I want to really see how far I can push the lightness of my revolvers trigger, using federal 150 primers, dillon xl650 press.

 

Somebody recommended to me that i should "pre-crush" my primers by setting them .008 below flush, so that when my lightened firing pin gets to it - it'll set it off.

 

Though, it doesnt look like there is anyway to set depth on my 650, has anybody had any luck with perhaps making a shim of sort ? or any other ideas?

 

Thanks,

 

Alec

i am not sure on that. but the primers usually are seated a little past flush with the bottom of the case . i dont think it is a good idea to crush the primers that could get ugly.

There is a an adjustment for primers read the manual

Precrushing primers is a bad idea. It can become the cause of unreliable ignition and possibly your rounds to go off if dropped. You need to work on your revolver technique if you feel you need springs so light they don't reliably set off the primer. No matter what revolver you're using the engineers that designed it pretty much figured what weight springs to use. Yes they added a few more pounds for reliability but going so light as it seems you have is trying to defy physics. A primer need so much force to set it off and to be safe to handle. You've made your gun dangerous (to you) and now you're trying to make your ammo dangerous. The same goes for any mods made to a semi-auto that prevent reliable ignition.

 

Millions of men and women have learned to shoot revolvers well without going to other than stock springs. The strain screw is not an adjustment. It should be screwed down tight. Use proper weight springs in your revolver, work on your technique, build up the muscles in you fingers and hands, and learn to use a stock revolver well without going to gimmicks. Then look at properly modifying your revolver.

Precrushing primers is a bad idea. It can become the cause of unreliable ignition and possibly your rounds to go off if dropped. You need to work on your revolver technique if you feel you need springs so light they don't reliably set off the primer. No matter what revolver you're using the engineers that designed it pretty much figured what weight springs to use. Yes they added a few more pounds for reliability but going so light as it seems you have is trying to defy physics. A primer need so much force to set it off and to be safe to handle. You've made your gun dangerous (to you) and now you're trying to make your ammo dangerous. The same goes for any mods made to a semi-auto that prevent reliable ignition.

 

Millions of men and women have learned to shoot revolvers well without going to other than stock springs. The strain screw is not an adjustment. It should be screwed down tight. Use proper weight springs in your revolver, work on your technique, build up the muscles in you fingers and hands, and learn to use a stock revolver well without going to gimmicks. Then look at properly modifying your revolver.

 

Millions of people modify their firearms to gain an edge in competitive shooting all the time, especially revolvers. Lighter springs, trigger jobs, action work, aftermarket parts, grinding this down, smoothing this out,etc Simply telling somebody to " Suck it up " Is not only useless, its quite ignorant.

 

This revolver is not a home defense weapon, it's a competition gun. Having a smoother lighter trigger does make the difference, Do you think all the worlds top shooters in any classification shoot stock weapons? Come on man - open your eyes.

 

Some Google search shows that setting primer depth is in fact a real thing, I simply am asking some tips to accomplish this effectively on my new press.

 

on a side note - this recommendation to do this came from a sponsored, world record holding revolver shooter, who shoots for a living.... I'll take his word for it.

There is a an adjustment for primers read the manual

 

Yes, there's adjustments for the primer system, but not for specific primer depths.

Come-on Alec, you already kick my butt with the revolver, do you really want to crush me that much more?

I believe the only press that lets you adjust for primer depth is the 1050, although I could be wrong.

I want to say I saw one in the Graf catalo that was a hand primer not sure if this would be feasible it depends I guess on how much revved shooting u do I can't get to the catalog for a few days but if you cant find it let me know I'll look

Alec, I'm not sure if you got this worked out or not or just left it as is, but take a look at the black stop on the press that the primer plunger hits at the bottom of the stroke. It's the little black part with 2 screws. On the side of this part that faced the front of the press there should be a slight gap between the press main body and this black part. measure the gap with a feeler gage and when you found the right one, go up .002 in thickness. loosen the screws a little cut off a small section of the feeler gage and place it between the black part and the main body and tighten the screws.

 

This will seat the primers .002 deeper for you.

 

Keep in mind that while primers need to take a hit and they can take a little extra pressing force without going off, there is always a chance of a mishap and putting more force on the them would increase a chance of a mishap so please if you do this understand that the results may not be worth the risk.

Be aware that seating primer too deep can make them less sensitive and cause hang fires. The anvil can break the primer pellet if it is pressed too far into the primer cup. A properly seated primer will press against the anvil against the pellet but not break it.