I've been reloading 45 acp on my Hornady LNL AP using Hornady dies. I have done so without using a crimping die. I have one but I don't have any station left to put it on.

 

For those that reload using Hornady dies, have you ever found the need to take the extra step to crimp your reloads. I was under the impression that the bullet seating die of Hornady gives a sufficient amount of crimping already. Am I right?

 

Let me know.

 

Thanks!

 

PS - so far my loads work and feed well on my 45 acp guns.

The bullet seating die will crimp if adjusted properly -- I just picked up a set for 9mm and the seating die definitely crimps when adjusted properly

 

Read the directions with the seating die to adjust -- Basically your just trying to iron out the bell put on the end by the expander die -- I use very little crimp on 45 acp

Rey, I need my crimping die in 45ACP because I reload for revolver too. I find that I don't need a good crimp in semi-autos because they are a sealed chamber. In my revolver, I get unburnt powder if I don't use a good crimp. I think it is because gas escapes from the cylinder-forcing cone gap. For me, crimping is my 4th stage on my Dillon 550B, so I always do it. If I were loading for bulleye shooting, I would probably skip it. I don't think there is a down side to doing it except the possible extra time if you don't have a progressive press.

Thanks for the input, guys! Thanks!!! I just wanted to make sure that I'm doing it right.

I think that you need to make a distinction in the above posts as to whether you are talking about a taper crimp or a roll crimp. Rimless cartridges to be used in semi-autos should always be taper crimped as, theoretically, the round headspaces on the case mouth (point of fact - they usually headspace off the extractor). Rimmed cartridges, for use in revolvers, should be roll crimped. Cartridges that use large amounts of slower burning powders (read that: magnums) should be heavily roll crimped.

 

Lunker, I never found it necessary to roll crimp .45 ACP ammo that I used in my model 25. However, I had some loads for bowling pins that used a 250 gr LSWC, that I loaded in auto rim cases, and those I roll crimped.

 

Adios,

 

Pizza Bob

I think that you need to make a distinction in the above posts as to whether you are talking about a taper crimp or a roll crimp. Rimless cartridges to be used in semi-autos should always be taper crimped as, theoretically, the round headspaces on the case mouth (point of fact - they usually headspace off the extractor). Rimmed cartridges, for use in revolvers, should be roll crimped. Cartridges that use large amounts of slower burning powders (read that: magnums) should be heavily roll crimped.

 

Lunker, I never found it necessary to roll crimp .45 ACP ammo that I used in my model 25. However, I had some loads for bowling pins that used a 250 gr LSWC, that I loaded in auto rim cases, and those I roll crimped.

 

Adios,

 

Pizza Bob

 

Thanks Bob, as usual I should have gone into more detail. My setup uses a taper crimp for 45ACP. When that taper crimp is too light, I get unburnt powder in my revolver when I use slower powders.

Thanks Pizza Bob!. I use my 45 acp's strictly for semi-autos.

 

I just checked Hornady for proper crimping with just the bullet seating die. It appears that gradually screwing in the seating die body, you can apply a more aggressive crimp to the finished round.

Thanks Pizza Bob!. I use my 45 acp's strictly for semi-autos.

 

I just checked Hornady for proper crimping with just the bullet seating die. It appears that gradually screwing in the seating die body, you can apply a more aggressive crimp to the finished round.

 

Be careful - you can overcrimp the bullet and it will actually result in the bullet being loose in the case.

no real case guage

 

I do use an extra 1911 barrel to check my reloads