Well, I guess years of not cleaning my shotgun have finally caught up with me. Took my ted williams 200 to range 14 yesterday to shoot some skeet. Trying to help my noob buddy break a few clays I decided to spin open the choke down to maybe improved from extra full.

 

 

This was the first time I've tried to spin it in years and lo and behold its stuck really good . I let it soak in a jar of hoppes9 to no avail.

 

 

anyone know how to take one apart or how I could possibly fix it? I was going to saok it in chemtool but then i figured it would eat the bluing and that would be bad as well...

Soak it for a week or so in penetrating oil (hoppes is useless for this).

 

Then try wrenching it off. If that doesnt work, apply heat to the ring (not the barrel).

 

If that still doesnt work, try flowing some ice cold water down the bore while you lay down some more heat on the ring and wrenching then.

 

If that doesnt work..... well then I have no clue

you think its rust stopping it up and not carbon or power residue? Suppose thats probably the case. I was hoping it was just fouling as the bore looks pretty rust free.

 

I'll get a jug of some blaster and let it soak, I would really like to mix up some 50/50 acetone/atf but again im worried about the finish.

 

 

I don't know how I could wrench it without chewing it to schreds... the only think that would work is a money wrench.

 

BTW, I hear this is just a whinchester 1200 with ted williams inscribed instead of winchester. Anyone know if I can use model 1200 accessories on this? I would love to get a pistol grip stock and mag extension.

It's probably rust. I've had the threads in a choke tube very lightly rust over and make it difficult to remove, while the rest of the barrel is perfectly clean.

yea, ugh I hope I can get it loose by hand becuase I know a wrench is gonna jack this thing up...

Do you have a choke tool or are you literally trying to spin it out with your fingers?

its a polychoke.......lol

 

My gun is exactly the same as this one http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=272783665

After doing some quick checking, it apprears its not a polychoke by brand, but you get the concept lol.

Use a strap wrench. It will not mar the threads.

And then use some anti seize compound in the threads after u clean the threads up.

good call on the strap wrench!, I'll definitly try that.

 

 

Is there a way to actually remove the choke? If I get free maybe I can get it off and do a better job of cleaning it between the fins and everything

also, anyone know if acetone will damage gun finish blue?

try some kroil its amazing

I've tried it, good stuff but i've found atf and acetone works better on bolts at least...

Acetone is safe on blued guns.

Thanks, I'll give that a shot . the atf/acetone works wonders on bolts and seized turbo's

Spray with ob blast, apply hear to.choke, it should get larger, metal ezpands then dunk.into a bucket of ice water..... Metal shrinks, then try

kroil or pb blaster penetrating formula last time I got some they had 3 or 4 types

Use a strap wrench. It will not mar the threads.

 

What Dan said and be VERY CAREFUL of any heat. Poly-Choke used to suggest soft soldering the bodies on.

 

Use something like a Rigid strap wrench with the Nylon strap.

i had this problem on someone's shotty once, there's a choke cleaner that i used to free it. i'll check the name when i get home.

thanks man

Saw it off!

Some conundrum to be in. As others have suggested, try the penetrating oil first. This is what I would try first:

1. Liberally soak the inside and try to get the penetrate into the threads for a few hours
   
2. Remove the barrel and mount the barrel securely in a bench vise
   
3. Take a piece of hardwood and tap around the periphery of the threads and then put the piece of hardwood square on the face of the muzzle and tap against it with a hammer. Once should be enough. "Tap" is defined as something less than a "rap."
   
4. With either a strap wrench or an adjustable pliers (NOTE: if using an adjustable pliers first wrap a piece of thick leather around the knurling to protect it from the face of the pliers' jaws, ) twist the adjustment collar off in what should be a counter-clockwise direction.
   

If this doesn't work, try the heat method others have recommended but with care.