Sometimes the bolt does not fully close. Sometimes it is easy to push it the last 1/2" or so, sometimes it needs a good whack!

 

I am trying to determine what is wrong with it. I flipped it upside down and can use a small screwdriver to push down on part of the bolt locking mechanism (for lack of a better term). One side goes down, the other side goes up. When I push down on the tab it closes immediately and it is very easy to push down.

 

I have well over 1000 rounds through this gun so I would think it is well broken-in by now. I tried to lube it, did not matter. Something is hanging-up in there, just not sure what. Since this is so similar to the rest of the Saigas I thought someone here may be able to help.

 

Going to post this over on the Saiga-12 forums too.

I think this happens to some rifle style saigas too. There was a fix around here at one point.

I just bought a brand new Saiga 12 and have yet to take it out bec. its a Christmas surprise for my Dad... I am very worried about it after I read the reports on the saiga forum..."Vodka Specials" basically beng built by unskilled or unsober workers which either need a LOOOOT of working on/ breaking in to function, or ones which just WILL NOT fix/will not break in.

 

Or worse ,ones that will break in but they will not shoot value / Bulk Packs / bird shiot /target-game loads etc. Or even buck shot, only will sell fully powered high status Slugs... I know that it's not designed to be a skeet shooting toy gun and shoot only bulk packs but you want it to shoot cheap stuff sometimesa and hope it complies but you just don['t know... I know my plan is as follows-

 

After it gets "opened" on Christmas, its going to be Cleaned throughly and completely and thoroughly some more/ --- Taken to the range and absolutely shot with several (as as $$$ permits) boxes of 00 Buck ... then at least 1 or 2 100rd 7 1/2 Federal Bulk Pack/Value load boxes... then taken home, Completely cleaned thoroughly again... And taken back to the range, more repetions of 00 Buck (at least a few 15 round boxes) and then 1 or 2 100'rd Federal value pack bulk buy ... then taken home , cleaned up and oiled up and hopefully is ready for action somewhat.

I wouldn't worry. I took mine out of the box and immediately shot 300 rounds of #7 birdshot without a single misfeed or any other problem.

I wouldn't worry. I took mine out of the box and immediately shot 300 rounds of #7 birdshot without a single misfeed or any other problem.

 

Extremely good to know. I bought mine at CMO but I'm pretty positive it was totally Brand New In Box and was unsealed on top of the counter in front of me.. Good to know.

I wouldn't worry. I took mine out of the box and immediately shot 300 rounds of #7 birdshot without a single misfeed or any other problem.

 

Exactly! Just make sure to rotate the gas plug to the correct setting for the type of load you are using. I put an MD Arms gas plug in mine before I ever fired it.

most of the time those guns don't shoot low powered loads out of the box because they are simply not designed to... they are designed to shoot high powered ammo.. and most do without a problem...

getting the gun to properly cycle light ammo can be really difficult...

 

as far as closing all the way... if the gun fully cycles and it is a pretty heavy load it should be working? I polished my bolt, and never really see an issue with it fully locking up.... is this after you shoot? and the gun cycles? or the initial chambering on a loaded mag?

vladtepes is right. Saiga 12's were built to run full power buck and slug loads. In response to the US market, the new VEPR 12 will run low brass target loads reliably right of the box and predictably, it is more recoil heavy when shooting full power or magnum loads. It has 5 gas ports to the Saiga 12's 3-4 ports.

most of the time those guns don't shoot low powered loads out of the box because they are simply not designed to... they are designed to shoot high powered ammo.. and most do without a problem...

getting the gun to properly cycle light ammo can be really difficult...

 

as far as closing all the way... if the gun fully cycles and it is a pretty heavy load it should be working? I polished my bolt, and never really see an issue with it fully locking up.... is this after you shoot? and the gun cycles? or the initial chambering on a loaded mag?

 

My only issue is when chambering the first round. I really think it is from riding the bolt.

 

I can get the bolt to NOT close fully with no mag/shells in the gun by riding it also. I can simply push it the last inch pretty easily (most of the time).

 

I never, ever have issues with the gun cycling whimpy loads (that is all I ever shoot with this gun).

 

I am thinking of getting a magwell for it to make reloads easier and then MAYBE I will learn to let go of the bolt from its most rearward position and let the spring do it's thing and close the bolt for me!

 

Alec has used the gun with me on the same day and he never had any issues so I know it is the way I am doing things.

 

A pistol grip would make reloads easier also, but we have to leave this gun neutered because of NJ.................. One 10 round mag and 15 round drum would be all I need for Knockdown Steel with this gun, but once again, being in NJ, it's a no-go.

its an AK dont ride the bolt at all.. let that thing slam home..lol

 

with that said.. a full S12 mag is pretty tight.. try it loading the mag one under..

its an AK dont ride the bolt at all.. let that thing slam home..lol

 

with that said.. a full S12 mag is pretty tight.. try it loading the mag one under..

I had mine sitting in the safe with a full mag and empty chamber/closed Bolt and the top round (S&B #4 Buck) was actually deformed out of round from pressing against the underside of the bolt..Lesson learned

I've found a way around this. I use shells that have a roll crimp and I fill the cavity with surfboard epoxy (which sets hard and brittle). To help it along, I've also cut a + in the epoxy plug with a dremel cuttig disc. You'll only need to load the top 3 rounds with these and fill up the rest with regular shells.

 

I had mine sitting in the safe with a full mag and empty chamber/closed Bolt and the top round (S&B #4 Buck) was actually deformed out of round from pressing against the underside of the bolt..Lesson learned

far simpler solution....

 

fully loaded mag... bolt hold open.... pick it up charge the gun and you are ready to go

far simpler solution....

 

fully loaded mag... bolt hold open.... pick it up charge the gun and you are ready to go

 

Bolt hold open...is that the notched safety lever

Bolt hold open...is that the notched safety lever

 

saigas come with a literal bolt hold open.. there is a little ear in front of the trigger... if you push it up with the bolt back.. the bold will literally hold open till charged..

 

saigas come with a literal bolt hold open.. there is a little ear in front of the trigger... if you push it up with the bolt back.. the bold will literally hold open till charged..

 

Ah..learn something new today. Thanks

Ah..learn something new today. Thanks

 

yup.. that will allow you to store the gun on a full mag... with allowing you to easily rack it when you want..

Yes, that little tab is fine when cleaning and storing the gun, but it is useless during a competition when trying to swap mags. I have seen people put a notch in the safety lever and make that into a bolt hold open, much easier to get-to during competition.

Yes, that little tab is fine when cleaning and storing the gun, but it is useless during a competition when trying to swap mags. I have seen people put a notch in the safety lever and make that into a bolt hold open, much easier to get-to during competition.

 

Don't they make a notched lever

Don't they make a notched lever

 

yeah but you can do your own in 5 minutes with a dremel...

I store mine with a round in the pipe which may not be comfortable to some.

 

far simpler solution....

 

fully loaded mag... bolt hold open.... pick it up charge the gun and you are ready to go

Yeah - from my conversations with Rosie (Smokin .50), he informed me that most semi auto shotguns do not cycle light target loads well. You have to use heavier loads (higher dram). I found this out with my 11-87. Federal target loads wouldn't cycle. I bought some 3 1/4 dram "hunting" loads - cycles fine. Most light target loads are 2 3/4 dram'ish. You should go with at least 3 dram for semis.

 

If you're confused about dram measurements, look at the velocity - for 2 3/4" shells, look for ones above 1200FPS muzzle velocity.