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Anyone use TULA Ammo 9mm? Natchez has $9.49/50

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I've shot the CCI blazer and my Ruger eats it up. Well, my Ruger seems to eat up just about anything.

 

I was curious about this Russian ammo because I've run dry of 9mm and am looking for cheap target practice ammo.

 

Berdan primers...is that bad? I don't reload at the moment so, that isn't of concern.

 

thoughts?

  • Author

well, I see PSA has it in stock 115gr FMJ Blazer Brass for $209 shipped.

 

Obviously this is cheaper than $216 shipped from Natchez :-)

 

I'm also interested in getting the requested feedback on the Russian ammo. good? bad? adequate? etc.

  • Author

I see. I regularly use CCI blazer aluminum cased ammo (9mm and .38sp) for range fun. I have higher priced defensive ammo for HD duty. For my purpses (plinking and target practice), it's been fine. I just clean my guns frequently. Just never used the berdan primed import stuff.

I've used tula in 223, and 45 acp. In my ar the 223 rounds are very in consistent. I sighted her in at 25 yards with 62 grain green tip, the tula was everywhere at 25 yards not grouping at all. Out of my 45 (glock 21 sf) it ran fine, at 25 yards I shot just as crappy, at the 10 yard line grouped well. Extremely dirty, and for the price u can get brass cased onsale for cheaper. Good luck

my para loves this cheap ammo for some reason .i am buying it again ,1000 rounds shot over 1 year cleaned at 450 then ran the rest not one bad round.funny thing if I use brass case ammo it will screw up 3 out of 5 shots.at 15 yards I get very good results

I've not fired Tula through pistol but have through my AR and just want to relay my experience to you about it and you can take it for what you will.

 

Shot it at 25 yds at Hagues and after about 55-60 rds, it jammed on me and had to get one of the guys from Hagues, Nick, to help me clear it. Nick was against using steel as he said that compared to brass, steel doesn't expand as evenly and thus was prone to more frequent issues. He also mentioned that he believed there is potential with damaging the extractor as you have steel on steel contact.

 

Now that said, he also noted that the bolt carrier group in my AR was very, very dry. Being new, I didn't realize that I was not properly oiling it after I clean it. (Note I clean all my guns after each time I go to the range and I normally put about 100 rds or more down the barrel of whatever I'm shooting). He showed me the difference in the oil I was using vs some other brands.

 

I've since changed oils and gone back to shoot the AR with the Tula last weekend and put 100rds down range without one issue. So after all that, I'm not sure if the issue was the steel or the fact that my AR was not properly lubricated. I'm inclined to think the latter but I think back to what my brother said to me once, which was "feed your guns properly".

 

So unless ammo gets even more expensive than it is now, I'll probably just stick to brass when I can. Side note, as far as accuracy goes, at 25 yds, it seemed to shoot just fine, same groups as I saw with PMC and Remington. Have to try it out further to see if that holds true though as I still have a few hundred rds of Tula to burn through...

Oh as far as Berdan vs Boxer primers. I don't think there is anything inherently "bad" about Berdan primers when it comes to shooting. Where I believe it makes a difference is with reloading, I believe Boxer primers make it easy to reload vs Berdan. So if you don't do that then I don't think you have to worry. Hopefully someone more knowledgeable will be able to corroborate that thought.

Keep in mind that some indoor ranges will not allow the use of steel ammo as there is a chance that it could spark and cause a fire. Regardless of the actual odds, it's there.

 

C

Berdan primered brass are usually not easily reloadable so most don't bother with it. In fact, I'm not sure you can even get the Berdan primers....if you want to reload, stick with brass boxer primed ammo.

Keep in mind that some indoor ranges will not allow the use of steel ammo as there is a chance that it could spark and cause a fire. Regardless of the actual odds, it's there.

 

C

 

That's steel CORE, not steel cased.

 

Some indoor ranges don't want steel/aluminum cased as they have to separate it from the brass

^^^At BH last nite and they specifically told my friend to NOT shoot S&B as they have had issues in the past.^^^

 

Just sayin.

 

C

I don't put Russian ammo into anything that is not a Russian gun. I use the Russian stuff in my AK and Mosin, but learned my lesson well after buying 1,000 rounds of .223 from Tula. The time/labor and supply cost of cleaning that dirty crap out of my AR more than offset any savings. Mid-quiality ammo does not cost that much more than the cheap Russian crap. While I am sure my Walther P99 would eat it, I would never feed it Ruussky ammo.

 

OP, just have patience and keep looking. You can usually find mid-quality brass-cased 9mm for $10 in bulk.

I have found S&B to be OK stuff. I don't shoot indoors so I cannot comment on the steel core. I don't see anything on the packaging that says steel core. Check out Sportsmans Guide and Natchez Shooting Supply.

I've used Tula in .40 in both my Glock and SA XDM with no ill-effects. I'd say maybe it is slightly dirtier than the Remmy I usually use, but no worse than Blazer loads.

 

Speaking of ordering ammo: I put an online order in with SGAmmo at 1:30pm yesterday and received a UPS pick-up confirmation email at 3:30pm. Just awesome service and pricing from those folks.

I just bought Tula 9mm last week for $9 at a gun show, I've never tried them but hopefully this weekend I will. I have always used american eagle and pmc bronze for the ..40 and the 9. I see that the blazer 9 is really dirty after only 50 rounds, that was my first time using blazer, unless I get the blazers cheap I won't be buying them in the future

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