Hi. I'm new to the world of firearms and recently received my NJ ID card and 1 handgun permit.

Since the handgun permit is good for 90 days, I'm looking to get that first.

 

My primary objective is home defense. I have a preference for revolvers due to reliability, something like a S&W 38 special would do.

 

I've read that used S&W revolvers can be a good buy. Do you need to be an expert in order to know if a given revolver is in decent condition? Should I look at internet sales?

 

Thanks

A lot of local shops have used revolvers for sale, call-around. You will also find a TON on Gunbroker. Do you want a .38-only or a .357 that will also shoot .38?

A revolver is a great first handgun. I would suggest a .357, this way you can shoot .38's and .357's from the same gun.

If youre looking at a used revolver, their are a few things that you can do to check its condition. First make sure the cylinder is locked into position and see if it has and play/rotation while its in its locked position. also check for any endshake by trying to move the cylinder forwards or backwards. You can check for flame cutting, which is common in some guns, by looking for erosion of the top strap, right above the forcing cone.

 

Wait for pizzabob.

A Smith and Wesson 686, a double-action revolver w/ a 4" barrel, and maybe in stainless, would be a nice gun to get, especially if you are not planning on practicing too often. A Ruger GP100, or even a Ruger SP101 w/ a 3" or 4" barrel would be a nice alternative. For a home defense gun a 4" barrel would probably be about optimum, however, a 3" barrel might give you more versatility. If you get the SP101, I would consider getting aftermarket larger size Hogue grips for it. Something like a Taurus 66 revolver would also be a nice option.

 

If you are going to commit to practice at least once a month or so, I would suggest consiering a quality semi-automatic in 9mm. There are plenty of options for this. The classic example might be a Glock 19, which I highly recommend. It is durable, easy to clean and there are parts and options plentiful for it, it is resistant to rust and corrosion and it has a very dependable track record. However, the Glock and many of the other choices may not have a safety on them, which may or may not be a consideration for you. You have to keep your finger off the trigger. I am also a fan of the Ruger SR9C and the Stoeger Cougar.

 

Other ideas might be: A SIG SP2022, SIG P250, Beretta 92A1, S&W M&P 9, CZ 75B, or Springfield Armory XD9. Just remember that you are limited to 15-round magazines in NJ, and many full-size options might only have 10-round magazines available to you.

 

Really, you should try to handle and/or shoot as many of them as possible. Bring your permit with you when going to gun stores to checkout your options.

 

If you choose a revolver, I would get a .357 Magnum, that way you would have the versatility of both a .38 and a .357. Keep in mind, though, that the cheapest larger caliber defensive ammo is 9mm.

There is nothing wrong with buying a used gun in good shape. First off, you probably won't know exactly what is best for you and there may be some trial and error there. Guns, like cars, depreciate once they become used and if you buy a used one, then you aren't taking the hit. Typically, you will get it for a good value and if you decide to sell, maybe you will come out about even.

 

I might suggest you bring someone knowledgeable with you when purchasing.

If you're new to the world of firearms then buy new unless you know someone that can help you inspect a used gun.

when the sales guy tells you it's been a safe queen or it's lightly used, don't take his word for it.

inspect inspect inspect

Some good advice in the posts above. EBS pretty much covered what to look for with a revolver, aside from the obvious visible problems like corrosion, buggered-up screws and the like. While I think everyone should own a revolver (or a few ), you have to first determine what you intend to do with the gun. Do you really want a wheelgun or do you want it because you think you can get it cheaper? Will this be your only gun (it could happen) or are you planning to acquire others down the road? Strictly a range gun or are you going to want to play games?

 

If you commit to a revolver, and learn to shoot it well, you will be well served for any future gun you choose. In the single-action mode (assume the OP is interested in a DA revolver), you can learn about grip, stance, sight picture, trigger let-off, breathing - all the basics. Then you can move on to double action to really challenge yourself with trigger control and sight picture while making that long DA stroke. A revolver is harder to shoot accurately than a semi-auto, unless time is not a factor and you shoot it all in SA mode.

 

Consider both types of guns before you choose. The firearms mentioned in the posts above are good starting points.

 

@ Patriot Oak - you'd be hard-pressed to find a non-stainless 686 - the first 6 is a designator for a stainless frame. A 586 would be the blued version and a 386 would be the lightweight (alloy frame) version. There may be some exceptions, but none come to mind right now.

 

Adios,

 

Pizza Bob

If money is not the issue, buy new. Warranty and no unknown history.

 

I see you mentioned you want a revolver for reliability. Don't discount quality modern semi-auto (autoloader) pistols such as Beretta, Glock, S&W M&P, HK, etc.. They are just as reliable with much more capacity.

Get a revolver or two.......... Here are a few of mine, hard to resist buying them every 30 days.

 

 

Home defense, 4" 686 is nice, or a Ruger.

Thanks for all the replies and info.

 

re semiauto vs revolver -

I like that the revolver is "point and shoot" and simpler mechanically. I may leave it a long time between firings and I've read that revolvers take better to that. I tried a few 9mm's (Glock, Beretta, 1911) and all recoils felt "top heavy" to me i.e. the muzzle would flip up and it would take me a while to get back on target. I liked the Glock the best of the three.

 

re revolver types -

I've tried a 4" S&W 686 and liked the feel and recoil, but the DA trigger felt hard to pull. I need to try it some more to see if I can get used to it. I've read DA is recommended over SA for home defense. 4" seems like a good barrel length, long enough for accuracy/power and short enough for close quarters.

 

re 357 -

I'd consider a 357 but don't want to pay much more for it since I feel more comfortable with 38+P for indoor home defense.

