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S&W 686 Polishing Issue

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While I love my Smitty wheelguns, this 686 is starting to be a pain in the neck with its stainless steel finish. It came in about 90% condition from the dealer, and with a little tweaking and elbow grease it's looking much better. But even after working some Mother's in several times (after each range session and after wipedown with Otis cleaner) I find the finish just doesn't have that gleam that, say, my Model 37 S&W has on its finish.

 

Any ideas on another polish, or any suggestions on how I can get to see my ugly face in its finish would be appreciated.

 

Scott In Bayonne

Flitz worked ok. Simichrome worked better on my satin finish 686. I am polishing it up slowly. I like shiny... a lot.

 

C

now you made me look at mine. I too use Flitz and/or mother's mag & aluminum polish and I think the gun itself looks pretty good, but def not chrome-like. The hammer & trigger being off-color may take away a little from the rest of the gun, but wouldn't that be the same on all the SS smiths? I also feel lead removal cloth works easier than polish on the front of the cylinder to remove the burn & lead. -Michael

I noticed the same on my used piece. The cylinder needs more attention. I haven't tried anything other than cleaner yet, but plan to pick up some Flitz soon.

Go to your favorite auto parts store and pick up a jar of blue magic. Same stuff as Flitz at a fraction of the price. Use a microfiber chamois rag and rub until the rag turns black. I've been using this on my 686 and it works beautifully.

  • Author

Thanks a million, guys. Some good suggestions there that I plan to use over the next day or two.

 

Regards,

 

Scott In Bayonne

I polished mine up with a buffing pad on the dremel and stainless steel polish, yes hit a good marine store and pick up some stainless polish..

 

My daughter and i shot mine tonight so it is going to need a cleaning..

Go to your favorite auto parts store and pick up a jar of blue magic. Same stuff as Flitz at a fraction of the price. Use a microfiber chamois rag and rub until the rag turns black. I've been using this on my 686 and it works beautifully.

Nice! I've got that on a shelf for my weekend car. I'll try it this weekend after "Maggie's" bath. ;-)

Thanks a million, guys. Some good suggestions there that I plan to use over the next day or two.

 

Regards,

 

Scott In Bayonne

 

Once you get it polished up, a light coat of regular old paste wax will keep it from getting ginged up too badly..oh, and Lead-Out Cloths, along with Shooters Choice lead remover gel will be your friend...one of the things going through he Academy with a stainless revolver taught me. Our Armorer whe I got hired taught me the paste wax trick. Our 870's were almost 15 years old when i got hired, and they looked new. EVERY time one came in, it was cleaned and a light coat of wax went on it.

Buy a 357 in Nickel. :)

 

Don't use too much abrasive material on the cylinder face. You don't want to be opening up the cylinder/forcing cone gap more than you would by just shooting the gun. Basically you are just simulating accelerated wear when you polish that.

  • Author

Got the Blue Magic and Lead Out cloths in, and will be giving them a try. Thanks, guys.

 

Sent from my Kindle Fire using Tapatalk 2

 

 

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