I just ordered some reloading stuff.. and plan to reload both 40 and 556... and 308 down the road..

 

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/280965/lee-carbide-3-die-set-40-s-and-w-10mm-auto?cm_cat=CheckoutConfirm&cm_pla=ProductDescrip

 

I ordered these to do 40.. and have read that I do NOT need a crimp die.. and the 3 die set will work fine..

can anyone verify this?

From my understanding, the bullet seater in the 3 die set also incorporates a crimper. You should be fine.

 

Keep in mind if you plan on shooting the 5.56 in an AR...you may want to consider crimping those as well. The recoil may unseat the bullets in a mag. I've heard the Lee FCD is a good one.

I have not been able to cross the 556 bridge yet because dies are not available across the board.. just trying to get a start on this.. lol

Hey, I just started myself. I ended up settling for a mix of dies.

 

I started helping my dad when I was a young'n, but just recently bought all the stuff myself. I finally decided to pull the trigger on a press because they seem to be drying up as well. I'm glad I did though....I think I found a great load for my 7mm-08. 7/16" group out of a 700 Mountain contour barrel at 100 yards. To me, < 0.5 MOA is superb for that gun.

 

I'm going to load 10 more of that load (43.5 grains of Varget behind a 120 gr Nosler Ballistic Tip) and confirm at the range this weekend. I haven't even got to the 4064 (120 gr NBT) loads or the the Varget and 4350 (140 gr NBT) yet.

Crimp dies arent needed because the seating die does do a basic crimp, however the crimp die it self gives a tighter seal per say around the projectile. I have it for my 9mm die set but not my .40

Three die set is fine it will crimp and seat read directions

That's the exact set I use.

 

You'll read complaints online from people that can't get the crimp right with the combination seater/crimper but I firmly believe those people didn't or can't follow directions.

Vlad

 

The 3 die set will work, however, I like using the Lee factory crimp die to taper crimp. I separate the seat & crimp operation. The FCD allows you to fine tune the crimp and does a full length size on the round. I have loaded thousands of 9mm, 40S&W, and 45ACP using this method and have had no feed problems due to round size.

 

Maybe it's not needed depending on the dies you're using, but I like knowing that there is a final size check and the completed round is to factory specs. I use all previously fired brass with no problems.

 

I'm also using the FCD in .223 rounds and have been making some awesome shooting match grade ammo.

As long as the bullet seating die is marked "taper" you will be able to crimp the bullet. Note, however, that the 40 and all straight wall cases, never use a roll crimp as they headspace on the case mouth. A slight taper crimp is needed and should be equal to, or .001 less than the diameter measurement where the base of the bullet sits in the case. In order to taper crimp, you need to insert the case into the shell holder and run it all the way up in the press. Next screw the die down until you feel it touch the case mouth, then back it up at least one full turn. Tighten the die in the press and then seat your bullet to the desired OAL. Now you can adjust for taper crimp. Back up the bullet seating stem at least 2 or more full turns, loosen the locking ring and back that up as well. Now with the case all the way up, slowly screw the entire die body down until you feel firm pressure. Lower the case and turn another 1/4 to 1/2 turn. Lock it down, reset your bullet seating stem and you are done. If you need clarification on any step, let me know.

The seater die will not provide an effective crimp even for a taper. For the .223 I believe the set comes with a sizing die, seating die and crimp die. I used to use the Lee Factory Crimp Dies after seating and they were fine. However the RCBS seating crimp dies do an amazing job in one stroke. Since I only reload single stage it removes 25% of the work. This is just my preference.

 

Also, for the rifle dies for .223 I prefer the small base resizer dies from RCBS as well.

Vlad

 

The 3 die set will work, however, I like using the Lee factory crimp die to taper crimp. I separate the seat & crimp operation. The FCD allows you to fine tune the crimp and does a full length size on the round. I have loaded thousands of 9mm, 40S&W, and 45ACP using this method and have had no feed problems due to round size.

 

Maybe it's not needed depending on the dies you're using, but I like knowing that there is a final size check and the completed round is to factory specs. I use all previously fired brass with no problems.

 

I'm also using the FCD in .223 rounds and have been making some awesome shooting match grade ammo.

This

You only need to crimp enough to remove the bell. Neck tension holds the bullet, not crimp.

If you are going to use lead bullets, I would seat and crimp seperately. It will scrap lead if you don't. Also I would not use a FCD with lead, it can undersize the bullet and cause accuracy and leading issues

 

A EGW U-die is very useful if you are using range brass

Ant,

 

With lee dies which do a really good job resizing the case, I do not use it for 40, however I do use it for 9mm since it is a tapered case.

 

The factory crimp die gives you the second resize once the case is loaded. Never had an issue through any guns with rounds that were done with the factory crimp die.

only using FMJ no lead bullets..

 

thanks for the insight I am sure I will have 1,000 more questions when the stuff starts to show up at my house..

 

thank you!

Vlad, I have a set of Lee .223 dies i'll sell you. If you're interested PM me. It's the three die set, which includes the sizing/deprime, bullet seating, and factory crimp die.

Vlad, I have a set of Lee .223 dies i'll sell you. If you're interested PM me. It's the three die set, which includes the sizing/deprime, bullet seating, and factory crimp die.

 

unfortunate.. but a day too late.. already on the way from Cabellas.. thanks anyway!