 

re new vs used -

I'm hesitant to drop $750+ on a new 686 or comparable gun, when I don't know how long I'll stick with my first purchase, and a used gun will depreciate less if I want to get rid of it later. If I went used, my preference would be to buy local and bring an experienced friend to inspect.

re semiauto vs revolver -

I like that the revolver is "point and shoot" and simpler mechanically. I may leave it a long time between firings and I've read that revolvers take better to that. I tried a few 9mm's (Glock, Beretta, 1911) and all recoils felt "top heavy" to me i.e. the muzzle would flip up and it would take me a while to get back on target. I liked the Glock the best of the three.

 

Try a Beretta Px4 Storm - rotating barrel system definitely lessens the recoil. OR alternatively try a heavier full metal gun (Like a 1911 in 9mm) to compare.

I would not hesitate to buy a used revolver for a home defense gun, especially something like a smith and wesson 686 or the like, even a used 20 year old s&w will probably still be going " bang " even after you and I are long gone.

Just so you know. A 357 revolver can shoot 38special.

 

Also, a new revolver such as a S&W 687 will not depreciate that much if anything at all. Firearms in general do not depreciate like cars. I have sold a Beretta 92 used for more than I bought it new. Just saying.

 

Just so you know. A 357 revolver can shoot 38special.

 

Also, a new revolver such as a S&W 687 686 ...

 

Fixed it for you. Had to have been a typo. No such thing as a 687.

 

 

Fixed it for you. Had to have been a typo. No such thing as a 687.

 

Yes, it was a typo. 686.

 

@ Patriot Oak - you'd be hard-pressed to find a non-stainless 686 - the first 6 is a designator for a stainless frame. A 586 would be the blued version and a 386 would be the lightweight (alloy frame) version. There may be some exceptions, but none come to mind right now.

 

Deep down, somewhere I knew that. I am not too terribly knowledgeable about S&W revolvers. I am particularly fond of Ruger Speed Sixes, though. But, I wouldn't ever turn up a nice Smith revolver... 686, 625, etc.

czzzz

Thanks for all the replies and info.

 

re semiauto vs revolver -

I like that the revolver is "point and shoot" and simpler mechanically. I may leave it a long time between firings and I've read that revolvers take better to that. I tried a few 9mm's (Glock, Beretta, 1911) and all recoils felt "top heavy" to me i.e. the muzzle would flip up and it would take me a while to get back on target. I liked the Glock the best of the three.

 

re revolver types -

I've tried a 4" S&W 686 and liked the feel and recoil, but the DA trigger felt hard to pull. I need to try it some more to see if I can get used to it. I've read DA is recommended over SA for home defense. 4" seems like a good barrel length, long enough for accuracy/power and short enough for close quarters.

 

re 357 -

I'd consider a 357 but don't want to pay much more for it since I feel more comfortable with 38+P for indoor home defense.

 

re new vs used -

I'm hesitant to drop $750+ on a new 686 or comparable gun, when I don't know how long I'll stick with my first purchase, and a used gun will depreciate less if I want to get rid of it later. If I went used, my preference would be to buy local and bring an experienced friend to inspect.

 

A 4" barrel will have less muzzle flash, especially with a .357. The weight of a revolver lessens the recoil, but the action of a semi-auto absorbs some of the recoil. Also, a polymer gun will most likely absorb more recoil than an all-metal one. If you are going to get a larger 4" plus revolver, then I would strongly recommend a .357 for versatility... not much more and much more versatile. If you are getting a snubby, I would personally get the .357 version as it is probably built more sturdy and would weigh more and absorb more recoil.

Update - I ended up buying a used S&W model 64 .38 revolver 4" barrel DAO from J&G Sales in Airzona, for $350 incl shipping. They had many of these for sale and reviews around the Net were positive. I used Meltzer's for the FFL transfer, they charged $50+NICS, not the cheapest but they're close to me. I'm very happy with the gun. It was advertised as VG+ condition, and arrived very clean, mechanicals look great, nice smooth trigger (feels a bit lighter than the new 686, which suits me fine) and shoots accurately.

 

Thanks again for all the input!

Update - I ended up buying a used S&W model 64 .38 revolver 4" barrel DAO from J&G Sales in Airzona, for $350 incl shipping. They had many of these for sale and reviews around the Net were positive. I used Meltzer's for the FFL transfer, they charged $50+NICS, not the cheapest but they're close to me. I'm very happy with the gun. It was advertised as VG+ condition, and arrived very clean, mechanicals look great, nice smooth trigger (feels a bit lighter than the new 686, which suits me fine) and shoots accurately.

 

Thanks again for all the input!

I have a model 64 with 3" barrel. Bought new back in '87. Still one of my favorite guns. Keep in mind that it's not rated for +P's

I have a model 64 with 3" barrel. Bought new back in '87. Still one of my favorite guns. Keep in mind that it's not rated for +P's

I thought all post-1958 .38 Smiths were OK for +P

I thought all post-1958 .38 Smiths were OK for +P

 

All post 1958 K-frame S&W's are OK with +P. Smith started using model numbers around 1957 / 1958 - if your K-frame Smith has a model number under the crane, you are OK to use +P.

 

Do not use +P ammo in any J-frame unless it is either chambered for .357 magnum, or specifically marked +P.

 

Adios,

 

Pizza Bob

All post 1958 K-frame S&W's are OK with +P. Smith started using model numbers around 1957 / 1958 - if your K-frame Smith has a model number under the crane, you are OK to use +P.

 

Do not use +P ammo in any J-frame unless it is either chambered for .357 magnum, or specifically marked +P.

 

Adios,

 

Pizza Bob

Your right, I'm wrong. I stand corrected