I was out shooting with friends on Saturday and my S&W 28-2 must've eaten a squib. The bullet is still in the chamber/barrel and you can see brass in the gap between the cylinder and forcing cone. It makes me think perhaps some weak brass went along for the ride with the bullet when the round was fired.

Anyway, that is a situation that needs some resolution. Does anyone know of any decent revolver gunsmiths in the Central Jersey area? I can't/won't ship the gun in it's current condition. Thanks.

In Rahway at the Heritage Guild a gunsmith could do it easily.

Chris:

 

Can't you just take a brass rod (or hardwood, for that matter) and put it down the barrel and lightly tap the bullet back into the cylinder throat so the cylinder can be opened? Support the cylinder and tap lightly. Once you can open the cylinder, you may be able to extract the case (dependent on the length of the bullet), or you may have to continue driving it out the rear. You can use more ooomph once the cylinder is open and supported, because at that point the crane is out of the equation.

 

If you take it to a smith, that's all they'll do. That's all you can do.

 

Adios,

 

Pizza Bob

The problem is I was not the one shooting the gun at the time it happened. I cannot be 100% sure that the round ignited. Do I think it did? Yes. And the person shooting believes it did. I don't see how the brass would be extending that far forward from just a regular chambering of a bullet without ignition. I want to approach with plenty of caution, so I want to give it to someone who can handle either scenario (i.e. live round or squib). Sorry I was not more clear in my initial post. I was definitely considering using a wooden dowel if I were sure.

If you are seeing brass in the cylinder/barrel gap, there may have been a case separation. Remedy is still the same. The collar of the case that still encircles the bullet is lodged in the forcing cone. The only thing I'd caution you about is to look at the rear of the cylinder, between the case head and the recoil shield - I believe this is a 28-2, yes? That would mean a rebated cylinder, so it should be easy to spot if the primer backed-out against the recoil shield. If not, then I'd say go ahead and use the dowel. Since firing pin can't protrude past the recoil shield without the trigger in the rearward (pulled) position, you won't be driving the primer against anything that could set it off. Chances are the primer is already detonated, or you wouldn't be in the shape you are in now. Regular safety precautions apply. Wear safety goggles and do not get you head, or other appendages over the bore. I'd let the dowel be free standing and tap gently. May not take much to dislodge and push it back into the cylinder to the point it can be opened.

 

I've only had one case separation in a revolver, and fortunately it was a casehead separation - bullet went down range, empty case came out of the cylinder in two pieces.

 

Good luck. If you decide to take it to a smith and you don't want to use NJFAG (probably closest to you), there is John Robinson down at CP in Trevose/Southampton, PA. A bit of a hike and you'd probably have to leave it, but thought I'd put it out there as an alternative.

 

Adios,

 

Pizza Bob

Big Bob - You have reflected my feelings exactly and I have communicated this to Chris via PM.

 

 

troll alert!

 

reload?

 

After looking at the bullets I used, it seems as likely that I am seeing the jacket on the bullet in the cylinder gap.

Very anticlimactic....

 

Bob (pistol instructor over at Shore Shot) did exactly what you guys recommended. Tood a hardened wooden dowel and tap...tap...tap until the bullet reseated and the cylinder opened. I feel better about having seen it done once though.