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Lead Fouling

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Not sure if this is the correct forum for this but thought maybe the competition guys reload wadcutter. I want to start shooting bullseye so I would like to shoot wadcutters in my 45. I've heard that they can lead to bore fouling. Any info would be appreciated. I hope to start reloading soon.

 

TIA

 

Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk 2

Any lead bullet can cause fouling. There is an art to matching lead hardness, lube, and velocity that will cause less leading.

At the velocities you would be driving the bullets for bullseye competition, leading is not a worry. H&G 68 bullets (200 gr LSWC) are among the most popular for this endeavor. Have fun.

 

Adios,

 

PIzza Bob

Joe,

 

I reload 200gr LSWC's from the Missouri Bullet Co., over 4.0 grains of Bullseye powder for my 1911 and they work great. I usually have no to very little lead fouling. If I do get the occasional very minor amount of fouling, I shoot it out with a few rounds of jacketed ammo and then do a regular cleaning of the pistol. Works great for me.

 

http://www.missourib...ary=13=

We carry a plated 200gr swc if you'd like to try something that does not carry a risk of leading.

 

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk

Joe,

 

One other consideration - if this is a stock 1911, chances are it will have a hardball spring in it. Before you start shooting lightly loaded LSWC's it would be a good idea to change out the recoil spring to something more suitable for the loads you are using.

 

Adios,

 

Pizza Bob

  • Author

Thanks for all the helpful info.

 

Bob...I bought the gun from a member here but have never shot it. If I remember correctly he had SA do a few things to it but it's a basic GI model. Is the spring easy to swap out? Just wondering so I can switch it out between low brass and high brass, or is it cumbersome?

 

Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk 2

Is the spring easy to swap out? Just wondering so I can switch it out between low brass and high brass,

 

????????????? - not sure what you mean by that. No, it's easy - just breakdown the gun like you were going to clean it and change out the spring in the slide. It has been a loooonnnnng time, but IIRC a stock .45 hardball spring is appx 19 lbs. and I think you want about a 14 lbs. spring for light bullseye LSWC's. Research that before you make any changes, but for some reason those numbers stick with me. Of course I am severely afflicted with CRS, so check first.

 

Adios,

 

Pizza Bob

Joe,

 

One other consideration - if this is a stock 1911, chances are it will have a hardball spring in it. Before you start shooting lightly loaded LSWC's it would be a good idea to change out the recoil spring to something more suitable for the loads you are using.

 

Adios,

 

Pizza Bob

 

Bob,

 

This is interesting... I had never heard of this before. I shoot my bullseye loads through my S&W 1911 in its stock configuration and have never had an issue.

Tony...

 

From the Wolff Springs website...

 

LOAD-RATED RECOIL SPRINGS are precision springs designed to exact load ratings. The load rating of these springs is determined with the slide in full recoil position. Load-rated recoil springs are designed to offer maximum flexibility for the shooter by allowing adjustment of the recoil function to individual requirements. Factors such as ammunition loadings, individual pistol characteristics, compensators and individual shooting styles all influence the recoil function. Optimum recoil and pistol functioning can usually be obtained by changing the recoil spring rating to meet these variables. Due to these and others variables, W.C. Wolff Company can not make specific recommendations regarding which recoil spring is correct for a particular combination or situation. We do recommend that recoil springs lighter than the factory rating not be used with full power ammunition loads - damage to the pistol may occur. An extra power firing pin spring, or striker spring where appropriate, is supplied with all Wolff recoil springs, unless noted otherwise.

You can use a Chore Boy which is a copper scrubbing pad, cut it up and wrap it around a nylon brush. It's cheaper than the Lewis Lead Remover and one box will last a life time. Don't worry about lead build up. It cleans up with little effort. Copper fouling is far worse.

 

BTW - be sure to clean your barrel before switching from copper to lead and vice versa. The copper fouling will cause massive lead fouling. Copper bullets will "iron" the lead into the bore of the barrel and make it far more difficult to clean.

 

PS: This post should be moved to the Reloading Forum.

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