I'm in the market for a S&W revolver, and I'm trying to decide if I should go new (or newer) or pay the premium for an older model that was pre-internal lock. Are the internal locks on S&W really so bad that I should avoid them? I'm just looking for a reliable range gun and a third string self-defense piece (if i exhaust both clips for my Walther and 1911 and still haven't solved the problem).

 

I'm also aware that this question could drag the MIM parts question into the mix. I have no position on the subject.

Don't sweat the lock.  It is easy to remove.  Go with whatever you like and if it has a lock, take it out.

Don't sweat the lock.  It is easy to remove.  Go with whatever you like and if it has a lock, take it out.

 

What he said.

 

AFAIK, the lock has only been really problematic on lightweight, high recoiling guns.

The lock on my 629 (44mag w/6" barrel) seized, rendering it useless until fixed. It took a smith a few minutes to undo. No S&W lock guns for me. I feel better about Ruger and Taurus locks. Their activation is perpendicular to recoil forces instead of in line with them.

Lunker do you have any idea what percentage of locks have failed? Just curious.

 

 

Who is John Galt?

I am so excited I figured out how to change my signature.

They can be removed in under 90 seconds, I wouldnt put off an entire brand of firearms because of one small detail. It'll probably never fail in 10 lifetimes, but I remove them regardless. 

Lunker do you have any idea what percentage of locks have failed?

Sorry Joe, I don't. I always figured the internet amplified the good and the bad, so I figured that buying a big framed revolver would mean I was OK (supposedly light framed revolvers in magnum chamberings are more susceptible). My first range session the lock partially engaged and I couldn't get it all the way locked or unlocked. Andy at Shore Shot fixed it for me. I do remember him mentioning that he had done it to other people's guns as well. I know I'm a sample size of one, but...

They can be removed in under 90 seconds, I wouldnt put off an entire brand of firearms because of one small detail. It'll probably never fail in 10 lifetimes, but I remove them regardless.

I agree with this

But if you remove it, wouldn't that leave a fairly noticeable hole right above the cylinder release?

But if you remove it, wouldn't that leave a fairly noticeable hole right above the cylinder release?

 

 

No, you can leave the " key " plug in, but remove the flag that would contact the hammer locking it in place.

And sw forums a guy sells plugs for the hole

And sw forums a guy sells plugs for the hole

 

This too, you can remove the key plug if you want, there are a few guys there that sell plugs you can insert to match the body of the frame... Personally though, I just leave the key plug in. Doesn't bother me that much. 

BTW, socom.... Post # 1911   ... saweet!

Here. I created a quick video demonstrating how easy it is to remove the lock on my factory 625 I just picked up.

 

 

BTW, socom.... Post # 1911 ... saweet!

lol almost there

I just watched the video to remove the two internal lock pieces.

 

I was going to do this, but that big gap next to the trigger that occurs when the part is removed makes the possibility of foreign objects getting into the gun action and causing problems to be more likely than the lock engaging by itself.  I will trust the lock.

 

Blue1

Big gap??

That gap might be a 16th wide... not to much is getting in there.

 

 

If you think that is a problem, then you'll really hate my bobbed hammers on my smith revolvers. 

 

Yes, while it is " open to the elements " .... what could possible get inside? Unless your rolling around in pea gravel, then sand, then a tub of glue... I doubt you'll have a problem.

 

I've shot probably 10,000 rounds with a bobbed hammer like that with zero ill effects. 

 

 

 

even if you did pop a small rock or something inside, in all likelyness it'd just work its way downward and hang out in the hollow area under the grips near the main spring. 

 

Big gap??

That gap might be a 16th wide... not to much is getting in there.

 

 

If you think that is a problem, then you'll really hate my bobbed hammers on my smith revolvers. 

 

Yes, while it is " open to the elements " .... what could possible get inside? Unless your rolling around in pea gravel, then sand, then a tub of glue... I doubt you'll have a problem.

 

I've shot probably 10,000 rounds with a bobbed hammer like that with zero ill effects. 

 

 

 

even if you did pop a small rock or something inside, in all likelyness it'd just work its way downward and hang out in the hollow area under the grips near the main spring. 

 

 

I hear ya...but after decades of car and motorcycle performance mods (I'm a relative newcomer to firearms), I've learned that things are made by the factory a certain way for a reason, and mods require a lot of thought prior to carrying them out.

 

You seem confortable with your mod, that's fine, I wasn't trying to second-guess anyone.

 

Can the piece that takes up that space be left in while removing the other piece shown in the video to make the lock inoperable but still have that space filled?

 

Blue1

 

 

 

I hear ya...but after decades of car and motorcycle performance mods (I'm a relative newcomer to firearms), I've learned that things are made by the factory a certain way for a reason, and mods require a lot of thought prior to carrying them out.

 

You seem confortable with your mod, that's fine, I wasn't trying to second-guess anyone.

 

Can the piece that takes up that space be left in while removing the other piece shown in the video to make the lock inoperable but still have that space filled?

 

Blue1

 

 

 

Blue, the other piece in the video is actually a seperate " lawyer indicated " safety, called a hammer block. Completely separate to the internal lock & flag. I just choose to remove all the safeties in my revolvers. I should of better elaborated. 

 

As far as leaving the flag in, and permanently disabling the key lock.. I'm not sure, never looked into it or thought about it, since it's pretty common practice to just remove them. If the gap bothers you that much, like you said - just leave it in. 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RVPYgohVCNM

 

 

for those of us that cant do this blindfolded, this is one I used. dont mind the music....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RVPYgohVCNM

 

 

for those of us that cant do this blindfolded, this is one I used. dont mind the music....

that one has alot of good tips if you are using a J-frame with a coil main spring instead of the traditional leaf spring.... Personally I don't see the point of taking the bolt release apart to gently remove the lock flag.... I'm throwing the damn thing away, just a few wiggle pulls and prys and it pops out with little effort. 

Thank you all for the great advice!

Big gap??

That gap might be a 16th wide... not to much is getting in there.

 

 

If you think that is a problem, then you'll really hate my bobbed hammers on my smith revolvers.

 

Yes, while it is " open to the elements " .... what could possible get inside? Unless your rolling around in pea gravel, then sand, then a tub of glue... I doubt you'll have a problem.

 

 

You seem pretty convincing, your dog doesn't seem so sure though!

IMHO, older S&W's are better than the new stuff anyway. Much like Winchesters, pre-64 stuff is more desirable. Is a 1968 M94 junk? No. but a 1963 is "Better" and "more desirable". 

Every generation thinks that the previous generation's stuff was better. If that was the case, we would have regressed to using sticks and rocks by now. JMHO.

 

Adios,

 

Pizza Bob

You seem pretty convincing, your dog doesn't seem so sure though!

Dog, what dog? Oh, that little thing looking at Alec? I have a cat bigger than that!

 

I have two S&W's with locks, a 617 (whopping .22LR) and a 625 (.45ACP like Alecs). I never had a problem with either gun, but I rarely shoot factory .45ACP anyway, just whimpy stuff!