Hello All,

I'm having a problem with my S&W 625-4 and decided to ask the local experts here and on Enos in hopes that someone might be able to point me in the right direction.

 

The action will sometimes become very stiff (well over 15lbs) during live fire, and only live fire. It's otherwise perfect unloaded or while using snap caps. The normal DA trigger pull is about 5 lbs and was "Carmonized by Mike Carmoney" by the guns previous owner. It has a bobbed hammer, reduced pull spring kit and polished internals. It doesn't happen on every shot and the only way to fix it, is to open the cylinder and advance it to the next chamber.

 

Here's what I've checked so far with no luck in diagnosing the problem.

 

The extractor rod... Nice and tight, not backing out at all.

The ammo... Tried several soft reloads, Some with new star line brass. No visible primer creep or flow.

Moon clips... Used several different types/thicknesses including the Hearthco's. Didn't make a difference

Timing... The cylinder stop is off just a hair on 3 or the 6 positions and can only be noticed if the trigger is pulled very slowly. During a normal pull the cylinder will lock just before hammer drops. The hand and cylinder ratchet don't appear to have excessive wear.

Dirt, and wear on internals... The entire frame has been taken apart, cleaned and shows no visual issues.

 

So, does anyone out there have a suggestion?

At this point, any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Nick

Measure your endshake.

Nick:

 

Did you check for end play of the cylinder? Also see if the face of the cylinder is square. If there is excessive end play and cylinder face isn't square, the cylinder could be binding on the forcing cone. May only happen with live ammo as this would move the cylinder the max amount. Just guessing - beyond this I got nothing. Since you know the smith that worked your gun, you may be best to contact him.

 

Adios,

 

Pizza Bob

I'll check that out. Thanks guys.

I've seen it mentioned before to check the cylinder to forcing cone gap on both sides, it isn't always the same. If I remember correctly that situation can be caused by a bent crane. By the way, all the loads you did for me worked 100% in my 626 and my 1911.

I've seen it mentioned before to check the cylinder to forcing cone gap on both sides, it isn't always the same. If I remember correctly that situation can be caused by a bent crane. By the way, all the loads you did for me worked 100% in my 626 and my 1911.

 

Crane: Good thought Mike. You did mean 625 didn't you? Either that or this must be an exceedingly rare S&W.

Ha! Good eye Bob, my typing skillz are not very good! Yes, 625.

I ordered some cylinder end shake bearings and will give them a try this week.

Hopefully it's not the crane.

check that your primers are seated all the way.

check that your primers are seated all the way.

 

I've been seating those bitches pretty deep.

Even made sure they didn't flow...

 

 

 

 

 

That's all vagina jokes i got...

i think i heard once that revolvers were reliable? lol sorry nick

You sure your crimp is ok and the bullets are not jumping? Also double check the clips mine binds once in a blue moon in a shotty clip I just toss it

i think i heard once that revolvers were reliable? lol sorry nick

 

The last couple months I have been hearing alot of click, click instead of bang, bang from the revo guys. Think I'll stick to 1911's they seem to be much more reliable, even my 1911 22 goes bang more often then those revos.

 

 

The last couple months I have been hearing alot of click, click instead of bang, bang from the revo guys. Think I'll stick to 1911's they seem to be much more reliable, even my 1911 22 goes bang more often then those revos.

 

Now you're just making shit up Steven.

 

Here is my impression of your gsg

 

 

Bang bang double feed , clear , bang , double feed jam, clear , bang , click , rack, click

check that your primers are seated all the way.

Thanks for all your help guys.

 

I checked the end shake and it had too much play. It was over .008.

Hopefully the bearing will do the trick.

I'll try to post some before and after pics once they come in.

Thanks for all your help guys.

 

I checked the end shake and it had too much play. It was over .008.

Hopefully the bearing will do the trick.

I'll try to post some before and after pics once they come in.

 

Thought so. Once the play opens up beyond spec, it gets larger faster because of the longer "stroke" of the hammering with each round fired.

Looks like it already had bearings inserted. 4x .004's and 1x .002.

 

 

I took out the old ones and added 6 of the new .004's. Now the gap is .005 to .008.

 

Just need to go try it out now.

Well get on over to the indoor range and try it out, don't leave us waiting here the suspense is killing me.

Now you're just making shit up Steven.

 

Here is my impression of your gsg

 

 

Bang bang double feed , clear , bang , double feed jam, clear , bang , click , rack, click

 

Damn.......... Hey, I have the same .22 bottom-feeder, I know that drill!

 

Nick, take your moon clips and put them on a piece of glass and make sure they are straight. I had to toss several of my .45 clips and many of my .40 clips, they were bent.

yeh, mike has a habit of bending clips... even mine

 

Good deal. Hope she runs true for you now. Make it a good habit to check the endshake on the wheels you work hard.

Yeah, I'm not always the most-gentle person with things.......... Sorry pal.

 

Friends say I can break anvils........

Well get on over to the indoor range and try it out, don't leave us waiting here the suspense is killing me.

 

I would but I'm exhausted.

This little piss machine is kicking my ass.

All fixed boys.

 

Took it to the indoor range and she's smooth as silk.

Thank you all for the great advice.

You saved this idiot months of frustration.

Good job Nick!

 

 

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