Nope, not a dupe post

Got my new 686 out today, ran fine.

Brought it home and wiped it down, and now the cylinder is very difficult to lock back into the frame.

Ejector rod is tight, there's no junk under the ejector "star"

Took the yoke and cylinder off, got everything nice and clean, helped very little.

When the cylinder is open, and the muzzle is pointed down, the cylinder spins freely.

When the muzzle is pointed up, the cylinder makes contact with the frame, and won't spin barely at all,.

Anyone got an easy fix to try before I ship her out?

This'll be my second lemon pistol this year, I'm extremely frustrated.

PM me for my address of you'd like to send tissues to dry my tears, lol

Wow, 2 issues with the 686 in 1 day.

 

Sorry, not really much help as I do not own a 686 but I was thinking of getting a 686 SSR with one of my permits but may have to re-think this.

You say it ran fine at the range and you noticed this problem before or after cleaning it.

 

When the cylinder is pointed up it should contact the part of the frame that sticks out preventing it from falling off the crane. Pointed up the cylinder won't spin freely but it will turn easily. Is there some back and forth motion of the cylinder when it is open? How much? This is normal and looking at a K frame that is broken in but still very tight, this back and forth slop is about 1/16" (eyeballing it). This has nothing to do with end shake as that would be back and forth movement when the cylinder is locked in the frame.

 

You say the cylinder is very hard to push back into the frame. Is that with the cylinder pointed up or down? It shouldn't make a difference. If you hold back the cylinder release while trying to close the cylinder is it easier. If so I would look for some crap in the internal lockwork which may interfere with the end of the ejector rod locking up.

 

Have you tried a good blast of Gunscrubber or BrakeKleen in the lockwork?

 

Another possibility is the angled part of the recoil shield that the spring loaded end of the ejector rod rides on is not cut deep enough. This is a factory fix. You could do it yourself but if you go too far that part of the recoil shield gets sharp enough to cut your fingers and then calls for a new frame.. This was the issue on a friends Model 60 and he sent it back to S&W. They cut it too deep and it was pretty sharp. He sent it back a second time, S&W destroyed the ruined gun and made him another (which they checked out welL) with the same serial number.

Thanks Griz,

Since this occurred AFTER I cleaned it, it seems to point toward dumb-assery on my part, I suspect!

I'll give it the once over later today, and let you know what's what.

Thanks again, very much for the reply!

Thanks Griz,

Since this occurred AFTER I cleaned it, it seems to point toward dumb-assery on my part, I suspect!

I'll give it the once over later today, and let you know what's what.

Thanks again, very much for the reply!

 

Let's take a look at this...If I have any of the facts wrong please correct me.

 

With the muzzle tipped down it functions

The cylinder has forward and aft play when empty along the axis of the ejector rod

The cylinder if I am correct does not have recessed rim rebates(rear of cylinder is flat faced)

If you put empty / or loaded cartridges in the chamber does the revolver function?

 

If all this is correct the cylinder rachett i binding on the pawl when the cylinder is held muzzle up from the cylinder slipping back.

 

It's the new Smith design....

is the ejector rod fighting with the "ball" on the end?

i don't know what it is called but it's spring loaded to keep the ejector rod in place on the barrel.

did you grease it tight or something?

try pushing that "ball" in with a pen tip or something to see if it moves freely

That's one on my list too, LOL... Let me know.

Lol, if it is a taurus, it's an expensive, convincing clone!

So I popped out the cylinder and removed the ejector, cleaned everything again, scrubbed out and lubed here again as well:

Cleaned the "star" again:

Now she closes easily, and locks up tight, all is well-I'm feeling kind of dumb not figuring out that the cylinder makes contact with the frame to keep it from FALLING OUT! (DUH!)

Did notice this though, normal wear mark?

 

So who had the correct diagnosis here?

Did notice this though, normal wear mark?

 

Yes

Bob's correct, normal wear.