just a quick head scratcher i couldn't find an answer to anywhere. when installing a longer handguard (not free floating) would the handguard cap be in the same place its installed now and can i use the same handguard thats on the gun now? my current and new handguard are your typical quad rails

when you install a non free float handguard the cap is what holds the front.. so generally to use the cap you have to get a handguard that is the right length... meaning a rifle length rail will not fit a carbine rifle with the caps in the carbine position...

 

when people run longer rails like that they are typically free float.. and float over the front gas block and all that.. 

What Vlad said...

 

when you install a non free float handguard the cap is what holds the front.. so generally to use the cap you have to get a handguard that is the right length... meaning a rifle length rail will not fit a carbine rifle with the caps in the carbine position...

 

when people run longer rails like that they are typically free float.. and float over the front gas block and all that.. 

thanks! decided to go free float and purchased a diamondhead vrs handguard with a yhm gas block. ordered the wrench and punch kit too so gonna try and do this myself. hopefully I don't screw this up! lol

 

edit: turns out the handguard and block will be here before the tools  anyone know a central jersey guy that does installs? yes I'm the impatience instant gratification type lol

do it yourself.... 

Patience. Wait for the right tools, do it yourself, learn about your weapon, enjoy the gratifying results.

 

Since you have to replace the factory barrel nut, be careful when reinstalling the new one. Read up on the type of grease to use and the proper torque technique and the min-max torque.

 

After you're done, when you go shoot it for the first time, use factory brass ammo, not cheap steel and make sure the chamber and everything else is clean. That way if you have gas issues, the ammo and dirt is not to blame.

Before we even get to the installation part - do you have a pinned muzzle device. If you do can you post the maximum outside diameter. Most barrel nuts will not fit past a muzzle device.

Before we even get to the installation part - do you have a pinned muzzle device. If you do can you post the maximum outside diameter. Most barrel nuts will not fit past a muzzle device.

 

nope no muzzle device as of yet.

 

Patience. Wait for the right tools, do it yourself, learn about your weapon, enjoy the gratifying results.

 

Since you have to replace the factory barrel nut, be careful when reinstalling the new one. Read up on the type of grease to use and the proper torque technique and the min-max torque.

 

After you're done, when you go shoot it for the first time, use factory brass ammo, not cheap steel and make sure the chamber and everything else is clean. That way if you have gas issues, the ammo and dirt is not to blame.

 

thx, yeah the reason i bought the tools was because i wanted to learn more about my gun. the only part that i'm nervous about is the removal of the barrel nut and the gas block. i've been reading a lot of peoples horror stories on not being able to get the nut off and i'm not 100% sure about installation of the gas block and lining everything up correctly. as far as the new barrel nut diamondhead has their own proprietary nut that is put on using a regular wrench. still trying to figure out how to use a torque wrench in this case but from what I hear people that have this state that there is no need to torque because you don't need to worry about timing the gas tube with this setup. not sure what that meants exactly but this is what the nut looks like...

The Diamondhead install looks very straight froward. As far as their proprietary barrel nut, yes, the gas tube will actually sit on top of the nut. You still want to make sure to apply whatever torque spec they recommend so that things don't loosen up on you. I assume you would still apply molly grease to the threads before sliding it through. Sliding the gas tube back in shouldn't be a problem as long the new nut ends up with one of the flat sides at the 12 o clock position.

 

Removing the FSB should also be pretty straight forward. The pins are tapered and only come out one direction, I believe left to right. Look at each side of the pins and hit the side with the smaller of the two. I believe Smith & Wesson are the only ones that do it the opposite way. When you hammer them through, use a larger punch than the diameter of the pin to start them off, then switch to the size that will allow you to push them through. When you go smack it, make sure you are laying the FSB in a nice sturdy concrete floor or the like. If you try hammering the pins through while laying the FSB on top of a rug or padded surface, that surface will absorb most of the impact and will make it more difficult for you.

 

In case you have problems removing the existing barrel nut and have to use a breaker bar, make sure you secure the upper in a proper vice block otherwise the excessive torque you're applying could throw other areas out of alignment. Some people use a clamshell type block, some use a pin type block. if I were doing it myself, I would use something that would grab onto the barrel itself rather than the upper. You can also use something like this: http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/rifle-tools/barrel-tools/ar-15-m16-308-ar-barrel-extension-torque-tools-prod27452.aspx. Worse case scenario you can apply heat to it or maybe throw it in the freezer overnight.

 

I see your other post asking for help with this. I'd be happy to help but I don't have an upper vice or barrel nut wrench. If you can get them, feel free to come up north and I'll give you a hand.

thx, i was able to get the delta ring, barrel nut and front sights off. tomorrow will be the new barrel nut and hopefully the gas block install (if it comes in the mail) any idea on how to torque a nut like this?

thx, i was able to get the delta ring, barrel nut and front sights off. tomorrow will be the new barrel nut and hopefully the gas block install (if it comes in the mail) any idea on how to torque a nut like this?

 

The only way I can imagine you getting an accurate torque measurement is if you were to use a properly fit crows foot wrench and a torque wrench.

To get an accurate one sure ... But ... The dark truth is that lots of working rifles are built without it. Hand tighten, the wrench tighten 2 gas tube slots over or so. In fact the YHM handguards used to come with that as directions.

 

The reality is that a barrel wrench is like $15 and you can get a tongue wrench at harbor freight for like $15 more. Not the best but it will get you in the ball park.