You should not be using new brass for reloads, too expensive. Get a batch of once fired brass off the net for $60-$80/1000. If primers are crimped in that involves another step to take out the ridge on the primer pocket (a must). 55FMJ heads should be around for under $100, primers $35/M, and powder for 1000 rounds, 4 one pound bottles give or take about $110. So, about $315 or  32/round from scratch.  Take off the brass .25/round. If you are reloading for lowering cost then you will have to bulk up your purchases, 8lb tubs of powder, 6M case heads, 5M case primers, etc.  Cost is only one aspect of  reloading, another is for building the round that shoots best with your rifle or just making up plinking rounds. 

 

My 223 reloads are mild, to get the most out of the brass, and to get to the target just fast enough to be accurate.  If building hunting loads, that's a different story.    

When i did my numbers it came out to about .80c per gound but thats with new brass

what do you use to remove old primers? is it possible to use hornady lock n loa plant to deprim or beter off getting a single stage with depriming setup? 

what do you use to remove old primers? what do you use to remove old primers? is it possible to use hornady lock n loa plant to deprim or beter off getting a single stage with depriming setup? 

Some sizing dies are also decapping dies.  I run a Dillon 1050 and the first station is a Lee universal decapping die rather than size and decap at the same time as my sizing die is also a trim die that automatically trims brass to length if it needs it.

does anyone run a set up like this? wondering if i missed anything?

 

 

 

 

 

You'll need Dillon's sizing die for the RT1200.  It's a special double ended die.  I'd then recommend a decapping die rather than using the sizing die that comes with that four die set.

You'll need Dillon's sizing die for the RT1200.  It's a special double ended die.  I'd then recommend a decapping die rather than using the sizing die that comes with that four die set.

 

the rcbs lube die #1 is decapping unit. probably don't need the whole set of 4, but just in case

 

http://www.dillonprecision.com/#/content/p/9/pid/25244/catid/8/Rapid_Trim_1500___1200_B_Size_Trim_Die

Old brass i figure about .20 cents or a tad more. Yeah is it worth it. Also add lube and wear and tear. Maybe .22. I just did 350 on my lnl progressive first time. About 100 plus an hour. Its fun. Where you save alot is if your doing bullseye distance shooting. You have to work up a load to suit your rifle.

im just getting in to reloading and have million and one  questions lol

Chrism. If your around central jersey let me know. Ill show you the set up on a lnl press for 223. I just started a few months ago. But once you get a few under your belt its not so confusing. Im loading 223 308 9 45 and 38. Ive been saving brass for awhile.

the rcbs lube die #1 is decapping unit. probably don't need the whole set of 4, but just in case

 

http://www.dillonprecision.com/#/content/p/9/pid/25244/catid/8/Rapid_Trim_1500___1200_B_Size_Trim_Die

Also, the 1200 is a good unit but the 1500 is more robust/powerful and gives you the flexibility of being able to convert 5.56 brass to 300BLK should you every desire to.  I'd also highly recommend making your own case lube with liquid lanolin and OTC isopropyl alcohol.  I get 4oz of lanolin and 32oz of alcohol for about $15 and that makes 36oz of case lube.  Throw it in a $0.75 spray bottle and you've got your own One Shot lube that is a whole lot cheaper and very quick/easy to apply.  You could then eliminate the lube die and swap in a Lee universal which cheaper: http://www.midwayusa.com/product/136543/lee-universal-depriming-and-decapping-die

Holy cow, a LnL is $1200?!  A 650, which I think is comparable to a LnL in terms of production is under $600 retail.  $1200 is 1050 territory.

A lnl with auto bullet feeder and all that crap is 1200. A basic lnl. I got mine at cabelas for 389$

Midwest. Question. Why would one use a decapping die as compared to a decapping resizing die. ( im new at this).

Midwest. Question. Why would one use a decapping die as compared to a decapping resizing die. ( im new at this).

 

Personally, I would use a Lee universal decapping die regardless of setup because of the design.  The pins rarely break or bend and when they do, they are about $5 to replace.  For my setup, I cannot use a decapping die that also sizes because I trim on the press which requires a specific sizing die.

Holy cow, a LnL is $1200?!  A 650, which I think is comparable to a LnL in terms of production is under $600 retail.  $1200 is 1050 territory.

 

That's the ammo plant. It includes the case feeder and bullet feeder. 

Also, the 1200 is a good unit but the 1500 is more robust/powerful and gives you the flexibility of being able to convert 5.56 brass to 300BLK should you every desire to.  I'd also highly recommend making your own case lube with liquid lanolin and OTC isopropyl alcohol.  I get 4oz of lanolin and 32oz of alcohol for about $15 and that makes 36oz of case lube.  Throw it in a $0.75 spray bottle and you've got your own One Shot lube that is a whole lot cheaper and very quick/easy to apply.  You could then eliminate the lube die and swap in a Lee universal which cheaper: http://www.midwayusa.com/product/136543/lee-universal-depriming-and-decapping-die

 

what are other choices for accurate resizing?

Chrism. If your around central jersey let me know. Ill show you the set up on a lnl press for 223. I just started a few months ago. But once you get a few under your belt its not so confusing. Im loading 223 308 9 45 and 38. Ive been saving brass for awhile.

 thank you that would be great 

i am also considering single stage press

what dies do you guys use? for second stage reloading? (after u resize and deprime)

Depriming: Lee

Sizing (.223 and .308): Dillon

Sizing (6.5C): Hornady

Sizing (handgun): Lee

Powder drop: Dillon

Bullet seating (all but 6.5C): Redding Competition w/ built in micrometer

Bullet seating (6.5C): Hornady

Crimp: Lee Factory Crimp

crimp is that nessary? doest your bullet seating crimps?

I don't seat and crimp at the same time. I prefer the crimp that the FCD applies over others. And you definitely want to crimp if you're loading for a semi auto. Neck tension alone is okay for manually operated actions.

I don't seat and crimp at the same time. I prefer the crimp that the FCD applies over others. And you definitely want to crimp if you're loading for a semi auto. Neck tension alone is okay for manually operated actions.

ok im feeling like im getting somewhere as far as dies, thats whats in my cart would that be it or i need more for hornady lnl

 

stage 1 prep work

 

1. Lee Universal Decapping and Depriming Die

2. Lee collet neck sizer die

3. Dillon's rapid trim 1200 with rapid trim 1200 die and rt 1200 replacement blade

 

stage 2 loading

 

    belive priming and powder drop  die comes with LnL? or need that as well?

1. Redding Competition Seater Die

2. Lee Precision Factory Crimp Die

 

or get the Lee Ultimate Die Set?

 

BTW thank you evryone contributing to my project!!!!

Personally, I'd dump the collet neck sizing die, move the RT1200 to that position, then use an expander mandrel after it.  I've found that the mandrel not only trues the neck but also cleans the freshly trimmed edge of the neck.  I don't chamfer or deburr my brass after it gets trimmed because the mandrel does a pretty good job of cleaning the brass up for me.  You'll need the die body as well.

k thank you, everything else good? no priming and powder drop  die need it?

Midwest. Question. Why would one use a decapping die as compared to a decapping resizing die. ( im new at this).

 

You would use a decapping die if you are going to knock out the primers before cleaning -- You will scratch your brass and dies if you try and use a sizing die to knock out the primers on dirty brass

 

How do you plan on cleaning your brass????