Ok folks, here is my dilemma. When I first got my 336 the action was pretty rough. After watching a few youtube videos I tried smoothing out the action by polishing the lever, locking block, feed ramp, bolt and extractor groove, I also replaced the stock 2 piece extractor with a one piece extractor. The action got a lot smoother. After about 100 rounds the lever became hard to lower initially after about 10 rounds, as if something inside was binding. I noticed a few loose screws (in the gun not in my head), after titening the screws with some blue loktite everything was back to normal. I took it to the range this past sunday and after 3 rounds it started to bind up again and no loose screws this time. It feels as if the recoil is causing the bolt to bind up against the locking block. I also noticed that the lever has excesive side to side play. I am still able to cycle the gun but disengaging the lever after firing is extremely difficult. Any suggestions?

Marlin's ejector is two-piece. The extractor is one-piece. I assume you replaced Marlin's ejector with the one-piece unit from Wild West Guns?

 

The Marlin action is pretty simple to figure out. Is the two-piece firing pin working as designed? Are the retaining pins intact on the bolt or are they coming loose?

 

 

 

 

Firing pin is working, nothing is loose.

I just noticed this:

 

 

but disengaging the lever after firing is extremely difficult

 

 

The first thing the lever does is drop the locking bar in its raceway, then continued movement of the lever forward retracts the bolt rearward. Does the locking block (bolt) move freely in its raceway? Maybe that's where it's binding up?

The hard part is unlocking the lever, once unlocked it moves easy

Then I would look at the relationship of the locking block in its confine and how smoothly it travels, and how it locks into the rear of the bolt and unlocks. The first thing the lever does is when moved forward (down) is pull down the locking block, which drops the two-piece firing pin in the bolt as it's pulled from the bolt's recess. Once out of the way, the lever continues to move and moves the bolt rearward. 

 

Try reassembling w/o the locking block and check to see it the bolt opens and closes easily through motion of the lever.

 

Or, with everything removed, you can insert the bolt home, push the locking block up to lock the bolt then pull on the block to see if it moves freely so the bolt can be removed. 

Try asking over at the marlin owners forum.

I think I found the problem. I decided to put a spent case I the chamber and was able the recreate the problem. It appears that the fact that the case is tight in the chamber and the lever has side to side play causes it to lock up if there is slight sideways pressure on the lever. Empty, the gun cycle smooth, new bullet the gun cycles smooth, fired case and it locks up. I checked the case and there are no visible signs of damage indicating chamber issues. It looks like the side to side slack in the lever is the problem. How can this be fixed without buying a new lever?

All Marlin levers I've felt have some "side to side" play in them when open.

 

I would have a gunsmith check the chamber of that rifle. If the case is expanding too much it may explain the "hard to open after firing" situation. It's not hard to open with an unfired round or no round in the chamber, correct?

 

 

Question: is your Marlin an older New Haven, CT gun or a newer Remlin? 

Its a remlin, the lever has some side to side motion when closed as well. If I pay attention when im cycling and make sure that I dont put any sideways pressure on the lever, it cycles fine. Atleast thats what I noticed today.

Send it back to Marlin. No point in living with a defective gun.

 

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

 

 

Im not sending it back to them again. Last time I sent it to get the barrel indexed I had to remove all addons including the front xs sight which is glued on with black max, that was a major pita. I just ordered a new lever from midway, we will see if that fixes it. If that doesnt fix it then I will send it to remington.

You don't need to take the stuff off. Send it to Williams Gunsite they are an authorized warrantee repair gunsmith they will fix it under warrantee with all your stuff in place. Believe me you want to get this fixed. I had a Savage 99 lever action lock up with a live round in the chamber while on a hunt. Pulled the trigger it went click and wouldnt open. At that point you are screwed. Was lucky to find a local gunsmith to fix the problem where I was in NY so i didnt have to bring a loaded rifle back to NJ, driving with a gun jammed shut with live chambered round and dropped hammer on dirt roads was interesting. Glad i didnt end up with a hole punched in the roof of the car. Problems like that need to be fixed or else you can get in a real jam. You will find yourself tossing it over the wall at the range some sunday evening to unjam it.

 

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

 

 

The new lever is coming in tomorrow, if that doesnt fix the problem I will send it in.

Well new lever came in and I sent it back. For some reason the plunger hole was a few mm too low and the plunger wouldn't lock. I did notice on my original lever were it was rubbing against the inside of the frame. Any ideas on how that could be rectified? I know, you will tell me to send it in but I am leaving that as the last resort.

The lever makes contact in only six areas: the trigger safety block, the locking bolt, the plunger, the finger lever screw, the carrier, and the bolt. (There is a raceway milled inside the receiver to provide clearance for the finger lever's tip so it moves freely while manipulating the bolt.) Other than contact points, nothing should be rubbing.

You do have a conundrum. Ship your Remlin back to Remington and have them exorcise the gremlins from that fine rifle.

You do have a conundrum. Ship your Remlin back to Remington and have them exorcise the gRemlins from that fine rifle.

 

funny