference between midlength and carbine. I've read that some people can't tell the difference between midlength and carbine and yet others can feel more recoil from the carbine.

Mid lenght carbines are the new thing. Before it was full length gas system and carbine gas system. The mid-lenght is a "good" inbetween. You get the reliability of the full length system with the reduced size of the carbine.

Here is some good info...

 

http://www.survivalistboards.com/showthread.php?t=211266

Be careful.. you can't legally have the BCM A2X FLASHHIDER in NJ..

 

The other option is to get the Carbine and get an H2 (or H3) buffer to slow things down on the recoil..

Be careful.. you can't legally have the BCM A2X FLASHHIDER in NJ..

 

The other option is to get the Carbine and get an H2 (or H3) buffer to slow things down on the recoil..

 

+1 Good catch

Be careful.. you can't legally have the BCM A2X FLASHHIDER in NJ..

 

The other option is to get the Carbine and get an H2 (or H3) buffer to slow things down on the recoil..

I thought flash hiders were ok. According to this thread, they're not illegal.

 

Flash hiders are not illegal in NJ. They are only illegal if they are accompanied by 1+ more evil features on a semi automatic rifle with a detachable magazine. You can have an unpinned flash hider on your AR if it didnt somehow have the pistol grip, or if it had a fixed magazine. For example, the springfield M1A is allowed to have a flash hider because it has 0 other features.

The problem is your have an AR with a detachable mag and pistol grip.. so no flash hiders.

 

If you didn't have a pistol grip (or a fixed non-removable mag) on your AR you'd be ok..

 

My Bushy (as noted in that post later on had a special comp/brake that looked like a flash hider).

They're not illegal by themselves, but they are considered as an evil feature on semi autos with removable magazines. You'd have to get one of the compensators/brakes instead (2nd link - PWS FSC556 or Battle Comp BC 1.5).

From BCM's list you'd have to go with the PWS FSC556 and have them pin/weld that. that would be GTG for NJ.

 

You'd still have to remove the bayonet lug upon receipt.. because thats an EVIL feature too according to NJ law.

 

see this pic of my BCM 14.5" Middy I got last fall.. before..

 

 

After..

 

I would just like to add that there are MUCH cheaper brake options out there. Especially from JSE Surplus. I got my upper through Old School from JSE - 16" carbine w/ a YHM Phantom 5M2 brake.

or have the supplier ship the upper to AA with the std A2 flash hider.

 

get this service for $69. which covers the pin/weld and bayonet removal.

 

and while ordering that.. grab this YHM Brake/Comp for $26.. and have them use that for the above service.. (less than $100 total)..

 

I know BCM (most others) doesn't do the service of Bayonet lug removal.. hence the combo pack..

 

This would incude shipping the upper back to you complete and ready to go. (and compliant).

 

ArmsNAmmo (sponsor) and ADCO also does this also.. FWIW..

 

**ETA.. I'll make it $80 flat (down from $96) if you want to do it.. and ship it back to you..