Reading training material is like reading this forum. Confusing. But I will ask anyway.

 

CASE LUBING: Must I always lube? I read that carbide dies don't require case lubing. Yes I have heard of better safe than sorry. But anyway...

 

CRIMPING: What types get crimped? All? Only if there is a bullet crimp ring?

 

Danke.

It all comes down to what you are reloading. All bottleneck cases get lubed prior to resize. Rifle always gets lubed. Crimping comes down to personal preference and what you are shooting. If it is a semi auto it gets crimped 100% of the time in my book. On bolt action rifles it all depends what i am loading for and some rifles like heavy crimp while others dont like crimp.

In doing some research to get into rifle I found, as mentioned above that rifle always gets lubed and to "not waste your money" on carbide dies for rifle.

 

All my pistol dies are carbide though, since they don't require lube.

straight wall pistol doesn't need lube, but some bottleneck pistol does. My 30 Mauser requires lube since it is a bottleneck. Even with carbide dies it will stick without lube. It comes down to case profile.

In doing some research to get into rifle I found, as mentioned above that rifle always gets lubed and to "not waste your money" on carbide dies for rifle.

 

All my pistol dies are carbide though, since they don't require lube.

 

Carbide are still worth it in some brands. Just have no illusions about them allowing the use of no live or aerosol lubes on rifle casings. You'll rip the case rim off if you do.

I've been reloading for about 25 years, so I'll speak to my experiences. For straight wall handgun cartridges no lube is required if you are using carbide dies. I do clean the dies thoroughly after about 1000 reloads. I've never had a case stick in a carbide resizing die and I have probably reloaded well over 40-50 thousand rounds over the years. As far as crimp is concerned, most revolvers require a roll crimp. The die box has the instructions for achieving a roll crimp. It is important to know that a roll crimp can only be performed on bullets with a cannelure and the roll crimp must be inside the cannelure. For straight wall pistol rounds, a taper crimp is needed. Again, follow the instructions that came with the dies (if you don't have the instructions, let me know and I'll send you instructions on how to properly set the dies).

For rifle and all bottle neck handgun cartridges, you MUST lube the cases. I have tried many lubes but have been using Hornady One-Shot for the past 5 or so thousand rifle cartridges and if has performed perfectly. One step I see missing is checking the overall case length AFTER resizing. Please ensure that all cases, whether they are handgun or rifle, are trimmed to proper SAAMI specs after resizing. In terms of crimp for rifle, it really comes down to the bullet choice. If a bullet has a cannelure, you can roll crimp only in the cannelure. If the bullet doesn't have a cannelure, just set the bullet to proper overall length. The case neck tension will hold the bullet.

I hope this helps, and if you have any questions, let me know.

Currently I reload in a progressive 223. 9mm. 45acp

 

All carbide dies and all lubed

 

I just throw a hand full of cases in a coffee can Spray in Hot Shot once or twice and shake them up...Repeat

Currently I reload in a progressive 223. 9mm. 45acp

 

All carbide dies and all lubed

 

I just throw a hand full of cases in a coffee can Spray in Hot Shot once or twice and shake them up...Repeat

 

This. Lube it all with one shot. It makes reloading much easier.

Another option for lube is PAM cooking spray if you tumble after resizing. I read about this on the CMP boards awhile back and have done about 3,000 rds with it of various calibers and it works great. A hell of a lot cheaper than the Hornady spray.

Thanks to all. I do appreciate your taking the time.

 

I will march on and make some cartridges!!